any good n/a builds??
- Thread starter wchico15
- Start date
Here is one that I found. It is a MKII, but with a 7MGE. I'm sure there are plenty more. Just a search away.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45761&highlight=7mge+build
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45761&highlight=7mge+build
I currently have a 7m-ge thread, I think you'll enjoy!
Pics on page 1 and 6 (I think)
Link in Signature
Pics on page 1 and 6 (I think)
Link in Signature
wchico15;879002 said:
Sorry, typo....fixed.
But, here is the one that Defiant 7M has going.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46
wchico15;879042 said:
Thank you for subscribing to my thread!!!!
I update it once a week with cool stuff all the time, hope you enjoy it.
I don't know your level of experience so I apologize for treating you like you are a noob. I can offer you this advice on your build.
First step in any build is deciding what type of motor you are going to build. Is it going to be a stock daily driver or a mid power street racer or a all out track runner. The more power you crank out of the motor the shorter the life-span of the motor. And the more you increase the power of the motor the less the reliability of the motor. Two words will determine your build: Acceptable risks. What risks are you willing to take to achieve your goal. You know that with more power comes more work and money to keep the motor running. So what are you willing to do to keep the motor running.
With any build have the machine work done. Have the head and block checked out it's cheaper than having to rebuild your motor the second time due to defects in the head or block. Also have the crank and piston assemblies checked out too. The machinist will become a very important source of information for the build. He will be able to tell you what type of parts you will need for the build.
7m's love to spin bearings because of low oil. The oil pump will suck the oil pan dry under high RPM's. I personally increased the amount of oil from 4 quarts to 6 quarts. Replace your oil pressure gauge. The one in the dash is inaccurate. Use a cooper oil pressure line under the hood instead of the cheap plastic hose that comes with the gauge. But don't throw it away it will be needed later. Get a cooper fitting to join the two hoses together so you can put the new oil pressure gauge anywhere inside the car.
Also 7M's love to blow head gaskets. Mainly because the torque specs for the head bolts were wrong. We can only hope the man responsible for so many BHG's commited ritual suicide on the plant floor and rewrote the new torque specs in his own blood before dying. I've read they should be torqued anywhere between 65 to 75 Ft lbs. I have mine at 70.
And always have a spare core motor because you might need it for parts or to rebuild later on.
Damn I've become a long winded SOB in my old age....
First step in any build is deciding what type of motor you are going to build. Is it going to be a stock daily driver or a mid power street racer or a all out track runner. The more power you crank out of the motor the shorter the life-span of the motor. And the more you increase the power of the motor the less the reliability of the motor. Two words will determine your build: Acceptable risks. What risks are you willing to take to achieve your goal. You know that with more power comes more work and money to keep the motor running. So what are you willing to do to keep the motor running.
With any build have the machine work done. Have the head and block checked out it's cheaper than having to rebuild your motor the second time due to defects in the head or block. Also have the crank and piston assemblies checked out too. The machinist will become a very important source of information for the build. He will be able to tell you what type of parts you will need for the build.
7m's love to spin bearings because of low oil. The oil pump will suck the oil pan dry under high RPM's. I personally increased the amount of oil from 4 quarts to 6 quarts. Replace your oil pressure gauge. The one in the dash is inaccurate. Use a cooper oil pressure line under the hood instead of the cheap plastic hose that comes with the gauge. But don't throw it away it will be needed later. Get a cooper fitting to join the two hoses together so you can put the new oil pressure gauge anywhere inside the car.
Also 7M's love to blow head gaskets. Mainly because the torque specs for the head bolts were wrong. We can only hope the man responsible for so many BHG's commited ritual suicide on the plant floor and rewrote the new torque specs in his own blood before dying. I've read they should be torqued anywhere between 65 to 75 Ft lbs. I have mine at 70.
And always have a spare core motor because you might need it for parts or to rebuild later on.
Damn I've become a long winded SOB in my old age....
labrat469;880754 said:
Very good and useful information. I would listen to this guy, along with many of the others here at Supramania.com
Still going:biglaugh: I quess you would call my build extreme...no it is extreme! Updates very soon.Ma70.Ent;878945 said:Defiant 7M has one. He actually posted recently too in a thread called "200 RWHP", but who knows what's up with him
Man when I started my son was eleven and I was married!!! :aigo: Time just flew by. We had some assembly issues but everything is looking good now.Ma70.Ent;881575 said:
very useful info. i plan on just building the motor to be reliable.something that will still go for another 10 yrs. im not looking to make a whole lot of power out of it. i'll just do some minor upgrades like k&n intake, new exhaust, maybe in the future new headers. but as far as a racing motor definitly not. i'll be daily driving it everyday. school,work,anywhere. i have a "BHG job" thread that i started but i ran into some family issues and financial issues so i had to put everything on hold but now im back. im looking to spend as little money as possible but at the same time do things the right way and if that means i have to sacrifice more money then expected then i'll do it,cuz in the long run it will pay off. thanks again everyone.
p.s. lets try not to change the topic of the thread. thanks.
p.s. lets try not to change the topic of the thread. thanks.
Clearance issues. The rods have a helleva swing. With my stroke it pulls the piston so far down you see a portion of the skirt!AJ'S 88NA;881721 said:
wchico15;881882 said:
Man I hear you. Just get the basic items. But get coated bearings and a good quality ring set and gaskets. If you get extra money splurge but don't go broke for the sake of hp. Basic details will pay big in the end. A very clean rebuild will last a lot longer than 10 years. I have spare stuff if you need something and I have it your welcome to it.