Another No Heat Question...

[dunnbeetle]

So I live in northern Minnesota and it's been getting to -20F here almost every night. Usually I dont drive my supra in the winter but the 2 other cars I have are broken down right now....go figure.

Anyway, I have searched the forums and haven't really found a good answer to my question besides it possibly being the climate control amplifier.

I have barely a little heat coming out when the car is warmed up after the thermostat is opened. I tried bypassing the vsv like I found in another thread but that still didnt help.

The hose that goes to the heater core is hot, along with the one that comes out of the heater core. I dont think there is anything wrong with the heater core.

If it was the CC amplifier, is there anyway to fix it besides replacing the CC...or any other suggestions on what could be wrong would greatly be appreciated. thanksl.

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

If you're getting heat to the heater core, then the next thing would be to check airflow through the heater core. My car has no problem keeping up with a Canadian winter, even if this has been fairly mild this year. I've always left my climate control on "auto" year round, as this seems to work well.

You may have an issue with the climate control system not routing the air through the heater core, or the heater core may be plugged.

I presume that you've tried manually selecting the heat vent and high fan?

 

[Piratetip]

Confirm your heater valve is actuating.
The lines can be hot (heat soak from the engine) but still have no flow.

If the valve is opening, your core could be plugged or you have another part in the system that is bad.

 

[dunnbeetle]

Confirm your heater valve is actuating.
The lines can be hot (heat soak from the engine) but still have no flow.

If the valve is opening, your core could be plugged or you have another part in the system that is bad.

Is this the one that is opperated by vaccume?

 

[Piratetip]

This part.
Shaeff posted these pics.

 

[dunnbeetle]

Confirm your heater valve is actuating.
The lines can be hot (heat soak from the engine) but still have no flow.

If the valve is opening, your core could be plugged or you have another part in the system that is bad.

If you're getting heat to the heater core, then the next thing would be to check airflow through the heater core. My car has no problem keeping up with a Canadian winter, even if this has been fairly mild this year. I've always left my climate control on "auto" year round, as this seems to work well.

You may have an issue with the climate control system not routing the air through the heater core, or the heater core may be plugged.

I presume that you've tried manually selecting the heat vent and high fan?

If the heater core is plugged...what choices do I have to fix it besides taking it out, because I know that is a PITA.

 

[dunnbeetle]

Yeah I've seen that....what would happen if I just bypassed that?

 

[Piratetip]

I have bypassed it before while waiting for the replacement valve.

It just constanty flows hot coolant into the heater core, tolerable in the winter.
But it could get quite hot in the cab in warmer climates.

 

[dunnbeetle]

Lol I usually have heat on in the summer too, thanks for all the answers....Imma go check it out....it's fricken freezing out and I dont have a heated garage, 15 degrees right now and its the warmest day in the last 2 weeks.

 

[Piratetip]

I hear ya, its been 0 F and -15 windchill here for awhile.

 

[dunnbeetle]

Ya, I think it is the valve....it takes alot for me to be able to move it...there is no way that vaccume could pull that open...in the progress of bypassing it now, but i need one more damn hose clamp, and my nipples are so cold they might fall off.

 

[Piratetip]

Are you getting vacuum to the diaphragm?
The valve is difficult to open by hand, vacuum easily pulls it open.

Do you have a hand vacuum pump to test it just to make sure?

 

[isnms]

check my sig for
◊ Bypass Heater VSV ◊

 

[dunnbeetle]

check my sig for
◊ Bypass Heater VSV ◊

Ya I already did this....but the 1st time i tried it by hand it was extremely hard, and kinda popped open, so maybe it was just stuck...anyway I just bypassed it and took it for a drive....way more heat now! I'm sure theres still a ton of air in there that I need to bleed out....which brings up something else:

when I start the car for the first time after its been sitting a while...it takes forever for the thermostat to open up, usually doesn't open until I start to drive it....and when it does it waits until about 210 degrees. after that it works perfectly and sits at about 180 degrees(pretty sure its a 180 temp.) Know what could be causing it to do that? Thanks again for all the help guys...already saved me from freezing my ass off everyday.

 

[dunnbeetle]

ya i think there is just a ton of air in there now

 

[dulobast25]

ya i think there is just a ton of air in there now

do you think you still need a heater control valve?

 

[dunnbeetle]

no, when i put the vacume line on and take it off when the car is running it moves just fine now

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

Hmmm... Heater valve stuck, sounds like the thermostat is sticking, too.

When did you flush your coolant last? If you used tap water, how bad is your local water supply for hard water?

Though not always possible, I try to use distilled water in the cooling system. Distilled water will actually remove some of that crap, 'cause it'll dissolve into the water.

If it is hard water, it'll be messing up your radiator, too.

 

[dunnbeetle]

I just flushed my coolant about a month ago bc I had too much water in the mix and it ended up as slush, so i took the whole radiator out, stuck it in the tub with warm water and ran water thru it a few times....I've changed the thermostat about 500 times now, i've blown 3 headgaskets now lol....last time it blew I rebuilt the whole engine. that was last spring, and I think thats the last time the thermostat was changed. My water here is really hard actually so that may be it.