Alternator Question, Need help fast!

Ds650rida

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Mar 19, 2007
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Before i started having charging problems with my soarer 1jz, i drove my car about 40 miles and all of a sudden the alternator is not charging and the motor is running off the battery. Is it possible since the soarer alternator puts out a lot more volts than the 7m one (iirc) that i just blew a fuse since there is a few fuseable links in the system?
 

Ds650rida

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Mar 19, 2007
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here is what i mean:

p933320_1.jpg
 

c_ronius

1jz 4Runner
Jan 2, 2007
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I assume that's one of the digrams I gave you... Of the whole damn set of diagrams this was the only discrepancy I had.
According to the diagram...
-Connector E -pin1 should be "IG" on the alternator with a B-Y wire.
-Connector E -pin3 should be "S" on the alternator with a W wire.

When I wired it up, I sent the W wire to the 7.5A alt fuse (always hot), and sent the B-Y wire to the 7.5A engine fuse (switched). Like the diagram says.

Everything seemed to start, run and drive fine... But the battery would die if I let it sit for about a week. As long as I drove it daily it would be fine and hold good voltage/charge the battery. In my quest to find the leak, I took off the alternator plug and found the colors were backwards between pins 1 and 3. I took off the alt to verify the connector pinnings were the same, and they were. So those 2 wires were wired backwards. I switched them and everything ran great for about 30miles, then the alt quit charging. I think having it wired wrong killed the regulator. I bought a new one and all is good now for about 2k miles, no more battery leak.

On my harness, Toyota mixed up those 2 wires... I never once removed the plug from the alt during my install cause I assumed it was right, as per the diagram.

Double check and make sure those 3 alternator wires go where they should.
 

tlo86

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Jul 24, 2005
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hrm ive had funky charging problems too. when i drive im at 13v and sometimes it gets as low as 12.... is that the same as what you were experiencing? i havent had a dead battery yet but... i figured it was just the battery as its an optima blemish
 

c_ronius

1jz 4Runner
Jan 2, 2007
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Shouldn't get as low as 13V, especially not below that. If it's running that low it sounds like the alternator/regulator may be bad. Even with a weak battery, the alt should overcome that while it's running and show good voltage. Check the 3 regulator wires for continuity or shorts (or like in my case above, just wired backwards). The alt needs those wires to sense whether to pump more or less juice.

I'm no electrical expert, those that are feel free to correct/confirm my info.

BTW, in case it's not obvious... The diagram above is for the Soarer, not Supra... I don't know what the colors or plug pinouts are for the jza70 (looks like you could find out pretty quick from the links in your sig though).
 

tlo86

Ninja Editor 'Since 05'
Jul 24, 2005
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still didnt do the ammeter and voltmeter test, its one of the few things i didnt replace on my swap so i might be thinking its time to
 

c_ronius

1jz 4Runner
Jan 2, 2007
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Tampa, FL
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Ds650rida;941193 said:
so you suggest changing the wires in the plug? or just sending the wires in the correct direction?


All I'm saying is that you need to verify that the 3 regulator wires go where they should, color aside. Check for continuity from the alternator to the appropriate fuses. You put a Soarer set in a Supra, maybe you mixed up a couple of those wires when splicing into the Supra?

In my case I switched the wires at the ecu side of my harness, I don't like cutting the factory harness after it enters the engine.