alignment issues

[Bri7man]

When I first bought my car the inside of both my front tires were showing threads and the outside were good.

I had my back tires rotated to the front today which were very good and new tires on the back followed by an alignment and balance at Big O Tires.

On a side note I think I need to take the car back because it slowly veers to the right but otherwise straighter than it's ever been, but I can't align my steering wheel straight. I spent an hour today driving straight on each side of this road(both sides were pretty damn level, it was a very long parking lot) trying to find the perfect notch on the steering wheel but it's seems impossible.(I tried doing this before the alignment with the same luck)

I'll drive halfway down the road perfectly straight, stop, remove the nut, align straight, and continue, it holds straight down the rest of this side of the road.
I'll then turn around down the opp side of this road, the wheel points at the Rear view mirror. I'll then turn around and drive down the same side of the road I aligned it straight with(on the same adjustment) and now thats pointing to the left corner of the windshield!!!!

I must have stopped and adjusted it at least 30 times and sometimes its straight one way, then coming back one side and then returning the same side.

I did this over and over and could not find a median. Steering wheel is SO sloppy.. It takes like 1 and a half turns just to turn sharply.

Maybe because the steering is so sloppy and old the degree of one notch is so vast it cannot be fine tuned based on the road conditions?

I dunno, I was kind of hoping this would be a 10 min job...

 

[Bri7man]

I don't think I like Big O Tires. I mean they specifically do suspension and tire maintenance but the place seems to be overrun by overconfident mexicans now. Not to be racist but that's how it is. They are all Mexican, it seems kind of racist, this specific shop used to be more diverse and more organized.

The manager is an exception he is cool, I got to hear him yelling at the guy who worked on my car for taking too long of a lunch break and not following procedure on some other car.....greaaaaat.

He didn't even tell me what he thought and how it went. I asked and he just looked at me blanky and agreed with what I said with his foot out the shop door.... This other dude Bill who used to work there always told me what he did, what I should do and what looks worn.

Don't they have machines that align the car perfectly along with the steering? What kind of shop can I trust to do a proper alignment? It seems like Big O Tires, Americas Tire has lost their standards?(for those of you in the U.S.)

 

[IJ.]

There's a HELL of a lot more involded in aligning a Mk3 than just which way the steering wheel points....

Take it somewhere with a 4 wheel rack and have it done properly but keep in mind if anything is worn it will never be right.

 

[Bri7man]

Okay well the wheel alignment cost me $70 so I think I'll go back and keep bothering them until they can actually tell me what is wrong.

I need to get my moneys worth first. I'll be calling around for a 4 wheel rack also.

Thanks Ian

 

[Poodles]

$70 is way low for a 4 wheel alignment on a fully adjustable car. Try double that for a good shop.

Though in your case it sounds like you have some stuff that's worn out badly.

 

[Bri7man]

So I went back and he said this time that the rear caster is pretty bad and the car will veer slightly until I get new shocks.

He said that the steering wheel isn't lining up because the rack and pinion is probably going out.

Nothing I can afford to replace anytime soon but good to know.

 

[IJ.]

Shocks have NOTHING to do with the alignment he's a shittalker trying to cover his own lack of knowledge, find a real shop and don't go back to Burritoworld...

 

[Poodles]

Shocks have NOTHING to do with the alignment he's a shittalker trying to cover his own lack of knowledge, find a real shop and don't go back to Burritoworld...

+1

 

[Bri7man]

Damn hooligans!!.....

Well darn, the only other place I think I can trust is a place called Bothwell, they are a general repair shop but mainly a race team with this crazy twin turbo'd mustang they compete with. They do amazing work the guys are fun to talk to and strictly business &always honest when it comes to repairs but I don't think they have a 4 wheel rack??

So basically anyplace with a 4 wheel rack I can most likely trust, right?

 

[8t8soup]

Question?

I have an 88 turbo. Its got 2" lowered b&g springs and tokico shocks to maintain TEMS. I broke 4 camber/castor and toe in/out cam bolts loose(so i thought)on the rear,and took it to Les Shwab for the third time.

The guy says i need more positive camber than the cams will adjust before it hits zero and starts over. So my question is does the 2" drop affect the adjustabilty of camber THAT drastic that the rearend will never align right?

 

[IJ.]

Question?

I have an 88 turbo. Its got 2" lowered b&g springs and tokico shocks to maintain TEMS. I broke 4 camber/castor and toe in/out cam bolts loose(so i thought)on the rear,and took it to Les Shwab for the third time.

The guy says i need more positive camber than the cams will adjust before it hits zero and starts over. So my question is does the 2" drop affect the adjustabilty of camber THAT drastic that the rearend will never align right?

You will be able to get either Camber OR Toe correct not both with that drop, to get both right you need to shorten the lower transverse arms 15mm.

 

[kanji1jz]

Okay... Ready? GO! I am an auto technician that specializes in suspension, steering, and alignments. First thing is first THERE IS NO REAR CASTER ADJUSTMENT! Second, when you lower a car you are going to have issues with not being able to get the car "within spec" without the use of aftermarket adjustable arms - you have modified a component of the car that effects alignment therefore the stock specs are void without said arms, unless it is a northern car or the rear cam bolts are seized inside the bushings - as I have had to replace on numerous MKIII Supras including my own. Third, to the OP - you need to have your steering rack bushings, ball joints, tie rods, and control arm bushings checked before you go and keep moving your steering wheel around. All you are doing at this point is screwing up your turn steering rack turn radius. Your struts will effect the alignment if they are blown out and allowing the car to only use the tired springs as stability and weight handling. Also, I have seen where "techs" have adjusted someones alignment angles and forgotten to tighten the nuts back up and caused the car to act squirrelly... Mostly when the rear is left loose. I do agree with IJ in his reply to the above thread.... Camber isn't too terrible to have more negative as long as toe is adjusted correctly to compensate. Once the suspension is customized there needs to be someone that understands alignment angles well enough to perform a custom alignment. I have done many custom alignments that have not worn the tires other than by hard driving. If there are any more questions I will be subscribing to this thread as I don't get on here everyday.

 

[momoney88]

Guys, I'm no mechanic, I just play one on TV:icon_bigg. I just had some ST sways (front/rear) installed and bit the bullet on Powered by Max coilovers. Dropped the car @2" as well and had the lower transverse arms shortened to align. See the before and after alignment #'s. I would think my results turned out favorably....or not? Thoughts? Not a DD and one day plan a track date to learn, enjoy, open wallet more and spend spend spend.
Thanks!

 

[kanji1jz]

Looks damn good! I would like to add some suggestions. First, rear camber should be around -1.5 and depending on the use of the vehicle the toe should be (for race) around +.03, (for street driving) around +.13. Front camber looks great around -1.0 and front toe depending on the use of vehicle should be (for race) around -.03, (for street) around +.10. This is a start for your numbers. A lot of the alignment depends on how aggressive you drive, as well as tire choice, skill level, and the weather. I'm not guarateeing that you can take a corner that is rated at 35 mph at 90 based on these alignment specs, but this is a start to being able to corner with confidence and also trying to take into account tire wear. Good luck!

 

[mk3tattoos]

Great info

 

[momoney88]

Props kanji1jz for the evaluation. I'm not too aggressive but I do plan on stepping it up a bit with the recent mods- night and day difference on handling!!! Skill level-nub, tires-toyo proxes t1r (on the stock sawblades)- looking to move up to 17's possible staggered? still researching on the forums. Trying to keep it level headed but is that really possible? Neighbor runs a 944 at Sebring and has me convinced to give it a run.
Thanks again for the starting point!

 

[kanji1jz]

Not a problem. Where in Florida are you? If you are close to the tampa area I could help you out with that alignment. I also roll fenders, set ride height, and have a full shop of tools and such. In fact, we will be working on supras Monday night if you are close by

 

[momoney88]

I'm on the east coast- Palm Bay. 4 hours round trip more than likely. Week days are no good for me unfortunately. Maybe on a weekend? I'll PM you my contact info.

 

[supraguru05]

I dont like bumping old threads with difference issues so I will lock this. Please start new threads if you have new issues. Also note that the cambers shown in the above alignment would be ok for a daily driven car but are to positive for performance activities.