Airbox needed with underhood air cleaner?

The first stomp on the "go" pedal after engine warmup produces rapid, oscillating hesitation, very rich mixture for a few seconds, and rare instances of fuel cut. It will self correct in perhaps 30 seconds or so of high speed driving, when (presumably) the air temperature thermistor in the AFM finally reads the correct air temperature, air coming through an enlarged opening where the stock air cleaner housing was.


I'd like to know if anyone else has had this happen with an air cleaner located under the hood. I've got an HKS air cleaner (pretty far forward) because it appears to present the least impediment to airflow. Yeah, it does not clean the air very well, but I'm careful to drive where there is no construction dust, etc.


The air temperature thermistor is needed because the Karman Vortex AFM is a volumetric, not mass flow device, so it corrects for incoming air temperature. It is encapsulated by the plastic nub and possibly epoxy fill on the bottom of the Karman sensor. Thus it lags reading the true incoming air temperature. In the stock application this is of no concern, because air is always pulled in from in front of the radiator bulkhead. However, that is not true when air is taken from under the hood, particularly at low speeds, and particularly with the bottom engine cover in place.


There are three ways which would appear to solve the problem:


1. Get a bare thermistor with the same resistance and characteristic curve from Digi-Key, Jameco, etc., and use it instead of the stock part. Locate it in the incoming air stream so it is fast responding.


2. Build an airbox with an integrated air filter. I've seen photographs of this having been done, but it is a very time-consuming undertaking.


3. Revert to the stock airbox, possibly with modifications to streamline the sharp walls at the AFM connection, alter it to fit the Lexus AFM bolt pattern, and possibly modify it to increase the air intake opening by 50% to match the increased opening in the radiator bulkhead.


Any and all comments would be appreciated. Thanks.


BernieK
 
Oct 11, 2005
3,815
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Thousand Oaks, CA
I'm not sure that air temp hysteresis is the cause. I have datalogged THA and it tends to be very high even with the factory cold air intake. This is due I think to heat soak from the AFM which sits near the exhaust manifold. This temp will drop with higher air flow as the intake cools down. I believe the factory setup models the change well enough.

I believe you have the 'sense' line for your wastegate plumbed after the intercooler. I wonder if that large feedback delay has caused your wastegate control loop to become unstable. Something to consider at least.
 
hvyman:

Don't know who Kai is, possibly because I have not used the site much. I can say that the airflow into the AFM (stock or Lexus) needs to be straightened first despite the straightening vanes in the AFM. That is one reason I chose the HKS air cleaner, and long round to rectangular adapter. The HKS is quite streamlined inside. I had experienced breakup with a conical filter above 5000 RPM (running 57 trin CT-26, Lex/550 injectors, upgraded IC, 4" exhaust). Any further information you have would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

hvyman

Dang Dude! No Way Man.
Staff member
Apr 17, 2007
12,568
1
0
Fullerton,CA
I doubt your break up was due to the air filter. Never heard of that.

I think you have some underlieing problems.

Have you checked for codes?
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
8,873
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48
U.S.
www.ebay.com
It should look something like this.

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Many an EFI car with a K&N FIPK has had a problem with a fan clutch causing an idle problem when exposed and not enclosed.