Air conditioner

[67rstbkt]

Does anyone know much about the A/C system. More specifically, what the voltage to the compressor should be? I'm refilling this thing for the first time since I've had it. The components appear to be intact, but I have no idea what the PO did to it. I converted to 134A (system was empty, I've done this before with no problems), and was able to empty one can (with oil). The compressor did not kick on, and when I try to put in another can, I can not. It's as if there is too much in there allready. I guess what I'm trying to find out is if I have a bad compressor or if I need to look elsewhere.
Thanks for any input

 

[giterboosted]

i had this issue, the power supply to mine was gone and i had to strait wire it to a toggle switch in cabin, but thats just mine, may be of some help to you, hope so

 

[67rstbkt]

i had this issue, the power supply to mine was gone and i had to strait wire it to a toggle switch in cabin, but thats just mine, may be of some help to you, hope so

Did you just run 12 volts to the compressor?
Thanks

 

[jetjock]

The clutch coil requires 12 volts. What do you mean by it won't go in?
Assuming you're charging the low side with vapor try jumping the compressor for a minute or warming the refrigerant can.

 

[Kckazdude]

Why was the system empty? Did you do anything other than throw on some retro fittings and charge? Did you replace the filter/drier?

 

[Poodles]

black death in 3....2....

 

[jetjock]

^ Lmao. Probably so....

 

[67rstbkt]

black death in 3....2....

Come on - why's it got to be black death for? To answer your questions, it was empty when I got it, probably when the engine was swapped by a PO. No, I did not change the filter/drier; I know I'm supposed to, but I did the same thing a few times (on other vehicles), without issue. I tried jumping the compressor with 12v and it's a no go. The clutch does not engage, so I'm guessing the compressor is shot.
Thanks

 

[Kckazdude]

On older unknown systems I remove the filter drier to see what is inside it. Metal particles tell me to replace the compressor and clean/replace expansion valve/orifice tube. I also replace all o-ring connections. Then I pull a vacuum on the system for diagnostic reasons. A fast pull vacuum tells me I have a restriction in the system. A long pull vacuum or if it falls after shutting pump off tells me I have a leak. Also a jumper to 12V on the compressor with engine off will give you an indication if the clutch will work or not. A solid click and it will usually pass. No click or soft/slow click lets me know I have a problem. Once I have gone through this I can put reon in. 99% of the time I am greeted with a working system.

 

[Poodles]

I speak from experience.

Cheaping out now will only bite you in the ass later. If all the refrigerant leaked out, there is more than likely oil still in there (if not trace amounts of the old R12).

Old oil won't circulate, and at best is just going to pool somewhere. PAG oil doesn't get along with the chlorine in R12.

Pretty much any screwup is going to produce acid in the system which will destroy it from the inside out.