Advice on Machine Work For Fully Built Motor??

[Rennat]

before you go and spend like 60 on bearings...

go to napaonline.com, and find the aux bearings there... through napa there $8 for BOTH. if you cant find it, let me know, i'll send you the part number for them.

 

[Doward]

Yep. The bearings also have to be VERY precisely installed (to line up the oil hole) so ensure your machinist takes his/her time with it. They were a royal BITCH to do on mine, I know

 

[sneakypete]

so i do need new AUX bearings. ill bring the oil pump to my machinist along with the new bearings for it. i prefer to get from toyota... but if they are too much ill try napa.

 

[BoostedFloto]

so i do need new AUX bearings. ill bring the oil pump to my machinist along with the new bearings for it. i prefer to get from toyota... but if they are too much ill try napa.

You don't need to bring the oil pump.....just the new Aux Bearings and the oil pump drive shaft(Aux Shaft)

Here is the TSRM for it:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=84

 

[suprarich]

Awesome post. What do you mean by using the the align bored mains to indicate off of? Are you saying basically just ask them to do the bore first and then do the decking? Or is it something specific that should be asked of the machine shop?

Are you in agreeance with Dowards clearance numbers for this high of HP build? Im a little weary of going COMPLETELY out of Toyota spec. Although it DOES make sense.

The entire motor is built around the rotating assembly. Meaning that the head is to be square with the crank, not the crank square to the head. Everything is to be square and plumb with the crankshaft as it should be your starting point for a blueprint. So with that being said, if you are alignhoning the mains, that is to be done first. Then the machinist should use the newly machined mains to set up the block on the machine that will prep the gasket surface. Then once the machine is finished the gasket surface will not only be flat, but it will be parallel and square to the centerline of the crankshaft. This will also assure that each cylinder has an equal main to deck height.

I am not one to tell someone what oil clearance they should run. There are many variables involved to each individual motor. Just the type of oil alone used will change the need of your clearance, not just the weight. Pressure of the oil also. In my fuel bike I run .0015 with 95 psi of oil pressure with redline 30W syn. oil. If I just changed the type of oil to a conventional 30w, the motor would explode. So, what works for me or anyone else might not work for you. We have an oil expert on the forum named John. Maybe he could help you out a little also on the oil.

 

[Idealsupra]

The entire motor is built around the rotating assembly. Meaning that the head is to be square with the crank, not the crank square to the head. Everything is to be square and plumb with the crankshaft as it should be your starting point for a blueprint. So with that being said, if you are alignhoning the mains, that is to be done first. Then the machinist should use the newly machined mains to set up the block on the machine that will prep the gasket surface. Then once the machine is finished the gasket surface will not only be flat, but it will be parallel and square to the centerline of the crankshaft. This will also assure that each cylinder has an equal main to deck height.

I am not one to tell someone what oil clearance they should run. There are many variables involved to each individual motor. Just the type of oil alone used will change the need of your clearance, not just the weight. Pressure of the oil also. In my fuel bike I run .0015 with 95 psi of oil pressure with redline 30W syn. oil. If I just changed the type of oil to a conventional 30w, the motor would explode. So, what works for me or anyone else might not work for you. We have an oil expert on the forum named John. Maybe he could help you out a little also on the oil.

Ok pretty much what I figured you meant. Thanks. I can understand the clearance stuff...guess we are just gonna need to do a little more looking around/talking to people and then go with what we feel will work properly.

You should sell boostedfloto a stroker crank :naughty::biglaugh:

 

[BoostedFloto]

Bump........What about the head anything specific there I need to be aware of ??

 

[suprarich]

The head should be hardness tested, then tested to check how much it is warped. If it is too far gone just get another head that is good. If your head it too warped, and you mill it flate on the gasket area, the top will still be warped. This will make for excessive "run out" on the cams. The only way to cure that then is to alignbore the cam housing holes straight again. But even then, the geometry of the cam to bucket will be off a little, which can create a problem if you plane on running a big cam. The head could be straightend in a special oven before any work is done, but it is just eaiser to find a really good used head. Look for a NA head from a cressida. chances are they will be in better shape. A lot of HP is locked up in the head, don't be afraid to spend some money up there if you want to reach your power goal. I am guessing 3K+ by the time you do valves, springs, cams, labor, and port work to reach your goal.

 

[suprarich]

Ok pretty much what I figured you meant. Thanks. I can understand the clearance stuff...guess we are just gonna need to do a little more looking around/talking to people and then go with what we feel will work properly.

You should sell boostedfloto a stroker crank :naughty::biglaugh:

I am in orlando right now, may go over to Sean's little meet up on Wendsday near Titan. If you are around we can talk about the motor tricks.

 

[Doward]

Rich, you're going to be in O-town on Wednesday? If you happen around the Gainesville area at all, give me a holler - Even better, you should come out to Test and Tune @ Gainesville Raceway on Wednesday evening!

 

[Adjuster]

Few things I noticed.

Your using used pistons. Get them sonic cleaned, and then send them out, or have them coated.
Thermal barrier on the crown.
Thermal dispersant on the underside.
Molydisulfied on the skirts.

I don't see a reason for the billet mains, but be my guest. (Are you trying for 1000+hp here?)

Tourqe place installed when they line bore... and your front cover too, and the larger bolts... (It affects the piston bore more than the line, but everything does move just about everything else around when it's all bolted together.

Head work totally depends on how much you want to spend.
Budget results do not mean poor results

Comp Cams springs, and larger valves if you can find them. (Guy named enginebuilder on eBay was my source for stainless ones, 1mm over sized... Work fine, and included new bronze valve guides in the deal, about 225.00 shipped IIRC.)
There are plenty of posts on this stuff however...

After building a few of these, I've often wondered if just spending about the same amount of money on a nice 7.0L twin turbo V8 would be less hassle, and result in way more power, and less chance for failure?

Then again, I'd probably be sent straight to Toyota Hell when I die.... LOL

 

[suprarich]

Rich, you're going to be in O-town on Wednesday? If you happen around the Gainesville area at all, give me a holler - Even better, you should come out to Test and Tune @ Gainesville Raceway on Wednesday evening!

I am in orlando now untill sunday morning and then will be driving back to ohio, Sean said he will be having a little Supra meet up after work down the road from Titan, So I will prob be there. Can't do too much more as I have the whole family with me. Would be nice to run into a few guys and talk 7m.

Adjuster - I don't think the comp springs will have enough room for the size cam he would want for 800+ HP. At least to be below a safe percentage of the max. I would like to see a 9.5 to 10mm lift with a 235 to 240 @.050 for a 800+ HP

 

[BoostedFloto]

I am in orlando now untill sunday morning and then will be driving back to ohio, Sean said he will be having a little Supra meet up after work down the road from Titan, So I will prob be there. Can't do too much more as I have the whole family with me. Would be nice to run into a few guys and talk 7m.

Adjuster - I don't think the comp springs will have enough room for the size cam he would want for 800+ HP. At least to be below a safe percentage of the max. I would like to see a 9.5 to 10mm lift with a 235 to 240 @.050 for a 800+ HP

Well I'm going to be Full Ferrea Valve train. Will those Springs be enough ?

What kind of Cam would you Suggest? I've read mixed reviews on the BC's.


Adjuster: I think I'm going to end up getting new pistons rather then use my old ones even though they have under a hundred miles on them. (I'm looking at the new Titan Ones) and Definitely will get the pistons coated if they don't come coated.

The Billet Mains I'd prefer to error on the side of caution and over planning.

I'll tell them to use the torque plate for the line bore as well as the timing plate etc.

Head pretty sure going Full Ferrea unless someone has a reason to go something different.
Just unsure on what cams to go with at this point.

 

[suprarich]

For 800+ hp I would use a set of custom billet cams with a 9.5 to 10mm 235-240 duration@.050 lift for part time street use and a 10.5 to 11mm 240 duration@.050 lift if the motor is going to be drag only. Yes the ferrera springs will have enough clearance. I would make a set of oversized solid buckets.

 

[turbojuiced]

Well I'm going to be Full Ferrea Valve train. Will those Springs be enough ?

What kind of Cam would you Suggest? I've read mixed reviews on the BC's.


Adjuster: I think I'm going to end up getting new pistons rather then use my old ones even though they have under a hundred miles on them. (I'm looking at the new Titan Ones) and Definitely will get the pistons coated if they don't come coated.

The Billet Mains I'd prefer to error on the side of caution and over planning.

I'll tell them to use the torque plate for the line bore as well as the timing plate etc.

Head pretty sure going Full Ferrea unless someone has a reason to go something different.
Just unsure on what cams to go with at this point.

Ive read through most of these posts and I havent seen anyone say anything about you running solid buckets and needing shims? Now in my experience when changing from hydraulic buckets to solids you need shims to account for the valve lash.

If its going to be strictly a race car then I would go with a cam that has the most duration possible. Your idle will be rough but its ideal to make big hp. If you need it to be streetable then go with suprarich's numbers because those do sound correct from my experience as well. I would go to the 11mm range instead of the 10.5 as that is still decently harsh.

Just my opinion but if you are investing all this money and new parts into the great engine it would only make sense to me that the pistons you use are brand new as well.

And yes go with the billet mains definitely a good idea.

I have used nothing but ferrea in my race engines and never ever(knock on lots of wood) have I ever broken anything in the head or valvetrain. And we are talking some high hp engines. So definitely a very good choice on your part.

 

[IJ.]

Ive read through most of these posts and I havent seen anyone say anything about you running solid buckets and needing shims? Now in my experience when changing from hydraulic buckets to solids you need shims to account for the valve lash.

If its going to be strictly a race car then I would go with a cam that has the most duration possible. Your idle will be rough but its ideal to make big hp. If you need it to be streetable then go with suprarich's numbers because those do sound correct from my experience as well. I would go to the 11mm range instead of the 10.5 as that is still decently harsh.

Just my opinion but if you are investing all this money and new parts into the great engine it would only make sense to me that the pistons you use are brand new as well.

And yes go with the billet mains definitely a good idea.

I have used nothing but ferrea in my race engines and never ever(knock on lots of wood) have I ever broken anything in the head or valvetrain. And we are talking some high hp engines. So definitely a very good choice on your part.

Jucied: Do you even own a 7M?

Hydraulic Buckets?

WTF are you smoking?

 

[suprarich]

I mentioned making a set of oversized solid buckets in my last post.

 

[BoostedFloto]

bumping up....Would like to get my stuff together and get a ballpark quote from the machine shop sometime this week.

 

[JimR]

What are your plans to achieve the RA finish you want on the head and block surfaces? Milling (and praying), Grinding, or Milling and then Lapping?

 

[BoostedFloto]

What are your plans to achieve the RA finish you want on the head and block surfaces? Milling (and praying), Grinding, or Milling and then Lapping?

The last time I had my machine shop resurface parts I was like I need an RA of X for my MHG(forgot what it was nowadays lol)...They laughed at me and was like thats sandpaper we'll take care of it for you and it came out freaking mirror like sooo I don't know their process is but it WORKS.