92 Teal MKIII

[Supra90gr]

I was building an 89 but due to the fire a lot of things got destroyed so I scrapped that project and used it as a parts car and I picked up a 92 teal auto turbo with 150k. Paint and body are in very good condition.

When I got it I started fixing things here and there that the old owner "tried" fixing himself. Radiator cap was shot and not holding pressure so I put a new radiator cap on. After driving it for 1 day it overheated. Did a test and found BHG. So I send a spare motor that I had down to my machine shop along with the head to get some goodies put in it. The parts car has the R154 in it and I will be doing the swap after engine comes back from my machine shop. The Mk4 TT wheels were just put on with new fresh tires. My plan is to make this car get about 600whp. I will keep you guys posted on everything thats being done to the car.

 

[BrandonW]

Nice pick up pretty rare year and color hows the interior? Is it the shadow grey leather?

 

[Grandavi]

Love the teal and a nice rare model year as well! Looking forward to see how you achieve the 600 hp

 

[supraguy@aol]

Tasty car.

 

[gp-7mgte]

Nice car, good luck with it

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 2

 

[Supra90gr]

Thanks guys!!!

Just re did all brakes stoptech cross drilled and slotted rotors & hawk ceramic pads with goodridge stainless steel lines.

My clutch came in spec stage 2

 

[Grandavi]

Just a note to dispel a myth... Cross drilled and slotted rotors perform worse and can possibly crack. They look cool, but the reasoning for them is flawed. You shouldn't have any issues unless you drive really hard but they are worse than full rotors and potentially unsafe.

For looks... Great. For use? I wouldn't put them on my car.

And if you reach 600 rwhp... Get rid of them. I run Brembo rotors, but for a 600 hp car I would plan for a big brake kit.

As a further note... if your going to reach your 600 rwhp... you may want to run your plans by the members here just to make sure you can reach your goals properly. A 600 rwhp Supra isn't quite as easy as most people think. I could bump my boost up on my car and reach a bit over 500 rwhp, however, my head isn't built properly for that, so there is a list of issues I could have, so I keep mine turned down to 12 psi. I found these things out in hindsight but have learned now that I should ask if what I am doing is actually smart rather than falling for the whole mess of false information and misleading power stories out there.

Its very simple to make mistakes built on misconceptions (such as using cross drilled/slotted rotors) because the proper information isn't flagged as "read-this!". Also, people don't always include the full story with their builds, so you don't always get the "why" part. It's very straight forward, yet complex at the same time. Your car is designed for a 200'ish HP platform. Raising it means that you have to consider adjustments to accommodate they power level (bumper to bumper). If you research and read the builds, you will see things like differentials torn from cracked subframes, Melted pistons due to detonation, blown blocks from thrown rods, etc.. etc...

To avoid doing things twice, talk out your build, gather the information, ask to see if your missing something (like floating valve trains, dropped shims, boiling brake fluid, mashed clutches, under or over fueling.. etc.. etc.. )

Just pointing it out in the hopes that you avoid some of the costly mistakes I made with my car so far. I have asked the proper questions here and ignored the advice. Then I had to go back and do it the way I was told in the first place because I failed to see the "why". There are a lot of knowledgable people here.

 

[Supra90gr]

Just a note to dispel a myth... Cross drilled and slotted rotors perform worse and can possibly crack. They look cool, but the reasoning for them is flawed. You shouldn't have any issues unless you drive really hard but they are worse than full rotors and potentially unsafe.

For looks... Great. For use? I wouldn't put them on my car.

And if you reach 600 rwhp... Get rid of them. I run Brembo rotors, but for a 600 hp car I would plan for a big brake kit.

As a further note... if your going to reach your 600 rwhp... you may want to run your plans by the members here just to make sure you can reach your goals properly. A 600 rwhp Supra isn't quite as easy as most people think. I could bump my boost up on my car and reach a bit over 500 rwhp, however, my head isn't built properly for that, so there is a list of issues I could have, so I keep mine turned down to 12 psi. I found these things out in hindsight but have learned now that I should ask if what I am doing is actually smart rather than falling for the whole mess of false information and misleading power stories out there.

Its very simple to make mistakes built on misconceptions (such as using cross drilled/slotted rotors) because the proper information isn't flagged as "read-this!". Also, people don't always include the full story with their builds, so you don't always get the "why" part. It's very straight forward, yet complex at the same time. Your car is designed for a 200'ish HP platform. Raising it means that you have to consider adjustments to accommodate they power level (bumper to bumper). If you research and read the builds, you will see things like differentials torn from cracked subframes, Melted pistons due to detonation, blown blocks from thrown rods, etc.. etc...

To avoid doing things twice, talk out your build, gather the information, ask to see if your missing something (like floating valve trains, dropped shims, boiling brake fluid, mashed clutches, under or over fueling.. etc.. etc.. )

Just pointing it out in the hopes that you avoid some of the costly mistakes I made with my car so far. I have asked the proper questions here and ignored the advice. Then I had to go back and do it the way I was told in the first place because I failed to see the "why". There are a lot of knowledgable people here.

Well said... I am taking the proper steps in building this car. I'm in no rush and i will take the proper steps with building the motor. When I get the motor back from the machinist I will be doing an overhaul on the oiling system....after that is putting everything back stock and to break that motor in. I'll be driving the car stock with the exception of a 3" turbo back exhaust for sometime. While that is happening I will be sending my spare rear diff and r154 in for overhaul and upgrade.
As for the rotors I had these from my last MKIII supra laying around and it needed rotors very badly. That's why I put those on. I will be getting a BBK for the front when the time comes.

Trust me I went face first in one of my old builds and I was rushing everything and in the end I never got to enjoy the car cause it always kept breaking sh!t. This build is going to be over a period of time with much experience acquired from these forums and also from people that I personally know..... I'm not saying that I have everything down and I know what I'm doing, but when the time comes the questions shall be asked.

 

[MadRPM]

Very nice! I really like the color.

You got pics of the interior?

 

[Supra90gr]

Very nice! I really like the color.

You got pics of the interior?

Thanks!!

Interior is in pretty decent shape. Its shadow gray. It used to be leather but the last owner swapped the seats for cloth. I will take some interior pics when I get a chance. I'm also looking to replace the seats with something lighter. Not very sure on which ones to get.

 

[Grandavi]

Shadow grey... The Supra unicorn..,

BBK... Don't go slotted..stay full patch, no slots, no holes.
That's a 1960 thing... Not a 2014 way to do brakes.

 

[Supra90gr]

Shadow grey... The Supra unicorn..,

BBK... Don't go slotted..stay full patch, no slots, no holes.
That's a 1960 thing... Not a 2014 way to do brakes.

I'll keep that in mind!!!

 

[akito]

So JElly!!!!

 

[Supra90gr]

So I finally got my motor back after a 2 months from the machine shop.

Engine has CP pistons, eagle rods, clevite rod and main bearings with arp main studs.
Cylinder head got a valve job along with BC springs

I will be starting removal of old motor from the supra next week when all of my parts come in.

My plan right now is to keep it kinda stock (stock turbo, fuel system etc...) I went way over my budget on this build so I'm waiting to save up more money for the turbo kit, fuel system and standalone.

So the following will be done:
CT26 60-1 brand new (friend is basically giving it to me because he doesn't own a supra anymore) with driftmotions soft line kit
Titan 1.4mm MLS head gasket
AZ performance oil pump pipe
New OEM oil pump
New OEM timing belt kit with water pump
Mishimoto radiator and electric fans
HKS EVC boost controller
HKS super AFR
Lexus MAF
Custom 3" turbo back exhaust
Custom front mount intercooler
AEM boost gauge and Air fuel ratio gauge.

More to follow soon!!!

 

[Grandavi]

Very nice!
Didn't see it, but your probably shimming oil pump as well.

Love seeing these shortblocks built like that

 

[BrandonW]

personally I would stay with the clutch fan and a good oem shroud over efans and pick up a walbro fuel pump

 

[Supra90gr]

personally I would stay with the clutch fan and a good oem shroud over efans and pick up a walbro fuel pump

Why do you say that?

 

[Grandavi]

Less issues with stock clutch fan and it normally flows more. I have only heard of a few happy with efans, but having never used them, I can't qualify that with experience.

 

[Supra90gr]

Less issues with stock clutch fan and it normally flows more. I have only heard of a few happy with efans, but having never used them, I can't qualify that with experience.

My buddy with his 87 has the same setup and it works as good as the stock fan with clutch if not better.....

Will see when I install them and have the car running.

 

[Supra90gr]

So here is some progress with the motor. At this time I'm awaiting the arrival of an ATI super damper to get rid of that unorthodox crank pulley.... Finished power washing the engine bay. And starting tomorrow I'm starting on the 5spd swap.

Have a question about the 5spd swap. I have a manual computer and an auto computer. Should i just leave the auto in there or should i replace it with the manual one?

Also about the oil pump shimming...is there a thread on the procedure. It seems straight forward but ive never shimmed an oil pump and im not about to experiment on this motor lol....