89 7m gte no start and code 14

[7MA0-1A1]

I recently bought a white 89 turbo 5 speed in excellent shape. Ran great on the test drive and then died on the way home. Now tucked in my garage it will not start. Im getting a code 14

The car has a .57 trim ct turbo, lex afm, 550 injectors, safc 2, walboro pump, areomotive fpr.


Ive checked

The wires to the coil pack. I have continuity. I checked them thoroughly as it seems everyone has problems with them.

The igniter. I did the tests as the tsrm called out including the tricky test with a 3v battery. It passed every test

Wires from the 6 pin to connector from the igniter to the coil pack. I have continuity.

Wires from the 4 pin connector from the igniter to the ecu and have continuity.

Coil pack. It was in spec per tsrm

The cps is hard wired and it tested it at the ecu pins. What was weird was when i test the ohms the value
wood build up. It would start at 70 ohms then 120 ohms the 180 ohms every time i would touch the pins disconect the volt meter then re test them.

Plug wires are still in great shape and installed new plugs, still no start

i also have 43 pounds of fuel pressure.

What am i missing? Can the igniter be bad but still pefrom tsrm tests? Could a bad cps give me the code 14 and no start?

Any help would be awsome!

 

[MK3pizzadriver]

Timing light flashing when you crank it?

RPM gauge in cluster move at all when you crank it?

Open the oil filler cap. Can you see the cam move when you crank it? Or if you don't have an assistant, is it in a different position after you crank it?

 

[7MA0-1A1]

Tach does jump around a tad bit. I dont have a timing light. Ill pull my oil cap and crank it over tonight after work and check.

 

[7MA0-1A1]

Got some help from the wife tonight and had her turn over the engine and the cams move. I pulled the number one plug and have spark but the plug is dry as a bone for all this cranking and not starting. I have fuel pressure at the regulator. Would the code 14 cut off fuel to the injectors?

 

[MK3pizzadriver]

Sorry I'm not much help.. but I wonder what would happen if you clear the code and see if it'll start on some starter fluid. Fire it up and see if the code comes back.
The TSRM isn't much help either.. says bad ECU if everything else checks out
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=26

I will test my CPS tomorrow and see if resistance ramps up like yours.

 

[Nick M]

I have fuel pressure at the regulator. Would the code 14 cut off fuel to the injectors?

Yes. Injection is halted because you do not have spark confirmation (IGf) at the PCM.

 

[7MA0-1A1]

Does the igniter control the spark confirmation? Or the ecu? My igf wire has continuity so my problem is on the end of the wire.

 

[MK3pizzadriver]

Checked my CPS (1992 turbo) and all three coils go straight to 224 ohms.
For some reason earlier cars have different resistance specs.
(According to Haynes Manual)
1987 and 1988 non-turbos - 140-180 ohms (all three coils)
1987 - 1990 turbos - 140-180 ohms (all three coils)
1989 - 1991 non-turbos - G1 and G2 coils - 140-180 ohms, Ne coil - 180-220 ohms
1992 non-turbos - G1 and G2 coils - 125-190 ohms, Ne coil - 155-240 ohms
1991 turbos - 205-255 ohms (all three coils)
1992 turbos - 185-265 ohms (all three coils)

I bet if you tried to buy a rebuilt one though, they'd have the same part number for all years.

I remember testing them cold as the values go up when hot.

 

[7MA0-1A1]

Thank you for the info! I did find it strange my values changed when i kept testing it. My values would go to almost to 180 then jump back to 70 something. Kinda hard to test it lol

 

[MK3pizzadriver]

Hmm maybe test it at the CPS, see if your readings change.

I think I have my old one kicking around somewhere in my parents garage, if you wanna try it out. It still worked, just leaked oil. Not sure if it'll matter that it's a '92 with higher resistance.. I checked on Rock Auto and they list the same rebuilt part for all years. I'm up here in Shoreline.

 

[7MA0-1A1]

My cps is hard wired. Some one solderd and shrink wrapped it. I want to cut in a new drift motion cps plug. But it sounds like i might make a trip to shoreline soon lol

 

[Nick M]

If you don't have your cps pickup, you will have a DTC 12, not 14.

 

[7MA0-1A1]

Ok good to know. The building resistance values seem odd to me though. So i guess at this point my question is do i replace my igniter or the ecu? The igniter passed the tsrm test.

 

[Nick M]

Do you have spark? Cylinder 6 is easy to check. Use a spark spark plug and ground it.

 

[MK3pizzadriver]

You could also stick really thin needles in the wires at the CPS to test them.

-edit- Nick, he said he has spark at #1 plug in post #4. but maybe he should check them all. Auto parts stores usually have a free tool rental program, a timing light would make that job a lot easier.

 

[7MA0-1A1]

I tested 1 and 6. But that only tests one coil pack lol. Both had a nice spark.

 

[Nick M]

There are only 3 choices. The ignitor, the wiring from the ignitor to the PCM, or the PCM itself. The PCM rarely goes bad. People ruining it is not the same as going bad.

 

[7MA0-1A1]

If i had to put my money in something it would be the igniter. But does the igniter close the feed back loop or is that done by the ecu? Both the igniter and the ecu dont normaly go bad from what ive read. I appreciate all the feed back so far!

 

[Nick M]

Do you know what a feedback system is? That means, in general, it responds to its own control. The ignitor does not do that. It generates a signal that is monitored by the PCM. An easy check, if you have one, is put in a known good ignitor.

And maybe that isn't what you meant by feedback.

 

[7MA0-1A1]

I dont have a igniter laying around. I would love to try another and put this to rest. I want to drive my car so bad