7MGTE Oil Pressure Problems

Turbo6Supra

New Member
Aug 21, 2013
1
0
0
47
Cape Town
Hi Guys

I am writing from Cape Town, South Africa. I have an 88 model Euro spec Supra MA70 with the 7MGTEu engine installed. Before I start, just wanna say that I have built and rebuilt a few engines in my days and am a qualified Mechnical Engineer as well. My career is in IT though, so cars are a hobby but I know enough to get by and have a decent home workshop to do most jobs myself.

So to my problem, this is the first time I have experienced something like this, thus the advice.

I did an engine rebuild on my worn 7MGTE with new rings and bearings after I knocked the big end bearings due to running the engine at high revs with too little oil - my fault that I didn't check oil knowing that my valve stem seals were passed their due date! :(

Once the engineers had it, I had to source another crank as mine was bent after the knock so I found a complete stock sub for little money. After rebuilding the sub with new bearings and rings (thankfully cylinder bores were well within spec), I fitted new KING bearings and Grant rings and had all the clearances checked and double checked by the engineers to within factory specifications.

After assembly, I fitted a new EQUUS mechanical gauge as I am running an aftermarket full management system which tach adaptor so my oil pressure gauge never worked before and I wanted to make sure all was well. Now, I find that the oil pressure on a cold-start would be fine at around 3 bar but as the engine warmed up the oil-pressure would drop to the 0.5 bar mark. After a vew blips on the throttle, the oil pressure would drop to zero and be so low than you could literally see the air pockets in the clear oil line. Naturally, I removed the engine and sent it back to the engineers. They checked clearances again and I checked and all was correct at which point they adviced me to fit a new oil pump even though my used one just needed a slight pump body shim to be within spec and was boosted on the relief valve.

I replaced the oil pump with an original Aisin unit and boosted the pressure valve again a 3mm spacer behind the spring and still the exact same result. Pressure is fine when oil is cold but when operating temperature is reached oil pressure drops. I am using a 10W40 Castrol Futron Semi-Synthetic Oil which in our climate of 22 to 28 degrees C at the coast is more than adequate for this engine.

Then some idiot who claims to know the 7MGTE told me that the engine has high volume low pressure and that it is fine to drive the car like that and after 1 2nd gear prod in the boost (0.5bar boost currently) I heard a bearing rumble. Lifted the motor off the mounts, dropped the sump and replaced all the big end bearings again! Only bearing number 5 ran slightly with no visible damage to the crank. My conclusion is that this engine is not getting the oil feed it needs.

Another source told me that the oil cooler adapter on the side of the engine also has a pressure relief valve and this could be the only other source of my problem. Anyone have oil pressure problems caused by an oil cooler adaptor? I do not want to buy another motor as I have felt this 7MGTE in all its glory and on a measly 0.5bar boost it was really strong so I would like to diagnose this issue. I have already bought a used oil cooler adaptor but before I replace it would like to hear other experiences.

I have already followed the other advice on the forum regarding engine rebuilds and the oil pressure woes so this is quite frustrating for me.

Thanks guys and compliments of season to all
Turbo6Supra - Cape Town, SA
 

suprasick

Hey look...a Supra!
Mar 17, 2006
291
0
16
Milton, Washington
I noticed you said the car has a 7MGTEu engine. Was the "u" at the end a typo? If it wasn't, you have a pretty rare engine. Do you have any pics?
 

7M4EVR

New Member
Oct 8, 2012
695
0
0
fah, fah away
I would definitely be suspect of the pick-up tube. Any cracks or breaks in that and you're going to have obvious problems. Since you replaced the oil pump with new, you can almost rule that out. There is an o-ring between the pump and pick up tube though.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291210/catalog.aspx?F=1501&P=1

The pressure relief just opens to let oil to the cooler when oil pressure reaches a certain point. If that pressure relief was missing or not functioning properly and was just letting oil move through to the cooler at all times that would affect the pressure, but not sure how much. That relief is very easy to get to to check.

Did you do anything to the oil squirters?
 

CyFi6

Aliens.
Oct 11, 2007
2,972
0
36
Phoenix
www.google.com
Easy way to check the oil cooler relief.. With engine idling, pinch off the oil line coming from the oil filter head and see if this causes a rise in oil pressure.
 

24vtoy

New Member
May 17, 2011
76
0
0
durban
hi suprasick

what do you mean by 7mgteu is rare ?

mine is also a 7mgteu

i know there was lots of debates thats 7mgteu are turbo A engines but this aint true. mine is stamped 7mgteu but doesnt have maf sensor etc. normal airflow, and no other fancy turbo a stuff
 

suprasick

Hey look...a Supra!
Mar 17, 2006
291
0
16
Milton, Washington
24vtoy;1984790 said:
hi suprasick

what do you mean by 7mgteu is rare ?

mine is also a 7mgteu

i know there was lots of debates thats 7mgteu are turbo A engines but this aint true. mine is stamped 7mgteu but doesnt have maf sensor etc. normal airflow, and no other fancy turbo a stuff

Do you mean no MAP sensor, just normal AFM (airflow meter)?

Would you happen to have a picture? I guess here in the US we are used to 7MGTE so anytime there is a "u" on the end you can consider it rare. I wonder whats different that makes your engine have a "u"?
 

24vtoy

New Member
May 17, 2011
76
0
0
durban
yep bru, just normal airflow metre

will post a pic up of the chassis tag now.

i think 7mgteu was just a japan spec for emissions control
 

jdmfreak

PACNW
Oct 8, 2010
2,232
0
0
north clark co. WA.
BEFORE "-":
the letters indicate the engine family, for example in 18R-G
the engine family is R, in 2JZ-GTE the family is JZ.
The number(s) at the beginning is the number of the are for a certain
bottom end version (block, bore, stroke). The larger the number,
the newer the bottom end version. It may seem like the larger the
number, the larger the displacement but this is not always true.

AFTER "-":
G = twin cam (wide angle, 45 degrees or more between the intake and exhaust valves)
F = "economical" twin cam (narrow angle, around 22 degrees)
T = turbocharged
Z = supercharged
E = fuel injection
i = single point fuel injection
L = transverse mounted engine (seems to be an obsolete code)
B = twin carbs (only used on non-twin cam engines, obsolete code)
R = air injection
S = swirl intake ports (only a few made in mid '80s)
S = direct injection & swirl pot pistons (starting from '97/98)
U = emission package (Japan)
C = emission package (California)
LPG = LPG fuel
 

QWIKSTRIKE

475rwhp459torq an climbin
Apr 3, 2005
1,172
0
36
63
Some where out there
www.cardomain.com
Turbo6Supra;1983492 said:
Hi Guys

I am writing from Cape Town, South Africa. I have an 88 model Euro spec Supra MA70 with the 7MGTEu engine installed. Before I start, just wanna say that I have built and rebuilt a few engines in my days and am a qualified Mechnical Engineer as well. My career is in IT though, so cars are a hobby but I know enough to get by and have a decent home workshop to do most jobs myself.

So to my problem, this is the first time I have experienced something like this, thus the advice.

I did an engine rebuild on my worn 7MGTE with new rings and bearings after I knocked the big end bearings due to running the engine at high revs with too little oil - my fault that I didn't check oil knowing that my valve stem seals were passed their due date! :(

Once the engineers had it, I had to source another crank as mine was bent after the knock so I found a complete stock sub for little money. After rebuilding the sub with new bearings and rings (thankfully cylinder bores were well within spec), I fitted new KING bearings and Grant rings and had all the clearances checked and double checked by the engineers to within factory specifications.

After assembly, I fitted a new EQUUS mechanical gauge as I am running an aftermarket full management system which tach adaptor so my oil pressure gauge never worked before and I wanted to make sure all was well. Now, I find that the oil pressure on a cold-start would be fine at around 3 bar but as the engine warmed up the oil-pressure would drop to the 0.5 bar mark. After a vew blips on the throttle, the oil pressure would drop to zero and be so low than you could literally see the air pockets in the clear oil line. Naturally, I removed the engine and sent it back to the engineers. They checked clearances again and I checked and all was correct at which point they adviced me to fit a new oil pump even though my used one just needed a slight pump body shim to be within spec and was boosted on the relief valve.

I replaced the oil pump with an original Aisin unit and boosted the pressure valve again a 3mm spacer behind the spring and still the exact same result. Pressure is fine when oil is cold but when operating temperature is reached oil pressure drops. I am using a 10W40 Castrol Futron Semi-Synthetic Oil which in our climate of 22 to 28 degrees C at the coast is more than adequate for this engine.

Then some idiot who claims to know the 7MGTE told me that the engine has high volume low pressure and that it is fine to drive the car like that and after 1 2nd gear prod in the boost (0.5bar boost currently) I heard a bearing rumble. Lifted the motor off the mounts, dropped the sump and replaced all the big end bearings again! Only bearing number 5 ran slightly with no visible damage to the crank. My conclusion is that this engine is not getting the oil feed it needs.

Another source told me that the oil cooler adapter on the side of the engine also has a pressure relief valve and this could be the only other source of my problem. Anyone have oil pressure problems caused by an oil cooler adaptor? I do not want to buy another motor as I have felt this 7MGTE in all its glory and on a measly 0.5bar boost it was really strong so I would like to diagnose this issue. I have already bought a used oil cooler adaptor but before I replace it would like to hear other experiences.

I have already followed the other advice on the forum regarding engine rebuilds and the oil pressure woes so this is quite frustrating for me.

Thanks guys and compliments of season to all
Turbo6Supra - Cape Town, SA


Get a relocation kit, bypass the filter mount adapter or it have it replaced or repaired. I got rid of my oil filter mount and used an Earls billet aluminum adapter, and a Ams oil dual billet filter mount. I went with dual filters to add more oil capacity. The filter mount bypass relief could be the problem indeed and that's why I replaced it with a relocation kit. I shimmed my pump with 5-6 copper crush washers that are used on the banjo bolt of the water jacket on the thermostat housing. I used banjo bolt copper washers because of the diameter of the hole is larger than regular washers. I idle at 25psi when the engine is hot, and pressure is 75-80 psi at 6000 rpms. My oil pressure on start up is very high, and never had issues since going this route in 2000. I have used "KING'" berings forever and I have not had rod knock after having machined the crank to tight clearances, and refinishing the rod ends to tight stock tolerances, or installing new rods. I got Kings bering in a Clevite box and found out that Clevite does not make berings, and only re-boxes them. Anyone that gets rods re-cut to stock specs will have a knock free motor until something like low oil or detonation kills the berings. I rev to 8000rpms with a 7800 soft cut.

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sh...d-7M-update.&p=8936430&highlight=#post8936430