7mgte CPS connector/wires

[Alang]

12/1/2006
Got my CPS rewired 2 days ago. The shop soldered another used connector with good wires (from a pic-a-part) to the outside wires of the CPS. They shrink wrapped the connections, put some 1/4" flexible conduit around it and taped over that. Shop charged $30. While I might have done it myself, the soldering demo that I saw was a great lesson. It has been decades since I have held a soldering iron.

I only learned afterward that the rubber baffle into the CPS might be dispensed with so the wires could have gone into the inside of the CPS. Didn't find out what would substitute for the rubber baffle to protect the CPS interior. Anyone know or have ideas?

See below for the local Vegas prices from 3 dealers on these special order parts. Interesting how each dealer is choosing a different pricing M.O. Got lucky because if the LA warehouse has it and you order before 930am, it can come in the next am. Found out that the numbers I show below taken from the EPC pix are just pix id #'s not the actual part numbers. The online EPC I used will connect to the full part#.
#1 #2 #3
19127 CPS cover gasket 2.63 3.13 3.16
19107a O-Ring 2.11 2.51 2.54
19121 Cover 5.12 6.09 6.16
19155 Gear and Pin 53.67 63.87 61.64
19155 said to be not available in the US The others were special order to L.V. from L.A.

I spent another $1 on a piece of hose from the thermo housing to the turbo. Put everything back together with no trouble, fired it right up and set the timing. Everything looked fine.

Tip: I set the crank to the #1 compression TDC per the TSRM BEFORE I pulled the CPS so I was just able to plug it back in to the same position and the timing was virtually the same as I had left it.

So far, so good.

 

[Alang]

Starting problems again. Presumably it is from the wiring connector from the harness and/or back from there into the wire harness. I'm involved in the same non-specific wire wiggle, keyturn, wire wiggle, keyturn until it happens to start. Is there a way to test the harness wires for replacement to be sure that we get the bad area fixed?

 

[Alang]

Update: Everything was OK till about a month ago when I had 2 instances of no-start, adjust CPS wire then OK. I sprayed the connector with electronic cleaner and it worked fine for several weeks then 4 times and a complete non-start in my garage. Found that the black wire on the harness side was not very secure. Very suspect. With a spare used mail connector end, I cut and cleaned the wire ends, folded them over on the insulation, stuck them into butt connectors, crimped and away I went. I didn't solder because the last time was decades ago and at least this way I haven't permanently hurt anything.
Anybody see any long term issues with leaving the wires in butt connectors instead of soldering?
It seems to run fine, in fact, seeming better than before which makes me wonder if there could have been a usable but poor signal in all that time before failure? What is the nature of the signals that the CPS provides?

 

[erifann]

Yeah, I might have the same problem... too bad a new CPS is $400+ from Toyota, because having those wires exposed to heat over 20 yrs obviously does some spooky shit to 'em.

I just got my car running right last week, timed perfectly, then voila!!!, I got the "heatsoak/vaporlock/no-start" incident 2 days ago. Hadn't had one in so long (due to rebuild & tweaking), I forgot about that issue altogether. I thought I had run out of gas!!!

Understanding just how important the CPS is to the car running, I have no doubt it's the culprit. Furthermore, the ONLY code I could pull from the ECU was "12", which leads right back to the CPS.

Luckily, I have another CPS sitting around that is perfect for a complete re-wiring, complete with more-that-adequate thermal protection for those exposed wires.

I HATE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS!!!

Peace,
Erik

 

[3p141592654]

CPS Harness side connector: 90980-10591

CPS side connector: 90980-10590