7mge internals with 60-1 turbo how much boost can I run?

nixon662

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Apr 21, 2014
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Hey guys, ive had so much info from here and decided I should just post. Have some questions about my build and its capabilities. Hope someone has some senior input as not many people around here do this.

89 usdm supra turbo 5-speed

Lexus afm/550cc upgrade
Walbro 255
Safc fuel controller
Innovate lc-2 wideband

New gte block, stock GE pistons
Cometic metal head gasket
9.4:1 compression
Rebuilt head,all new everything
Act 6 puck clutch

60-1 ct-26 upgrade
Upgraded intercooler
Knock off hks atmospheric bov
3" straight pipe exhaust

Got the car started today and it sounds great! Engine is missing a bit and it doesnt want to idle for more than 2 to 4 minutes. I am guessing I need to adjust my timing? Im not sure if my grandfather's timing gun works for fuel injection lol. Its quite old.

Also have an issue with air/fuel. At idle I read 9.4-9.6.

I would like to boost to 10lbs maybe a bit more if possible once I get my ratio correct.

Is this possible? How do I achieve these power goals?
 

IndigoMKII

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May 9, 2011
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With a walbro 255 or bigger, you need to run an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator as the stock one doesn't flow enough. Since the stock FPR doesn't flow enough, it builds more pressure in the rail than needed.

When you get the fuel system fixed, you could probably run 14 PSI at 9.4:1 compression on 93 before it starts pinging.
 

suprarx7nut

YotaMD.com author
Nov 10, 2006
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You definitely need to sort out the tune and ignition timing before going any further. With that size turbo and the ge compression you don't have much room for error.

That'll be a blast when you've got it tuned up though. Cre let me drive his turbo ge motor and that thing had some snappy power. What a blast.

Its probably worth buying a nice timing gun.

Sent from my Moto X.
 

nixon662

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Apr 21, 2014
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Ok whooa whats pinging? I forgot to mention the fuel pressure regulator and its set at 30 psi as it was on the previous motor.

And as for the tune I am hoping the safc will be accurate enough to prevent detonation due to lean condition. As long as I run rich while boosting can I boost up on those pistons?

Cheers :)
 

IndigoMKII

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May 9, 2011
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nixon662;2011512 said:
Ok whooa whats pinging? I forgot to mention the fuel pressure regulator and its set at 30 psi as it was on the previous motor.

And as for the tune I am hoping the safc will be accurate enough to prevent detonation due to lean condition. As long as I run rich while boosting can I boost up on those pistons?

Cheers :)

Not necessarily. What electronics are these on? GE or GTE. The stock timing maps is what will make this a time bomb unless done properly. I'm not too familiar with the difference between the GE and GTE timing maps but on a GTE with that much compression, the timing might be too aggressive for the way the 60-1 will spool with the extra compression helping.

And pinging is detonation, you'll hear the valves rattle a little bit. It's from the timing being too aggressive with the octane of fuel used. Take a car and put in 87 octane when he should be running 89 or higher. On a slight incline at moderate loads, you'll hear a slight pinging and the valves chattering.
 

nixon662

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Apr 21, 2014
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Its on gte electronics. I do hear some noise from the head sounds like valve ticking or a spark plug/wire constantly shorting out. So how would I get around thw aggresive timing? I am going to buy a goos timing gun right now. And was gonna try lucas oil stabilizer to help valve noise.

Also this morning I pulled it out of the garage and revved it slightly. Oil sprayed out the exhaust about 5 feet all over the driveway. Turbo seals? Its been sitting off the car since August last year. Buddy has a stock turbo for me ill be picking up today
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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nixon662;2011533 said:
And was gonna try lucas oil stabilizer to help valve noise.

Don't waste your money on oil additives. All name brands in your area come from the same refinery in your area with different labels and all the requirements set by the API and SAE to meet the labels description. You need to fix the problem if you have valve noise.
 

nixon662

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Apr 21, 2014
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alberta
Got the fire extinguisher handy just incase haha but i would also like a video if it did happen. And i will share of course.

Just went for a spin around the close and fuel gets cut at 2000 rpm. Also have a code 31. Had a code 11 earlier today but replaced batt terminals and It went away.

When I timed it the notch was past the 15° mark so I adjusted cps until it moved to the 10° mark and still seems out of time a bit.

Also had a small backfire in 2nd when I let off the throttle. Never had rpm above 2000... could it be from the aggresive timing? Is the safc even capable of correcting this?
Thx
 

nixon662

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Apr 21, 2014
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alberta
Hey sorry for the late reply got busy with other things, i did not jump those terminals when i timed it and now it appears to be more than 20 degrees btdc. So should i redo my timing? It is running now but the air fuel ratios keep fluctuating between 10 and 16. And when I let off the throttle it seems to max out at 22. Wierd..
Also im getting a dyno tune as soon as I get 700 kms on the motor. Cant wait to see what i can get out of it!
 

suprarx7nut

YotaMD.com author
Nov 10, 2006
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Yes, definitely reset your timing. 20 is way too advanced. Back it off to 10 with the terminals jumpered and slowly advance it form there if you really want to. Personally, I'd just leave it at 10. My idle gets less and less smooth the further from 10 I go, plus you've got a few other complications to sort out before you start advancing the timing significantly.

22 is normally the max an AFR gauge will read. It means the AFR is 22 or higher. The 7M ECUs go very lean when you let off the throttle (because there is no/little demand for fuel). That's normal.

Report back on the dyno results. Should be interesting.