500 dollars!?!?!?!

[s383mmber1]

Ok guys, heres the thing.

I have exactly 500 bucks. Maybe a little more.

You get to pick my system!!!

I need a head unit, speakers, and if money provides, a sub.

But for know, please pick a good Head unit and Speakers!

Massive rep will be given for thought out responses!!

I listen to a lot of electronic/trance music with bass.

Thanks in advance!

William

 

[kwnate]

From schucks $32.99 Ships tomarrow!

10.99 ea 4" speakers

Two 300watt high power 6.5" woofers! $14.99

120watt amp $54.99

Total: $146.93.

I don't know car audio very well but I tried for you, cuz you're cool!

 

[Big Wang Bandit]

Nate wins.

Im ordering a new head unit next week.
A sony GT300 Here

The only reason I am upgrading my old one is because I want to be able to hook my ipod up using a 2.5mm jack. Im also staying sony becasue Im running a Sony CD changer in the back and some xplod 2 ways on the walls in the back seats. Little puny sony amp too.

Not much help but that Head unit is pretty cool.

 

[SupraDerk]

Yo Will, here's what I'm plannin on doing...I'll lend the idea to you...FOR A FEE!!

Screw the headunit idea and go with a Car-puter, 5 channel surround sound. You can pick up a mainboard for cheap as you don't need a beast of a computer to run music.

For my version 1 I'm using an ATX form factor mainboard (big one) but eventually I'm gonna go with a Micro ATX, the gamecube sized ones. Anyway, so you have the mainboard with 5.1 surround sound on it, then you head to radioshack and pick up a few stereo->RCA adapters and a few audio RCA cables. Run the RCA cables from the mainboard to the AMP.

Pick up an indash VGA monitor off Ebay for about $150ish and make sure it has radio capabilites so you can plug in the speaker wires to it and you end up with a spiffy custom setup. :evil2:

-Derek

 

[hot dayam mk3]

Depends if you want people to hear you a mile away or have some good quality sound from the inside of the car.

I am running a kenwood kdc-mp928 head unit which retails now about $250
i have kenwood 4" components front and rear. and i have a 6 1/2" bazooka bass tube powered by a 5chanel kenwood amp. this all ran my $500. its not powerful to hear far away but good enough to not hear the hks carbon-ti exhaust and the windows rolled down going on a highway.

 

[brad92t]

infinity speakers.
infinity speakers.
infinity speakers.

in this case reference series since you arent running an amp, but they will still sound great and will be even better if you add an amp later. if you already have an amp or are buying an amp (or have a factory amp) then go the extra mile and get kappa series.

you will not be sorry.

for head units, my rule of thumb is if it looks cool, you can afford it, it has the features you want, and has 4v preamp out then its a good choice for you.

 

[cartel1_950]

if you really want a good set of speakers pioneer makes some pimpin little 4' speakers for the doors. they are 100 watt rms and they sound great when cranking the bass up with the techno.

 

[92turbo4life]

Will dont spend to much trust me
i spent 1000 on a alpine 12' type r
a jl amp
and a alpine head unit

i swear everytime i hit the gas all the speaker does is bounce around and i always take iit out. i really use my head unit and stock speakers. it sound sgood and is very cheap=just a heaed unit! the amp is mounted on the back set but i do use it sometimes. lol 1st 1000 i ever wasted

id do a head unit with maybe changin door speakers

 

[NDBoost]

www.sonicelectronix.com will be your FRIEND got an entire sub/amp package w/ 2 6.5" speakers for $100 made by Audiobahn

 

[SupraDerk]

...they are 100 watt rms...

Don't go by RMS power, it is absolutely USELESS in car audio. Just a way for equipment manufacturers to make their product sound good. Just a little heads up :naughty:

-Derek

 

[Syris]

hey derk you mean max not rms

 

[SupraDerk]

No I mean RMS, RMS power doesn't mean anything when talking about car audio, it leads you to a higher wattage number...but that number means nothing.

-Derek

 

[brad92t]

No I mean RMS, RMS power doesn't mean anything when talking about car audio, it leads you to a higher wattage number...but that number means nothing.

-Derek

lol. :3d_frown:

 

[cartel1_950]

still 100watt 4' speakers sound great in the stock door pods wether or not the rms rating is useless.

 

[brad92t]

still 100watt 4' speakers sound great in the stock door pods wether or not the rms rating is useless.

while derk is is right abour RMS to a point, i'm not convinced he knows why or even understands what he is talking about.. no offense..

im an electrical and computer engineering major and ive seen this argued plenty of times.. there are more important stats than just RMS power handling, but they arent that relavent for the most part to joe consumer

rms rating is basically just a way to say how much power can be disipated by a load.. the higher the rms power handling of a speaker, the more power you can put through it continuously (obviously)... the more power a speaker can continuously handle, the louder you can turn it up without distortion being produced.

its really got nothing to do with the quality of the sound itself, only its ability to handle power given to it..

hopefully he can shed some more light on why he thinks this is a bs measurment by manufacturers.

 

[SupraDerk]

lol. :3d_frown:

I'm a CpE student too, let me find my book, I want to be clear on a couple of things before I post anything

 

[brad92t]

I'm a CpE student too, let me find my book, I want to be clear on a couple of things before I post anything

before you get started i want you to know that i am using the term RMS power interchangably with AVERAGE POWER or AVERAGE SINE WAVE POWER... even though its not really the same

the term RMS power is in fact a misnomer, but its become such comonplace in the audio market that theres no use in me trying to disuade people from using it..

 

[daledoe]

I could spend $500 on a head unit!!! If you do some shoping around you can find some alright stuff on e-gay. I don't think you will have enuff money for subs unless you already have a power wire and RCAs. good luck on the bargen hunting!!!

 

[SupraDerk]

DAMMIT! I just typed all this crap out and the forum failed me... attempt #2
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Assume:
V = 12V
I = 1A
P = 12W

For Average power,
Vrms = 12 ^2 ...divided by 2...and then take the square root of that
Vrms = 8.49V

Irms = 1^2 ...divided by 2 and then teh square root of that
Irms = .707A

Assuming it's purely resistive so the phase difference is zero, then the power factor becomes 1...(cos(0-0) = 1)

Average Power = Vrms * Irms * cos( phase angle of voltage - phase angle of current)

Average Power = Vrms * Irms * 1 = 8.49 * .707
Average Power = 6W


Using the idea of RMS Power,
Prms = 12W ^ 2...divided by 2...and take the square root of that...
Prms = 8.49W

The two obviously aren't equal, and Prms is no good because it doesn't rely on Vrms and Irms. But like you said above, the higher the power rating, the more power you can put into the system and the better your gain will be, (ie the louder you can play your music).

But the way that car audio companies use the term RMS Power, then mean it to be the average power when a single tone is presented which as you can see above is completely wrong. Giving the consumer the belief they can get more power out of the system than it can really handle

Oh yeah one other thing, this is for AC analysis, for DC anlysis, if you had a constant DC value, then average, peak and RMS values would all be equal to each other.

-Derek

 

[daledoe]

^^
Dam you typed that twice!!