so i was trying to torque my valve cover bolts to 22lbs as it says on the book and online and they fing snaped on me. i torqued down the rest at 10 pounds and that looks like its a bit too much for them. Any ideas how i can take the rest of the bolts out.
3 valve cover bolts snaped, need help please.
- Thread starter albo_bizak
- Start date
noah89t
get naked & boost a supra
I suggest you should check the calibration of your torque wrench....22 lb-ft is not a lot of torque, and is nowhere near the tensile limit of those bolts.
Are you using different bolts? I doubt you could break off a bolt using a phillips bit.
Are you using different bolts? I doubt you could break off a bolt using a phillips bit.
No need to check the torque wrench. Recheck the torque specs.
http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&P=32
Look for this key terms: in/lbs
http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&P=32
Look for this key terms: in/lbs
that's right. ^^^^^^
22 ft-lbs is way too much for 6mm bolts. :nono::nono::nono:
22 in-lb is not even 2 ft-lbs.
22 ft-lbs is way too much for 6mm bolts. :nono::nono::nono:
22 in-lb is not even 2 ft-lbs.
The valve cover bolts are philips heads. That should give you a indication that the torque is going to be low. Not high enough to snap bolts.
albo_bizak;995301 said:
So anyway, take all the bolts back out excluding the ones that snapped, and pull the valve cover off. Part of the snapped ones may be sticking out enough for you to use a vise grip to screw them out??? If they are flushed...
ok it is my fault for snapping the valve cover bolts i used ft/lb instead of in/lb. Anyways the rest of the bolts is sticking a bit down. Do i drill them out or whats the solution for that?
I'm curious as to how you used a torque wrench for the phillips heads. I havent exactly looked for one, but I havent seen a torque wrench that you could use screwdriver bits and such with.
yep, it's easy to do...
either get the actual sockets that have a phillips tip on em, or use a tip for a ratcheting wrench in the proper sized socket
I just went to normal style bolts on mine though as the stockers where ugly...
either get the actual sockets that have a phillips tip on em, or use a tip for a ratcheting wrench in the proper sized socket
I just went to normal style bolts on mine though as the stockers where ugly...
Here is the kit I have. I bought it at Sears with a gift card, with no immediate use. So I can't tell you exactly how, or how well they work.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952157000P?keyword=52157&sLevel=0
They also make larger ones, but this one appears to be well suited for smaller bolts.
Hope it helps.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952157000P?keyword=52157&sLevel=0
They also make larger ones, but this one appears to be well suited for smaller bolts.
Hope it helps.
Left handed twist drill bits. I keep a set in my tool box.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/hanson.html
http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/hanson.html
i tried the ez and the sears bolt removal i only took one out that was loose enough. the rest are still stuck in there. any other options exept replacing my cylinder head.
helicoil... take bolt that belongs in valve cover to napa.. tell them you need a helicoil kit for that... it will come with drillbit ...tap and helicoils.....
helicoil wont do any good with the bolt still in the head.
Ive had marginal success with left twist drill bits. With any drilling on a snapped steel bolt in an aluminum base the biggest problem is getting a clean center hole drilled into a usually non-flat surface without slipping off and damaging the threads thereby making it even harder to get the pieces out.
get a set of left twist bits, start with the very smallest and be careful to drill in the center. Then step up each size of bit. Along the way one of the bits may catch enough to remove the broken bit, bit if it doesnt, eventually you will be left with no broken bit. THEN, maybe you will need to helicoil it.
Ive had marginal success with left twist drill bits. With any drilling on a snapped steel bolt in an aluminum base the biggest problem is getting a clean center hole drilled into a usually non-flat surface without slipping off and damaging the threads thereby making it even harder to get the pieces out.
get a set of left twist bits, start with the very smallest and be careful to drill in the center. Then step up each size of bit. Along the way one of the bits may catch enough to remove the broken bit, bit if it doesnt, eventually you will be left with no broken bit. THEN, maybe you will need to helicoil it.