http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=042
I used a 2004 Sienna 150 amp Alternator to help off set power loss when the 2 Ford Contour fans turned on along with street legal HIDS, and Wipers, and Heater all at once. I used the original 7M bracket and a drop down bracket that allowed me to use a long runner FFIM, and allows me to keep my A/C.
This bracket looked looked better the 1st install with 1 bolt connector nut from Home Depot, but the bracket was cut too short. So I screwed up a nice look and added a second 3/4 adjoining bolt connector from Home Depot to drop the alternator lower to clear the Q45 TB cable. I will make a new drop down to look nicer in the future since this was a test mark up. I ordered a pigtail for the Sienna from my Alternator rebuilder for $20.00, and wired it in in minutes. Every thing works, and I just need to get the alternator rebuilt for 100.00. My re builder will rebuild this better than any thing I could buy from Auto Zone by the way.The alternator from a junk yard was $40.00, and to modify the drop down bracket already there cost $20.00 to the welder and $1.35 for the 1/2x1 3/4" adjoining bolt from home depot which had to be shaved 1mm to slip into Sienna mount. Install time after welding and wiring was less than an hour. Make sure you disconnect the positive on the battery before starting, and check wires connected to insure proper function!
A 175 amp fuse block and ANL type fuses can help keep wiring healthy, and since my battery is remote mounted in the trunk this is a good thing in case something happens like an accident, and required when at a Drag Race Track. You will need to switch the alternator pulley to make this work. To wire this in you need to connect the white sense wire to the sense on the Sienna alternator, which is the wire in the top right of the Sienna alternator when looking at it from the back, connect the IG black yellow from the 7m to the IG of the Sienna alternator which is top left side of the white sense wire you just installed. The last wire to install is the warning light which is the green and yellow wire from the 7m which is wired under the IG wire on the bottom left of the Sienna alternator.
I went with the Sienna Alternator because it starts at 150 amps from Toyota, and can be rebuilt by my rebuilder, or any rebuilder with out having to worry about if in fact it was wound to put out 150 amps, or any failure because of poor rebuild skills. Also this version from Toyota has less mounting appendages that you find on the Sequoia, or Land Cruiser which offer 130, and 150 amps. The Rav 4 has a 150 amp alternator also, but I think it also has like an extra mounting appendage that would get in the way when mounting. You can also buy it from any automotive parts store with out having it be a special order for lots of money as you would with one of those high out put alternators.lol Be sure to take it to an alternator repair shop so you can see them test it before installing your unit to insure that it works before starting out if you buy from a salvage yard. I would then get it rebuilt to make sure it puts out the required power as mine tested as low out put by my rebuilder, and was confirmed by my standalone read out as 13.7-13.8 volts vs my 14.1 volts from my 7m alternator. The problem my 7m alternator had is that when it got hot there was a drop in voltage out put, and when the fans came on the loss of power affected the injector and idle controls at idle only.
