I have on two different sessions attempted no less than 6 times to drop my completely stock 1JZ-GTE into a late 89 chassis. I even pounded a nice dent in the fire wall where the rear turbo will be sitting. I am using Driftmotion's aftermarket mounts and we can get the motor no closer than an inch from the studs on the mounts fitting into the channels on the chassis. It just will not go back any further. I am using a cherry picker type crane and have removed the front bumper and bumper support to get that last 2 inch advantage. I also have the rear of the car jacked up on extended height jack stands. I have been trying with the R-154 attached. Why am I having so much difficulty? It seems like it is a piece of cake for everyone else. Have I left something out? I cant pound the fire wall in on the center because there are all kinds of brake lines running along the wall. It seems like it is hiting on the plastic valve cover but even if I take that off there is a pipe that sits 1/8" beneath that so it would be pretty pointless. If you can offer any tips that you think I may be leaving out I'd greatly appreciate it. I have to move out of my house in less than 2 weeks and I'm just trying to get the 1J dropped in to simplify logistics of the move. Thanks in advance!
1JZ will not drop in- please help
- Thread starter nctexan
- Start date
I just dropped mine in last weekend, and yes its a tight fit. I also have the DM motor mounts, being dropped into a square mount 89'.
The only way i could get it in was to get the motor mounts as close as possible, then jack the rear of the transmission up, until its lightly touching the tunnel. (the farther you can go up with the trans, the farther back the mount bolts, will move) A couple more good shoves rearward, and bingo, it falls into place.
The rear turbo basically rests against the brake line heat shield, but it fits, Hope this helps
Also i had the motor mounts already attached to the brackets on the motor.
The only way i could get it in was to get the motor mounts as close as possible, then jack the rear of the transmission up, until its lightly touching the tunnel. (the farther you can go up with the trans, the farther back the mount bolts, will move) A couple more good shoves rearward, and bingo, it falls into place.
The rear turbo basically rests against the brake line heat shield, but it fits, Hope this helps
Also i had the motor mounts already attached to the brackets on the motor.
as your dropping it in put a jack under the transmission and jack it up it should slide into place. When i dropped in my 1JZ and 1.5JZ i did not have to hit the firewall at all. Yes it was a tight fit but it goes in
Damn I have done all of those things. I am using an engine leveler as well. We basically go through a cycle like this: We insert the motor/trans assembly into the bay angled as far as the leveler will allow so the trans is pointed towards the floor. Then it is a cycle of leveling out on the leveler, and lowering the crane, leveling and lowering. I get under the car with a jack and have tried both putting it under the trans mount, right at the flywheel junction, and under the oilpan using a 2x6, and jacking it up, while pulling on the whole thing. We I mean it gets to the point where it is literally .5" from going in but just wont budge any more. This has all been with the mounts already on the motor and these are the mounts I am using:
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-motormountfor1jz2jz7m.php
here are pics of the brackets on my chassis, the motor w/ the trans, crane, and leveler, and the engine bay:
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-motormountfor1jz2jz7m.php
here are pics of the brackets on my chassis, the motor w/ the trans, crane, and leveler, and the engine bay:
Did your 7m have square motor mounts or round?
That link is for round motor mounts that came on late 89 to 92 cars.
If your 7m had square motor mounts you need this,
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-1jz2jzenginebracketsearlymk3.php
That link is for round motor mounts that came on late 89 to 92 cars.
If your 7m had square motor mounts you need this,
http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-1jz2jzenginebracketsearlymk3.php
Hey, don't know if this will help, but I removed the passenger side motor mount/bracket so I could get the motor to its correct position, then I reinstalled the bracket and mount to the block and tightened everything down once both mounts where in the correct spots. This helped me free up a little room to move the engine around to get it in the right spot. Good luck!!
The 7M had round mounts on it and the bracket in the chassis is in the first pic on my post above. You were able to get the mount back on the motor even with the motor in the car? That seems like it would be next to impossible.
mkiiichip;1597009 said:
The mounts you attach to your block from DM are suppose to be on your motor before you drop it is. I put my on and I even loosely put my round ones on too, or square whatever you have.
Did you remove the fuel pressure dampener? I think of the '89 Plus the mount on the driver side can cause this problem.
What side will not go in correctly driver side or passenger? If you see the fuel pressure dampener has two holes as well so the mount can sit back if it is needed too. I would have to look at it. Keep me updated.
Did you remove the fuel pressure dampener? I think of the '89 Plus the mount on the driver side can cause this problem.
What side will not go in correctly driver side or passenger? If you see the fuel pressure dampener has two holes as well so the mount can sit back if it is needed too. I would have to look at it. Keep me updated.
92TealSupra;1597035 said:
It always seemed like we could get the driver's side mount stud to line up with the channel on the bracket, while the passenger was always 1" or so away. What does the dampener look like?
---------- Post added at 09:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:16 PM ----------
Poodles;1597041 said:
No, we have no problem getting the oil pan to clear, I know for a fact the motor was out of a jdm supra.
Okay, you see the dampener. It is on the stock mount that comes on the 1jz. I circled it in red. You see the other two holes next to the oil filter, I think to fit the '89 + from what I remember you mount that bracket you bought in those two holes and the 2nd ones behind it. the dampener will be by itself. You understand? Your basically moving the bracket forward.
I just got done building a guys car but it was a '88 so it stays in the stock position.
Let me know if this helps I really think i remember placing that it forward when i was doing my '91 Supra turbo 1jz swap. Hope someone comes in here to see if I am correct.
'
I just got done building a guys car but it was a '88 so it stays in the stock position.
Let me know if this helps I really think i remember placing that it forward when i was doing my '91 Supra turbo 1jz swap. Hope someone comes in here to see if I am correct.
'
Also I wanted to add this. Most 1JZ engines that people buy have been sitting for years. I have bought 3 1jz motors, all have some sludge, and in the oil pan there is lot few build up of just a lot of things. I always take the entire motor apart, order a Toyota genuine gasket kit and ARP head studs.. I am just saying it is worth it in the long run. I also run Castrol edge 10W30.
After it has been cleaned.
After it has been cleaned.
92TealSupra, I understand the location you've pointed out for the dampener and the two holes. I will check my motor right when I get home today, thanks a lot! I will also put some pics up on here of my motor with the valve covers off when I replaced the gaskets and put new plugs in. The motor is actually extremely clean and I've already got it back together. I'm just going to wait until I take it out to go single down the road to put in the ARP's and such.
Try this as this worked with me
Put the jack at the tail end of the transmission (where the crossmember is). When the engine is tilted and in the bay while lowering and adjusting leveler jack the jack up til it supports the trans slightly. Then as you are lowering and adjusting make sure the jack is following the tail end of the trans mission.
Put the jack at the tail end of the transmission (where the crossmember is). When the engine is tilted and in the bay while lowering and adjusting leveler jack the jack up til it supports the trans slightly. Then as you are lowering and adjusting make sure the jack is following the tail end of the trans mission.
OneJArpus;1597272 said:
Yes that is one of the locations that I tried and the overall method I was using. I was under the car w/ the rear end jacked sky high, one guy operating the crane lowering and the other guiding and leveling when needed.
I am worried b/c I noticed drops of oil that appeared to be leaking at the bellhousing/motor interface at the bottom. I replaced all the seals on the tranny and the motor, I'm guessing that maybe I put a bending moment on the trans and disrupted the rear main on the motor? Does anyone think this is possible? I guess I need to take the tranny, clutch, and flywheel back off and inspect the motor rear main. :-(
---------- Post added at 06:52 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:50 AM ----------
92TealSupra;1597105 said:Okay, you see the dampener. It is on the stock mount that comes on the 1jz. I circled it in red. You see the other two holes next to the oil filter, I think to fit the '89 + from what I remember you mount that bracket you bought in those two holes and the 2nd ones behind it. the dampener will be by itself. You understand? Your basically moving the bracket forward.
I just got done building a guys car but it was a '88 so it stays in the stock position.
Let me know if this helps I really think i remember placing that it forward when i was doing my '91 Supra turbo 1jz swap. Hope someone comes in here to see if I am correct.
'
Here are a couple of pics of that side of my motor. I do see the dampener, but I don't see how that would be interfering as the starter sticks out much farther than the dampener.
Can you show me the harness are you 100% sure that the mounts to your motor are from a Supra? Did you buy the trans + motor as a set? i see it looks like a new bell housing. I have yet to see a Company actually sell a JZa70 1jz not complete with wiring trans etc.
Get me pic's of the entire motor wiring harness ECU etc.
Get me pic's of the entire motor wiring harness ECU etc.
do not jack the rear of the car, i had a similar issue when i did this, the engine would not fully sit in place. I lowered the car and it slide into place with a little help from a friend or two. Keep the car level on the ground and try again