1JZ turbo upgrade advice/questions

[Dingoboy]

I took my '92 1JZGTE (non-vvti) in for a valve job & the mechanic suggested possibly doing a single turbo upgrade upon reassembly. I'm of a mind to go ahead with this, but I want to know what I'm getting into. FYI, I am not aware if this is a Soarer or Supra engine & ECU. Would love to know how to discern this.

My intent is not to build a MKIV killer, street racer, or drag strip sleeper. I just want a nice, mild streetable daily driver that can get up & go a bit if need be. I'm thinking no more than 400-450hp. Looking at the Driftmotion 57 trim single turbo kit for this purpose. The car already has a nice, fat Greddy IC & hard pipe kit, and an HKS CAI with an AEM Dryflow filter replacement. I've tried using the site search function, but I am drowning under the results & not finding a ton of the info I'm wanting.

My questions are thus... since the engine is exploded all over the back corner of my mechanic's shop, because it turns out I also need to bore it out & get new pistons/rings, etc...

1. Are the stock 1JZ internals good for, say 500hp? (I like to err on the side of caution) Now would be the time to do upgrades to the rods if need be.
2. Is the stock fuel system, which I assume is a hybrid of 7M (car was NA) and 1JZGTE parts, capable of keeping up? If not, which parts need upgrading & to what levels- what size injectors and/or fuel rail, fuel pump, is AFPR needed, will the stock ECU be able to manage, etc.?
3. I assume the car has a stock clutch. It's a 5-speed manual gearbox. Don't know if it is the NA or the Turbo tranny. Is there a quick & easy way to tell? Previous owner claimed the clutch was 5k miles new when I bought the car, and I have put about 10k miles on it since then (5 years, limited use due to leather seats & constantly broken A/C in FL heat). Will a stock clutch handle 450-500hp?
4. Would I *need* a boost controller?

Am I missing any other considerations, including PITA stuff I should just replace or upgrade while everything is apart & reassembly labor is already being paid?

Thanks in advance, and sorry for being a mod n00blet.

Bill

 

[seoul4korea]

I took my '92 1JZGTE (non-vvti) in for a valve job & the mechanic suggested possibly doing a single turbo upgrade upon reassembly. I'm of a mind to go ahead with this, but I want to know what I'm getting into. FYI, I am not aware if this is a Soarer or Supra engine & ECU. Would love to know how to discern this.

My intent is not to build a MKIV killer, street racer, or drag strip sleeper. I just want a nice, mild streetable daily driver that can get up & go a bit if need be. I'm thinking no more than 400-450hp. Looking at the Driftmotion 57 trim single turbo kit for this purpose. The car already has a nice, fat Greddy IC & hard pipe kit, and an HKS CAI with an AEM Dryflow filter replacement. I've tried using the site search function, but I am drowning under the results & not finding a ton of the info I'm wanting.

My questions are thus... since the engine is exploded all over the back corner of my mechanic's shop, because it turns out I also need to bore it out & get new pistons/rings, etc...

1. Are the stock 1JZ internals good for, say 500hp? (I like to err on the side of caution) Now would be the time to do upgrades to the rods if need be.
2. Is the stock fuel system, which I assume is a hybrid of 7M (car was NA) and 1JZGTE parts, capable of keeping up? If not, which parts need upgrading & to what levels- what size injectors and/or fuel rail, fuel pump, is AFPR needed, will the stock ECU be able to manage, etc.?
3. I assume the car has a stock clutch. It's a 5-speed manual gearbox. Don't know if it is the NA or the Turbo tranny. Is there a quick & easy way to tell? Previous owner claimed the clutch was 5k miles new when I bought the car, and I have put about 10k miles on it since then (5 years, limited use due to leather seats & constantly broken A/C in FL heat). Will a stock clutch handle 450-500hp?
4. Would I *need* a boost controller?

Am I missing any other considerations, including PITA stuff I should just replace or upgrade while everything is apart & reassembly labor is already being paid?

Thanks in advance, and sorry for being a mod n00blet.

Bill

Hey bill I'll try to answer the best that I can and to my knowledge, they have a lot of people here that can help as well.

1. From what I've seen the stock internals can actually handle more than what you listed.

2. As form the fuel system, I would look at changing out you injectors to either 440cc or 550cc injectors along with some sort of fuel management, I had Emanate blue but dumped mine to go stand alone, another thing to consider is your fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator.

3. I doubt the stock clutch will handle that much power for long, also you can tell if its an r154 just by the size, its a good bit bigger than the w58.

4. If you want to hit your horse power goal and be able to control your pressure than yes. Maven a good Hallman MBC would be a good option.

Lastly imhave a drift motion 6262 kit for my 1j, I would spend the money on a legit wastewater, nothing against the one that comes with it as I'm sure its good quality, but I would want to risk the what if.

 

[Bmettie]

^autocorrect lol

3. w58 slave cylinder is on the front of the bellhousing and a r154 slave cylinder is on the back side.

 

[Dingoboy]

Thanks for the replies. I'll keep checking back for more info.

I've never used any sort of fuel management system, so I'm going to have to gather more info on the options there & how they all work, etc.

From reading I had done since my post, I was getting the "new clutch" vibe. And with the block out anyhow, what better time than the present, eh? So I am looking into ~500hp clutch options, to be safe.

 

[seoul4korea]

^autocorrect lol

3. w58 slave cylinder is on the front of the bellhousing and a r154 slave cylinder is on the back side.

Lol I just went back and looked at my post, pretty funny lol.

Thanks for the replies. I'll keep checking back for more info.

I've never used any sort of fuel management system, so I'm going to have to gather more info on the options there & how they all work, etc.

From reading I had done since my post, I was getting the "new clutch" vibe. And with the block out anyhow, what better time than the present, eh? So I am looking into ~500hp clutch options, to be safe.

I'm actually looking too, I have a stage three action clutch and I hate it.

 

[rhs]

I recently put an HX35 on my 1JZ with the Driftmotion kit (no turbo). HX40 would be better for bigger power though. But you need a T4 to T3 adapter plate since those turbos are T3, if you want to go that route.

As far as the kit goes, for the price it's decent. The manifold is Chinese, so doesn't perfectly line up. I was only able to get 11/12 nuts on. The wastegate it came with definitely leaks, but you get what you pay for. The oil feed and drain lines/fittings work great.

Because the wastegate is iffy, I made sure to get a good boost gauge.

 

[slapsticksammy]

I'm looking at a Borg Warner efr 7064 and a cheapy divided t4 manifold

 

[Dingoboy]

^autocorrect lol

3. w58 slave cylinder is on the front of the bellhousing and a r154 slave cylinder is on the back side.

Thanks for the easy heads up. ID'd my tranny as R153 based on the slave cylinder placement.

Any opinions on this... mechanic has some 2JZ experience, but is really a Nissan/Z-Car guy. He suspects upgraded injectors should do the job without fuel pump or FPR upgrades. From what I have read, I'm not sure about that. Again... going for the 57 Trim turbo, 400-450hp.

 

[Dingoboy]

I'm actually looking too, I have a stage three action clutch and I hate it.

Just curious to know what's not to like about that kit. It was actually the one I was eyeing on Driftmotion's site.

 

[hvyman]

Ive had that clutch for almost 4 years. I have no issues with it. But it is starting so make a bit of noise but its been daily driven and beat on in those 4 years. Well worth it for me.

 

[Dylan JZ]

yeah, I've run the Action 6-puck for about 7 years now.. it's always been great for what I need.

it's been okay on the new 520whp single setup so far as well :shrug:

 

[Dingoboy]

Good to know. Just dropped 5 grand on parts with Driftmotion, but did not yet order the clutch- mechanic wants to get a look at what's in there, since the guy who owner the car before me was into upgrades. Pretty sure it's stock, but I'll wait for confirmation.

Ordered:
CP Piston kit
57 Trim turbo kit (400-450hp, enough for me)
ACL Rod, Main, & Thrust bearings
Walbro E85 rated 400lph FP
550cc Bosch injectors
Fuel rail, -6, 11mm
Aeromotive AFPR
Turbosmart e-Boost Street EBC
APEXi Neo AFC (Was getting too far above budget for full EMS)
HKS Dual Tip 3" cat-back exhaust

 

[sfgsdfg999]

Are you running an open diff at that power?

 

[Dingoboy]

Are you running an open diff at that power?

Actually, I need to go check and see which differential is on the car. Previous owner told me it was a stock turbo differential, but I haven't had any need to verify until now. (Car was originally NA, so he turbo diff would have been a swap)

 

[Grandavi]

BTW, I have that dual tip exhaust... You'll love it. Not loud, just nice low rumble. No drone. But it has a healthy touch of a roar at WOT. And only someone who really really knows a MK3 can tell its aftermarket.

 

[thevork]

Get a decent wideband meter with logging capabilities so you can get the s-afc in the good and safe ballpark
too much fuel and you'll get cilinder wash, (= unburnt liquid fuel will wash away any debris from the metal that scrapes off of the piston rings and make your rings not seat well)
not enough fuel and you'll blow everything up. Also, a wideband meter will help you set the base fuel pressure to something that will make your car run nice and smooth at idle, so you'll get some sort of 'base tune' that will make your car run good enough at first.

(I have the zeitronix zt2. it's cheap and works great, and you can connect your laptop for good logging.)

 

[scottiedawg66]

Get a decent wideband meter with logging capabilities so you can get the s-afc in the good and safe ballpark
too much fuel and you'll get cilinder wash, (= unburnt liquid fuel will wash away any debris from the metal that scrapes off of the piston rings and make your rings not seat well)
not enough fuel and you'll blow everything up. Also, a wideband meter will help you set the base fuel pressure to something that will make your car run nice and smooth at idle, so you'll get some sort of 'base tune' that will make your car run good enough at first.

(I have the zeitronix zt2. it's cheap and works great, and you can connect your laptop for good logging.)

+1 to get a good wideband

 

[MNBmk3T]

I've seen a bone stock unopened 1J do 900WHP with a 125 shot and a custom 71mm Borg Warner strapped to it. You honestly don't need to worry about the internals until you start going past 650HP where the rod bolts start to go past their comfort zone.

I also agree with getting a good wideband. They can help you save yourself from blowing up an engine.

 

[Dingoboy]

Appreciate the thoughts on the wideband. Was kind of leaning that way, too.

FYI, sent the AFC NEO back to Driftmotion & ordered the AEM Version 2 PnP ECU. Saw a few too many oddities reported with the AFC's online, and decided I'd get a better, more dependable tune with the new ECU.

Also, upon closer inspection with the engine bay emptied, decided that the wiring harness had to go. Stiff, brittle, and all bodged together with electrical tape. Tweak'd Performance to the rescue. Cam was AMAZINGLY helpful not only with making sure I got the harness ordered properly, but with plenty of insight into the engine swap itself, and even info on the ECU I ordered from Driftmotion.

 

[scottiedawg66]

Nice the aem really is the proper way. Looking forward to your results, should have great tq and an awesome powerband.