1jz troubleshooting

[JAMDUN17]

Got my wires back from Chase bays so I'm so close to finishing up this project. But like other swaps on here im getting a no start issue. So I did a search online and found some tests to do, checked the cam and crank sensors as well as all the voltage from the ignitor.
Crank sensor = 1,113 ohms and 1.1- .8 mV while cranking
Cam Sensor = 1,132 ohms and 1-3 V while cranking

I'm suspecting its a bad crank sensor but I want to be sure before I spend 112 dollars on one, also anyone know where I can get the crush washer for the fuel damper regulator, the one with the centering feet on it?

 

[supra1008]

I know driftmotion now sells those fuel crush washers.

 

[johnd]

cam or crank sensor problems would surly throw codes, any trouble codes.
just about any automotive store will carry an assortment of crush washers.

 

[Marotta1]

Another possibility. Check your water temp sensor (and wiring) as well. The car will not start if that is bad.

 

[JAMDUN17]

I ended up just ordering some crush washers from Toyota and installing them which stop the spraying. I wired the crank and first cam sensor directly to the pins then hot wired the fuel pump, cranked the car, then pulled the spark plug and sure enough they were wet with fuel (i hot wired the fuel pump and checked the spark plugs before cranking to check for any leaks and they were dry). Still no spark... getting the proper voltage to the coils (12v power wire and 7-5v signal wire), and all the voltage from the igniter is within specs. Getting lost at this point

ill check the water temp sensor next, Btw is the FP pin suppose to have 12v sent to it ? when i tested it from the relay all but one pole (the wire leading to the Fuel pump) had 12v to it Including the FP pin which the relay is sending 12v out to, i was told the the FP pin was meant to ground the power from the relay and which would make the power switch to the fuel pump, or something like that, is that right ?

 

[JAMDUN17]

Water temp Sensor checks out so i checked voltages of every pin on the ECU connector with the ignition set on run and the battery attached to another car,
X represents no wires coming that pin

1JZ_ECU_Pin_Outs_Supra_MK3_JZA70_Complete02 by kareem.richards, on Flickr

X Plug
1- Oxy Sensor Heater- X
2- S From Neutral Start sw - X
3- L from Neutral Start sw - X
4- ISC 4 - 13.18 V
5- ISC 3 - 13.18 V
6- ISC 2 - 13.18 V
7- ISC 1 - 13.18 V
8- S3 A/T - X
9- S2 A/T & CRUISE - X
10- S1 A/T - X
11- #20 - INJECTORS 3,5 - 13.18 V
12- #10 INJECTORS 1,4 - 13.18 V
13- EARTH, MANIFOLD - 7.8 mV
14- FC TO CIRCUIT OPEN RELAY - X
15- VF DIAG - X
16- FUEL PUMP RELAY - 13.19 V
17- IGF RPM1 - 8.54 V
18- IGT6 - 6.18 V
19- IGT5 - 6.19 V
20- IGT4 - 6.18 V
21- IGT3 - 5.93 V
22- IGT2 - 5.91 V
23- IGT1- RPM2 - 5.93 V
24- E1 GROUND - 16.6 mV
25- #30 INJECTORS 2,6 -13.20 V
26- E02 - EARTH MANIFOLD - 7.6 mV

W PLUG
1- VC VAC SENOR - X
2- PIM VAC SENSOR - .466 V
3- THA AIR TEMP -3.01 V (CONNECTOR LEFT UNPLUGGED)
4- THW WATER TEMP - 2.125 V
5- OX SENSOR - X
6- KNOCK SENSOR 1 - 17.5 mV
7- TE1 CHECK CONNECTOR - X
8- TT CHECK CONNECTOR - X
9- EARTH FOR 1,2,3,4 - 10.1 mV
11- IDLE AIR CONTROL - INCONCLUSIVE (COULDNT GET A RELIABLE READING)
12 -X
13- X
14- KNOCK SENSOR 2 - 18.1 mV
15- TE2 CHECK CONNECTOR - X
16 - X

DIDN'T BOTHER GETTING VOLTAGES FOR U PLUG SINCE I HAD THE PREVIOUSLY

T PLUG
1- BT SWITCHED POWER VIA EFI RELAY - 12.56 V
2- EFI FUSE - 11.92 V
3- M-REL SWITCHED GROUND THROUGH EFI RELAY 11.83 V
4- M CHECK LIGHT - 8.3 mV
5- ELS TAIL LIGHT INPUT - X
6- A/C CLUTCH SWITCH - 12.44 V
7- A/C CONTROL SWITCH - 11.08 V
8- SPEED SENSOR -4.73 V
9- OD2 FROM OD SWITCH - X
10- XXX
11- NEUTRAL START SWITCH FOR A/T - X
12- +B SWITCHED POWER FROM EFI MAIN RELAY - 12.62 V
13- IGNITION SWITCH ST2 -12.61 V
14- STOP SIGNAL - X
15- L3 TEMS - X
16- L2 TEMS - X
17- L1 TEMS - X
18- ECT FROM CRUISE PIN 7 - X
19- M A/T MANUAL SWITCH -X
20- P A/T AUTOMATIC SWITCH - X
21 - XXX
22- NSW SWITCH 12V FROM ST1 12.53 V

 

[JAMDUN17]

Anyone know if i can subsitute the ground at the rear of the head for one at the front instead or under the rear coil pack? Im replacing my ground cables with better conducting straps and realized the wire at the rear was missing.