1jz surging idle running rich im about to burn it

[OhBeTrice]

So ive read tons of threads and haven't gotten really any where.
Story time!! I have a sc300 bought a 1jzgte r154 ecu and harness threw it at the car
Re calibrated tps bought a 2jzgte map new plugs water pump main seals timing belt clutch ect
Motor is stock just fmic and down pipe straight pipe
Problem time
So cruzin at low speed a/f is at 13 but at wot it richins to 10, boost at wot is 13 psi. if I'm at high way speed cruzin a/f is at 10. The car at idle, surges from like 800 to 1500 while it does that the a/f goes from 13 to 20.
Can't find a vacuum/boost leak killed a couple cans of brake clean on it. Thought it might be the stock fpr but I doubt it. Cleaned the iacv. Opened up my ecu it looks brand new but I couldn't get it to light up the cel so idk what codes it has. What do y'all think it could be?

 

[rhs]

I hit 10 at wide open with a 13 psi wastegate, so that seems normal as far as I can tell.

 

[OhBeTrice]

Just made a block off plate for my iacv and now it idles

Rhs but what's ur a/f at 70mph? Mines 10

 

[OhBeTrice]

Went for a test drive with the block off plate on for the iacv. Car idles, it drove alright but as soon as it warmed up it hit fuel cut and breaks up with any throttle wouldn't even free rev, figure the map came unplugged but no it was still hooked up.... Water temp sensor???

 

[OhBeTrice]

New o2 checked spark in all 6 holes and there all great

Anybody out there??

 

[rhs]

Just made a block off plate for my iacv and now it idles

Rhs but what's ur a/f at 70mph? Mines 10

I can check this week. I don't drive it on the highway much so I don't know off the top of my head.

 

[f00g00]

10 afr is not normal at cruise. Should in the 14 to high 15 range.
Have you opened the ECU and checked for leaking caps?
I would put the iacv back on too.

 

[RacerXJ220]

I never could see my leaky caps.

 

[OhBeTrice]

Ok the ecu had leaky caps, so I grabbed a known working ecu. Put the iacv back on. Car idles fine now. But after warm up it breaks up under any kind of throttle just like it did without the iacv with the old ecu. And I can't get it to show me codes still, I'm using a multimeter on the w pin and the other multimeter wire to 12v, with te1 and e1 jumped....wtf

 

[OhBeTrice]

Oh and it still runs rich, so basically new ecu fixed idle and created a break up issue

 

[OhBeTrice]

My new ecu is an auto ecu dont think that matters both jzx90

 

[OhBeTrice]

So if I give it a lil has with the new ecu, it will flash but it's to rapid to count

 

[OhBeTrice]

Tried a 3rd ecu, same shit. So here's the recap new o2, New water temp sensor, new map, New fuel pump and new plugs tried a friend's coils, fpr and injectors. Recalibrated tps 10x. Cleaned iacv and tried a block off plate. Tested for vacuum leaks 1000 times. Car still runs super rich and after warmed up breaks up under any throttle. So I'd say it has to be wiring but idk what

 

[rhs]

Seems like the igniter is the only thing left to check.

 

[RacerXJ220]

I think the coolant temperature is what dictates closed loop at idle and during cruise, but you have to reach a certain temperature.

If it isn't the coolant temperature sensor, I recommend double checking the O2 sensor wiring.

HTH

 

[OhBeTrice]

New ctc, ohm tested wires same with o2 it's new and wires ohm tested

 

[OhBeTrice]

Rhs. Sparks great it's just getting to much fuel. What would cause to much fuel?

 

[OhBeTrice]

Noid light tested the injectors there all pulsing ok. What would cause it to run so rich? I can shut the fuel pump (it's on a switch) and the car will idle 15 min. Not a vacuum problem not a spark problem. This is a fuel problen. I think it's something in my 5v system because I can unplug cts, air intake temp sensor, o2 and it doesn't change a/f. Only unplugging map and tps changes my a/f

 

[RacerXJ220]

What is your idle fuel pressure?

 

[f00g00]

You should ohm out all the wires starting with the TPS, Map,AIT and CTS. The Tps and map share a common wire and the map iat and cts share a common ground in the ECU. Check the cam sensors and crank sensors also. I had one tooth off between the cam and crank and it missed badly under load so it is possible yours is maybe a timing issue. The polarity on the cps plugs might be off too.