1JZ-GTE No Start After Swap Need Help ASAP Please!!

[ANDR3AS]

Hey there not sure if this has already be talked about in a similar thread.

I have just done a 1988 supra 7m gte manual with a 1JZGTE swap. The motor was an automatic with a manual tranny. There were no wires on the tranny and the automatic wire harness was cut from the importer. I refered to these threads mainly for my information:

http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...ta-Supra-Turbo-Body-plug-Pinout-s-with-colors
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?43888-**How-to-wire-a-soarer-1JZ-into-MA70**

I did change up two wires.
1) the black-yellow from the first link(slot 10) and wired it to the black from the Ik2 plug harness for NSW
2) I had to run the wire from the starter to the black-blue wire in B1 harness that goes to the starter solenoid (because the importers cut that as well)
I have not wired in the B2 yet because to my understanding it is for ABS and I have different coloured wires.

Now the motor is in the car and it cranks but i suspect i could have injector issues. i used the old injectors while cranking to see if they were clicking(to tell if they were getting power like a noid light ) no clicking, so im thinking it could have something to do with the wiring or ecu
could someone please help me out trying to get this done asap so anyhelp will be helpful!!

Thanks

 

[ANDR3AS]

if anyone needs more information please let me know and i will get back as quick as i can

 

[jesse_rc1991]

spark, air, fuel, compression. main things to get engine running. if you suspect the wiring at the injectors, check for power and ground. just to a glance at the 1jz wiring diagrams and it looks like you should get power with the key on and the computer pulse width modulates the ground

 

[Vrank!!!]

^ where in austin/what do you drive? Both my gf and I daily a 1j car

OP, check that coils/injectors/ignition have power at key on, if they all do, check for spark. Can set the coil packs against the cam covers/head/whatever and have someone crank it. go from there, report back

 

[MadRPM]

If the injectors are not grounded, the car will crank vigorously and not start, so make sure the injector ground is secure

 

[jesse_rc1991]

^ where in austin/what do you drive? Both my gf and I daily a 1j car

OP, check that coils/injectors/ignition have power at key on, if they all do, check for spark. Can set the coil packs against the cam covers/head/whatever and have someone crank it. go from there, report back

south austin. im working on my 2jzgte swap right now so im just driving my eclipse

 

[Vrank!!!]

the injectors do have a ground circuit. it's called pin e01 on the ecu. it needs to go to ground on the intake with the other grounds, and it should if you left all the stuff together that should be when doing a proper swap. This provides the external ground circuit for the injectors. When it's time for an ecu to fire an injector, what it does is internally pulse the circuit to ground (for ex. #10 on your pinout is injector 1, and it will ground pin #10 for the amount of time it wants the injector open).

So... do what I suggested in my original post, and get back to us.

Jesse, we're northsiders. quite a few of us jz swapped cars around, not many mk3 that I know of.

 

[ANDR3AS]

so i checked my spark with a spark tester there was no spark but there is power at the connecters going to the coils.

l dont see any other ground wires that could be going to the intake that are not already connected

again there is power sitting at the connecters going to the injectors but when cranking they dont work but whenever i was checking the injector connectors for power the #6 injector would click as if it was getting ground, so not sure if it could be the wiring that i followed in the links

 

[jesse_rc1991]

1st spark:
ok if you got power at the coils the your good on the hot side, now we could suspect bad ignitor or bad wiring. ground side of the coil goes to the igniter which the pcm then sends the signal to the correct coil at the ignitor which pulses the ground to fire the coil. now what you can do, if you have a spare a quick test, is swap the ignitor to see if you have spark. if it continues...
1.)check ground at the ignitor to chassis ground
2.)check continutity from coil to ignitor
3.)check continuity from ignitor to pcm
4.)if everything check out possibly suspect PCM

2nd injectors:
injectors should get power with key on. and the pcm pulse width modulates the ground side so it will be difficuld to see with a DMM. better to use a noid light. so...
1.) if you have power and no ground check for broken wires from injector to PCM, as ground wire from injector goes straight to pcm where pcm PWM the injecotors to ground.
2.)again if all checks out suspect PCM

focus on one thing at a time though. first either figure out why your not getting spark or fuel whichever you choose. also make sure your grounds and powers are good at your PCM. if anyone feels my info is wrong feel free to correct like I said I just glanced over the diagrams haven't looked deep in depth.

 

[ANDR3AS]

sorry for the late reply my internet was down and my phone wouldn't let me reply
last night I took the ecu apart just to see, found a blown cap in it,not sure if it was anything important but I went and got a new ecu today.
I'm going to test the circuits for the injectors tonight hopefully if not tomorrow night.
the igniter is out of a running 2j so I don't suspect that as the issue but I may test that after the injectors if everything seems okay. thanks for the help again everyone!