1991 Toyota Pickup 4x4 BROKEN HEAD BOLTS

[suprarx7nut]

Hey all. I recently bought a 1991 Toyota Pickup 3.0 V6 4x4. Two cylinders had 30 psi pressure. time to tear it apart.

I just broke 3 head bolts in the block. They cracked loose, but after about one turn, they yielded and broke off into the block. I'm confident a few other will go as well. What the hell?!

Anyone have a good tip on removal? I'd rather not replace the block, but I may have to. This was supposed to be a beater truck for daily driving and camping, it should be a money pit!

Any recommendations? Toyota already performed the recall on the head gaskets in 2001. Looks like they reused the bolts and the bolts did not last the second time around.

Pics to come.

 

[mkiiichip]

Ditching the 3.0L for the 22RE would be the best thing you could do for the truck. That motor is a nightmare.

 

[Supracentral]

Ditching the 3.0L for the 22RE would be the best thing you could do for the truck. That motor is a nightmare.

I agree with that (ditching the V6 they are really crappy motors), however it doesn't answer the question.

Removal of head bolts should follow the specified torque pattern, just barely breaking each one loose, then following the pattern to ease the strain and distribute the load by loosening each bolt by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn untill the strain is offloaded. Now that you've broken 3, there may not be any way to successfully offload the strain on the remaining bolts.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I agree with that, however it doesn't answer the question.

Removal of head bolts should follow the specified torque pattern, just barely breaking each one loose, then following the pattern to ease the strain and distribute the load by loosening each bolt by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn untill the strain is offloaded. Now that you've broken 3, there may not be any way to successfully offload the strain on the remaining bolts.

I'd love to do a quick and easy swap to a 22re but I don't want this to be a project. Finding a donor car and all that is not what this truck is for. Although I really do hate the 3vze...

Mike, Im pretty concerned about completely fucking the head. The bolts are all cracked loose, but are still very tight. As if they're binding.

I'll have my machinists check it and hope for the best. In the meanwhile, ill have to figure out how the hell to get the bolts out and get the head off.

The exhaust crossmember is the biggest disappointment in this motor yet. Why not make the two headers join further down. Ugh. Soooooo hard to remove.

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[Poodles]

The torque sequence on those bolts is reminiscent of a TTY bolt, so maybe if they were reused and bottomed out or something I could see it causing the issue.

 

[NashMan]

Ditching the 3.0L for the 22RE would be the best thing you could do for the truck. That motor is a nightmare.

ahahahaha 22re is pile of junk compard to it's bigger bother

i had both and well i have to say i pushed the might 3 pretty hard and well it flew after some needed upgrades just suck when you have mate a gear drive onto it

 

[hvyman]

Those had a headgasket recall.

 

[NashMan]

indeed they did you only get oen free head gasket and half teh tiem you motor got rebuilt becuase the block was not flat

93 and 94 only year there was not a hg recall since they fixed the iessue back then by useing strounger head gasket and bolts

 

[fixitman04]

where did the headbolts break? was it at the threads? i have had them break before like that, but they were broken high enough that they could be removed with a visegrip after the head was off

 

[shaeff]

ahahahaha 22re is pile of junk compard to it's bigger bother

i had both and well i have to say i pushed the might 3 pretty hard and well it flew after some needed upgrades just suck when you have mate a gear drive onto it

Meh, for the minimal power difference between the two, I'd stick with a 22re any day over the 3vze. Search any Pickup forum and look at all the 3vze problems vs the relatively low number of 22re problems. Besides, the 22re is so ridiculously easy to work on, I can do ti blindfolded. It really is a bulletproof little motor, albeit gutless.

And the 22re powered trucks come stock with the gear driven case, which you know already.

suprarx7nut- I'd try to loosen them all bits at a time until all the pressure is released, then spin them out. Already been said, but it'll probably be kindof a PITA now.

 

[hvyman]

22re go for ever. Until the hg then they go forever again.

 

[Poodles]

22re go for ever. Until the timing chain then they go forever again.

FTFY

My old 22R in my truck was an early one, which didn't have that issue (timing chain guides). Damn thing is the definition of a beater motor, it just never quits.

 

[suprarx7nut]

update!

Got the heads off and the bolts came out pretty easy with vise-grips. The head gasket was FUCKED on each head. I'm shocked it had 150-160 psi on the 4 good cylinders. Each cylinder ring was TERRIBLE. Way worse than ive seen on my 3 7M blown HG's.

Pics to come soon.

I fully agree with the 22RE being easier to work on. My friend had an 88 with the 22RE and it looked like cake compared to this horrible, complexly routed, mess they call a v6.

 

[NashMan]

meh 3 liter is easy to work on

I owned both and i really not to fond of my 22re she piss easy to work on thus why it so popular



but Ivan Stewart 3 liter push well over 300 some thing horsepower

things to make the 3 liter a killer is

n/a supra afm (stock is the same size as the 22re)
n/a supra coil pack ( stock small pissing spark closely gapped plugs)
apexi neo fule computer
colt cams reground cam (stock cams are horrid small most likely to matched the afm)
set of header's
electrical fans

my 3 slow ways pretty dam powerful my 4 runner on 35's 6 inc lift and live axle was faster then my dads stock 3.4 04 toca

and blew up rear end's every outing




man this thread remained me on how much i missed that motor and my old 4 runner sniff sniff







now back on topic themost importain thing about doing hg job on one of thou's is


make sure the deck is flat most case when they re blow is from not being flat and imporper torqing best resalts is to use torq angle meter

 

[mkiiichip]

Make sure the valves are adjusted also, that motor likes to burn valves.

Come to think about it, that motor has made me A LOT of money, over the years. Maybe its not so bad after all.

Hey Nash, did you have headers that eliminate the crossover, at the firewall? That sure was a funky design.

 

[NashMan]

yes

my engine was 180k burnt some oil valve seals most likely

Doug thorley headers
supra afm
supra coil
apexi neo
wide band
flex alight fans
copper plug's gapped bigger
egr was removed
k&n filter
3inc air intake tube
honda b&m comandor fule regulator
colt cams reground cam shaft


I hate to say it but at the muds draggs know one whould bleav me it was a 3 slow hahahahaha

 

[suprarx7nut]

So I got the headbolts all out. That actually came easier than expected.

NOW I HAVE ANOTHER PROBLEM: Distributor won't fit. I just found out the heads are different in the distributor pilot hole and I got them mixed up. FUCK!

Nash (or anyone else): Do you know if the 88-90 dizzy would fit in the wrong head? my head still has a pilot hole, but it's about 8mm instead of the 10mm needed for the dizzy. Ugh, such a pain in the ass!

I'm so frustrated, I'm contemplating cutting off the pilot section of the dizzy shaft...

I know that'd be stupid, but god damn this is frustrating. The whole motor is together... this was the final step... ARGH!!!!

 

[Poodles]

Buy the right distributor from a parts store and return the wrong one as the core?

 

[suprarx7nut]

Haha, if the dizzy wasn't 200, that would be an idea.

I can't believe they wouldn't machine both to the same size pilot hole... It's a difference of roughly 1.5mm.

Ugh.

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[Poodles]

Junkyard time.