What a nice addition that would be to see "Edelbrock P&P High Flow Head for 7M-GTE" in the middle of a Summit magazine.......:biglaugh:
Not a bad idea though, really.
Not a bad idea though, really.
1000hp 7MGTE
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Reign_Maker;1215986 said:
1khp is for bragging right's and winning pissing contests only. Shit I would say anything over 600hp is for the same :biglaugh:
92nsx;1216309 said:
Most people have never driven a 600hp or more car. I've driven everything up to a couple of thousand horsepower.
For a street car, it's damned near impossible to hook more than 600 rwhp. Even with wrinkle wall slicks (which aren't suitable for street use).
Back when the shop was open, I used to have people come in and say, "I want an 800 RWHP Supra". I'd take them for a ride in a T-66 MKIV @ 600 RWHP, and they'd damned near shit themselves. When we got back I'd say something like "That was 600. Are you sure you want 800?" - most didn't and said that 550 would be just fine.
If you've ever done serious competitive drag racing, the track prep that goes into a professional track is different from even what the drag tracks do on the "Friday night public drags". They sweep the track completely clean. They spray VHT (glue) down like there's no tomorrow. I've had my SHOES pulled off my feet walking around at the tree.
Public roads don't have that. They have sand, gravel, dirt, cigarette butts, you name it. Once you get past 600, it's damned hard to get the car to hook, especially at "sane" street speeds. Most of the guys with over 600 HP want to "race from a roll" on the highway starting at 50 mph and up. We built a car for a client up in North Dakota which doesn't hook it's 335 R compound tires until you are doing over 100 mph. You cannot go full throttle on that car under 100, you simply smoke the tires. I'll tell you, smoking the tires at 75 to 85 mph has a serious pucker factor involved. It's downright terrifying if the car slides sideways at all.
Dyno Queens can be fun, but once you've had one, you generally don't want another. They simply aren't fun to drive.
Build something in the 600 to 700 RWHP range and you'll have the fastest thing on the street. Do it with the smallest turbo possible and you will blow the doors off of cars making 200 HP more.
My new motor for the MKIV is going in with a T-61 if that tells you anything. I want usable power, in the twisties and on the street. Not some massive dyno monster that can't do dick.
Very nicley put SC :bowdown:. Even 400hp (at the engine) in my 2 ton+ 4 door caddy V can't hold the power. TC is active all the way throu 3rd gear. And yes, it has save my ass more then once in conjunction with stability control, witch isn't widely available with after market engine management systems.
The only reason I put 600+ is so the new V (rated at 553) dosen't get excluded:naughty:
The only reason I put 600+ is so the new V (rated at 553) dosen't get excluded:naughty:
NashMan;1216397 said:
Lag on the 7M on the same set-up...I don't think so. Look at my turbo vs a 2J with the same one with similar mods, it has more lag than mine
As far as power band, it really depends on how it's set-up. My car revs to 8000 and rev limit set to 8300 and has a great power band.
Having 600 RWHP is fun and hard to hook on the street. Heck, my car on pump gas blows off the tires with easy in any gear, especially now that I don't loose any boost between gears. I actually have to let off in order to get traction. Traction control will be hooked up in the MoTeC once I get others parts of the car finished. :icon_bigg
Head design stock vs stock, the winner is the 2J by far but...both heads being fully built and you have a better comparison with much better results. The 2J is still on top but not like it would be if they were both stock.
1K: If I still had the manual in this car, it would be over 900 RWHP on boost. Maybe I need use the spray to get that mark now since this auto sucks back a LOT of power. It would only be good for track use anyway.
I think the important thing to remember is that this is the absolute beauty of a turbocharged car...
Out of boost, it's completely civilized. Hell, you can turn the boost controller down and have it pretty stockish. Turn it up and get into boost and it's a monster.
Most N/A engines in the over 500HP range are a hassle to deal with. 600HP MKIV is downright boring out of boost :rofl:
Out of boost, it's completely civilized. Hell, you can turn the boost controller down and have it pretty stockish. Turn it up and get into boost and it's a monster.
Most N/A engines in the over 500HP range are a hassle to deal with. 600HP MKIV is downright boring out of boost :rofl:
still sticken to my guns your car just has pixe dust all over it and big mote around it to keep the big black night away
upgradedsupra;1216627 said:Lag on the 7M on the same set-up...I don't think so. Look at my turbo vs a 2J with the same one with similar mods, it has more lag than mine
As far as power band, it really depends on how it's set-up. My car revs to 8000 and rev limit set to 8300 and has a great power band.
Having 600 RWHP is fun and hard to hook on the street. Heck, my car on pump gas blows off the tires with easy in any gear, especially now that I don't loose any boost between gears. I actually have to let off in order to get traction. Traction control will be hooked up in the MoTeC once I get others parts of the car finished. :icon_bigg
Head design stock vs stock, the winner is the 2J by far but...both heads being fully built and you have a better comparison with much better results. The 2J is still on top but not like it would be if they were both stock.
1K: If I still had the manual in this car, it would be over 900 RWHP on boost. Maybe I need use the spray to get that mark now since this auto sucks back a LOT of power. It would only be good for track use anyway.
Nah, he just didn't cheap out, which is the exact formula the MKIV guys use.
I've seen MKIV's blown up because people where cheap as well, at that power level you can't skimp AT ALL.
I've seen MKIV's blown up because people where cheap as well, at that power level you can't skimp AT ALL.
i think for the street 600rwhp is more than enough, I think 1k is a little too much for the street
NashMan;1216664 said:
Sticking to your guns? WTF are you talking about. lol I am simply putting out facts, pretty simple right?! Apparently, not for all. :icon_razz
I will attempt to translate what you said about pixie dust. I could only assume that you mean that I don't drive my car. If this is the case, then you have no clue about my driving habits and in which case, keep quite. I have broken many parts on my car from driving it and hard at that. Everything from, CF drive shaft, to traction arms, sub frame, end links, sheared off flywheel bolts, broken turbo, broke the OEM crank pulley, and having to upgrade to the ATI damper (custom made to handle my power) Nope, I guess I don't drive mine hard at all. :3d_frown: *this is a recording*
Next......:icon_bigg
PS: As for the knight, I won't even try to attempt to see what that's about. The fact is, the 7M can handle the power of 1K but...it won't be done cheap and as stated, it is pretty much useless unless you drive at the track anyway.
Duane
what i ment about pixe dust is every thing that you can image has bena done
like wounder land peter pan ect
7m 1000 hard 2jz pretty easy compared to the 7m that is my gun
as for the black night i was watching family guy when pete build's a mote around the house that keeps the black night away reson for putting it in not sure but meh
like wounder land peter pan ect
7m 1000 hard 2jz pretty easy compared to the 7m that is my gun
as for the black night i was watching family guy when pete build's a mote around the house that keeps the black night away reson for putting it in not sure but meh
I'm going to have to disagree with you here, dude. It's not *hard*, it's *expensive*. Mibrum doesn't appear to be having any problems getting those kind of numbers. Check this: http://www.gtepowered.com/index.php?page=html/gcurmi/profile.phpNashMan;1216911 said:
And I'm not going to let you claim that it's cheaper to do it with a 2J, either. Is there a cost difference? Sure - but it's marginal, at best.
The only difference IMO is that the guys who own 2Js are more willing to drop the money into their car to build that dyno queen. Well, and the fact that you can stroke the 2J even more, giving you a 3.4 or 3.6L displacement, which admittedly bumps your possible top end even more, but there is no difference between an 800hp Supra and a 1500hp Supra - they are both useless if you need to drive to the golf course.
GrimJack;1217034 said:
Exacalactly!!!! I've only did it once with my car @ 540rwhp and even with my drag radials on, I could spin the tires in third at will..........It was fun yes, but was it practical, no. I'm still going to install my meth injection kit and run my car on a daily basis at about 525rwhp. I've never been that practical anyways.......:biglaugh:
If Duane hadn't switched to an automatic, he would have eventually hit 1000rwhp in my opinion. It's going to be much harder in an auto and absolutely unnecessary.
Yet to see a 1000rwhp 7M street car that can actually be driven in that state of tune. (NOT saying it can't be done just haven't seen it yet)
IJ.;1217185 said:
True. And most 2JZ powered cars are damned near undriveable in that condition as well. By the time you get the headwork, cams, turbo & clutch to generate and hold all that power, it's certainly not "streetable". You can drive it on the street, but as I said earlier it's not fun.
And you had better hope you never get stuck in bumper to bumper...
Supracentral;1217206 said:
lol, I thought about that with my new set-up but now with the auto, it is much easier and streetable for me. I can drink my cappuccino and all.
Quoting Supracentral
"I'll tell you, smoking the tires at 75 to 85 mph has a serious pucker factor involved. It's downright terrifying if the car slides sideways at all."
Pucker factor, now thats funny.
The difference between a 600 hp street car and a 1000 hp street car is a longer walk out of the woods.
"I'll tell you, smoking the tires at 75 to 85 mph has a serious pucker factor involved. It's downright terrifying if the car slides sideways at all."
Pucker factor, now thats funny.
The difference between a 600 hp street car and a 1000 hp street car is a longer walk out of the woods.
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