RacerXJ220;1686841 said:Just personally, I'd take the 2J-GE bottom to 8K max when racing if you have a 74mm+ turbo. You're going to start making power on top, and when you shift you need to get back into it. It's a bitch to keep spooling unless you are flat shifting. Maybe two BOV's is too much.. Anyway, I would keep it below 7500 for longevity. The higher you spin, the less motor life you're going to end up with. Sounds like a good trade, depending on how you like replacing short blocks.
The 1JZ block is going to 8.5K for the rev cut on in case I need those extra RPMs. I do not plan on visiting even over 8K very often, but it's nice to know it's there.
I'll always think about the front main seal before going any higher.
I hear you, I don't think I'd ever feel comfortable spinning the 2jz of any flavor higher than 7200-7500 rpm's max without some major re-thinking of internals. As it sits right now, I found this morning my block has a lip from the stock pistons/life after pulling the crank and rods, so now I need to find out if it's hone or bore worthy.... I was NOT looking forward to buying new pistons, but I will if I have too I guess... lol Bidding on a set of used but good looking 2jzgte pistons right now on ebay, but they only come with the wrist pins. I'm still trying to figure out if I can even do used pistons and new bushings and locks.... My machinist (whom I highly respect due to his many personal racing/engine building achievements and knowledge of what he is doing) said it was not a good idea to go that route if I could help it... bleh...
I still haven't found an answer to whether or not the 7m 440's fit the 1jz ports on the head.. Wait... I have the head in the car and an injector here... BRB, test fit.
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Damn... left the piece of the intake that has the bosses at the storage unit.... : ( I'm trying to use my good 440's with my 1.5jz, have a bunch of top-feed rails too.