1.5JZ build, Bad knocking

[eyesoarer6]

After replacing the front main seal today we started the car up and it sounded great for about 2 mins then we had a knock and the car stalled. I thought it wasnt anything so I fired the car back up and get a knock, we let it run for a few minutes to inspect where the knock was coming from.

A friend of mine thought it was the valves cause the noise was coming from the valve covers. He had to leave so I called my nephew over to help me adjust the valves. I fired it up so my nephew could get an idea what it may be. He initially thought it was the flywheel, then he says its coming from the block and to check my oil pressure.

If I have low oil pressure on these JZ engines, what do I look into? When I googled "low oil pressure" it said to:
-Check oil level. level checked out good
-use heavier viscosity- I use 5W-30
-check oil pressure sending unit- it works and the light kicked on, still ON
-check oil pump- How would I know if I have a bad oil pump?

I read an article about changing out oil pumps and it mentioned not to use any sealant or gasketsealer cause it may clog up the oil passage ways.

When I installed my 1JZ oil pump I remembered using that Toyota FIPG on it, is this a NO NO? There wasnt a gasket on there, maybe an O-ring if I remember right but what do you guys use so it wont leak?

If the engine is knocking but still runs, is there still hope?

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Where are you located?

---------- Post added at 11:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:32 PM ----------

You still need to use FIPG on the Oil Pump and two O-rings. What is your oil pressure that you are getting? How many miles on the bottom end to use 5W-30?

 

[OneJArpus]

1. Check the oil level
2. Did you hook up the oil pressure sender from the 7M to the engine. If so look at the cluster and it will show you the pressure
3. If you didn't then you can not see what the pressure the oiling system has unless you put in a sensor/gauge setup
4. Drain the oil and check it for metal shavings (also take off the oil filter and cut it open)
5. refill and check oil level
6. see if the "knocking" noise will go away
7. If it officially knocks the only way there is hope is to rebuild the bottom end

 

[eyesoarer6]

Where are you located?

---------- Post added at 11:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:32 PM ----------

You still need to use FIPG on the Oil Pump and two O-rings. What is your oil pressure that you are getting? How many miles on the bottom end to use 5W-30?

Im in CA.

Not sure about oil pressure, Im going to borrow a oil pressure gauge tomorrow to check pressure.

I bought the GE longblock with 180k on it. Everything is original on it cause I dont have the funds to rebuild yet.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

That is the mistake you made, the 180,000 miles is what probably caused the problems. It could have been mistreated and revved its whole life.


We did a Lexus engine swap for a customer who did not even want to buy a set of plugs for a junkyard engine, being cheap, and somehow wants someone to test drive the car for 100 miles. We were nice enough to test drive the car with him driving for 15 miles. He picks up his 1991 LS400 with the "new" junkyard engine and goes out revving it to redline at a stop light. Mechanic was walking home and told him not to do that. He blew the pump seal on the tranmission the next day and now blames us. The converter was not even taken out during the swap.

This shows some people don't know how to care cars and this idiot is one of them and maybe a owner of this kind had that GE bottom end.


On the bright side, I have a rebuilt GE bottom end with ARP's and clevites. I am willing to ship as long as you cover it. The bottom end has ZERO miles on it. Block is prepped for MHG as well.

 

[eyesoarer6]

That is the mistake you made, the 180,000 miles is what probably caused the problems. It could have been mistreated and revved its whole life.


We did a Lexus engine swap for a customer who did not even want to buy a set of plugs for a junkyard engine, being cheap, and somehow wants someone to test drive the car for 100 miles. We were nice enough to test drive the car with him driving for 15 miles. He picks up his 1991 LS400 with the "new" junkyard engine and goes out revving it to redline at a stop light. Mechanic was walking home and told him not to do that. He blew the pump seal on the tranmission the next day and now blames us. The converter was not even taken out during the swap.

This shows some people don't know how to care cars and this idiot is one of them and maybe a owner of this kind had that GE bottom end.


On the bright side, I have a rebuilt GE bottom end with ARP's and clevites. I am willing to ship as long as you cover it. The bottom end has ZERO miles on it. Block is prepped for MHG as well.

I bought the longblock from a forum member and he says it was running fine when it was pulled from his car(hes going GTE VVTi). When I disassymbled it to clean and prepped it, I didnt see any signs of damage.

I'd like to take that block off your hands but Im currently unemployed and dont have the funds right now.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

I bought the longblock from a forum member and he says it was running fine when it was pulled from his car(hes going GTE VVTi). When I disassymbled it to clean and prepped it, I didnt see any signs of damage.

I'd like to take that block off your hands but Im currently unemployed and dont have the funds right now.

Well you can put in a new set of bearings and polish the crank. Don't run it anymore.

 

[Bigzavs]

one other thing to check

see if any of the flywheel bolts have backed out, the flywheel wobbling around can cause a knocking sound. just happened the other day with a friends 240