I was told by other SM members to try post my problem here. OK basically I have just installed a 1/2 na-t into my girlfriends 92 cressida. Its auto, stock mostly only has suspension, exhaust, and a filter. I've searched but haven't found anyone with a similar problem w/ everything i have accounted for. The 1/2 na-t consisted of these parts:
-7mgte manifold, ct26 turbo, and elbow
-440cc 7mgte injectors
-Chargepiping w/ bov, spearco FMIC
-Oil Line kit
-7mgte FPR stock one on rail.
-6 10ohm resistors
-TRD 3000 intake pipe
-couplers, clamps, all accounted for
OK i installed all of the parts above. The resistors were installed inline to the dominant 12v wire (blue w/ red stripe i believe) on all 6 injectors. The last thing i installed were the resistors, injectors, and fpr. When i had the turbo parts installed w/o these, the car started fine (was checking for oil leaks). Then when i installed all of the above, and tried to fire it up to just see if it did, the car refused to run for more than 1/2 a second. Ok it was more like it turned over for 1 rotation then died. When i applied roughly about 50% throttle and tried to start it, it jumped to about 4000 rpms, then WHILE holding the throttle there, it proceeded to lower itself abruptly to about 1000 rpms then back to 4000 rpms. By then it was too late at night to diagnose the problem so i just wrapped it up. I checked for OBVIOUS vacuum leaks but couldn't find any. So thats the situation. Now here are my questions:
1. Could it be running too rich? I didn't have time to install the SAFC or Wideband so could it have been pushing too much fuel? I didn't try to drive it so idk if it runs rich under load.
2. Do i NEED to cap off all the god forsaken vacuum lines going out/in of the intake manifold? I have them all running to their designated places from when it was na.
3. When i installed the injectors, it was late and the old intake manifold gasket, which looked fine and unbroken, was reused. i actually only cracked the top half off so i had just enough room to access the fuel rail. it was never removed. i know this was stupid but it was late and i just wanted to see if it could start. could that be the problem? a really bad vacuum leak?
4. I still need to retard the distributor. Looking at the dizzy from the passenger side, is it clockwise or counterclockwise to retard/advance? Just asking for my own info. Figured no sense search since you are looking at the thread now lol.
5. If i end up having a bad injector, is it possible to get away with the stock na injectors + vortech FMU + Walboro 255lph fuel pump for STOCK boost levels. The boost will not be upped on this car no where in the future.
Any input besides the 1/2na-t hatred aka. "go to gte electronics" is welcome. Tomorrow the the SAFC and Innovate LC-1 goes in. Hopefully i find out its just running way to rich to start out with and can change things around with tuning. Thanks in advanced.
-7mgte manifold, ct26 turbo, and elbow
-440cc 7mgte injectors
-Chargepiping w/ bov, spearco FMIC
-Oil Line kit
-7mgte FPR stock one on rail.
-6 10ohm resistors
-TRD 3000 intake pipe
-couplers, clamps, all accounted for
OK i installed all of the parts above. The resistors were installed inline to the dominant 12v wire (blue w/ red stripe i believe) on all 6 injectors. The last thing i installed were the resistors, injectors, and fpr. When i had the turbo parts installed w/o these, the car started fine (was checking for oil leaks). Then when i installed all of the above, and tried to fire it up to just see if it did, the car refused to run for more than 1/2 a second. Ok it was more like it turned over for 1 rotation then died. When i applied roughly about 50% throttle and tried to start it, it jumped to about 4000 rpms, then WHILE holding the throttle there, it proceeded to lower itself abruptly to about 1000 rpms then back to 4000 rpms. By then it was too late at night to diagnose the problem so i just wrapped it up. I checked for OBVIOUS vacuum leaks but couldn't find any. So thats the situation. Now here are my questions:
1. Could it be running too rich? I didn't have time to install the SAFC or Wideband so could it have been pushing too much fuel? I didn't try to drive it so idk if it runs rich under load.
2. Do i NEED to cap off all the god forsaken vacuum lines going out/in of the intake manifold? I have them all running to their designated places from when it was na.
3. When i installed the injectors, it was late and the old intake manifold gasket, which looked fine and unbroken, was reused. i actually only cracked the top half off so i had just enough room to access the fuel rail. it was never removed. i know this was stupid but it was late and i just wanted to see if it could start. could that be the problem? a really bad vacuum leak?
4. I still need to retard the distributor. Looking at the dizzy from the passenger side, is it clockwise or counterclockwise to retard/advance? Just asking for my own info. Figured no sense search since you are looking at the thread now lol.
5. If i end up having a bad injector, is it possible to get away with the stock na injectors + vortech FMU + Walboro 255lph fuel pump for STOCK boost levels. The boost will not be upped on this car no where in the future.
Any input besides the 1/2na-t hatred aka. "go to gte electronics" is welcome. Tomorrow the the SAFC and Innovate LC-1 goes in. Hopefully i find out its just running way to rich to start out with and can change things around with tuning. Thanks in advanced.