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It ended up just being air in the lines, as originally thought. Thanks

I did plug the sender in, but I wil double check it is exactly as you describe next time I'm near the car. Thanks

Thanks I'll have to try that, it was suggested by my step dad too.

Thanks for the link. I'm still learning, this site is awesome!

Brought it up on the hoist and listened around and couldn't find exactly, but it definitly sounds like the manifold. Dang

Drove the car around and noticed I had no oil pressure. What causes this? The sender I am using is from my old engine so I hope it stilll works. How can I fix it?

First I had actualy rod knock, now I have the tricky exhaust leak that causes a knock sound. How can I do about finding the leak? It is louder on the passenger side.

I've read other people on here re using their headbolts though? It's only temporary anyways, maybe an hour or so of driving on them, max.

Air in the system makes sense. Its not as foamy anymore. BUT my power steering is very stiff, probably because of lack of fluid? While it was off the engine it tipped over and a lot of the fluid came out of the pump. The fluid is clean and new, and it was changed, so it shouldn't be...

The headgasket is a OEM style gasket. Just to hold me over until spring. I used the factory studs (yikes!) with the recommened torque I found on here for the fac. studs. Not the best route, but it's just a band-aid for now. Plus, I won't be driving the car until the spring :( I put in a new...

Why not fram? I've had a few people recommend them to me? So I shouldn't listen to the dipstick, just put a extra quart then the capacity?

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH JDUB YOU ARE MY HERO. IT STARTS AND RUNS! But, still more problems: exhuast leak somewhere, its loud on the drivers side. Stepdad said it was exhaust. I'd imagine it's okay to run with the exhaust leak? Power steering fluid (ATF fluid, rather) is foamy when shut...

Nevermind I figured out what it means. Got it all buttoned back up, leaving the timing cover off, and we will see if she fires!

The cam marks are aligned and same with on the crank at 0*. When I put the CPS back in the hole (after aligning the hole with the groove as the TSRM says) I have to twist it to make it go in all the way. Is this what you mean with your picture twisting the rotor one tooth the opposite...

Stupid question. To check the CPS alignment, and for it to actually benefit me, the engine has to be at TDC before the CPS is re-installed, right?

I keyed the ignition into the on position and checked for codes... the light continuously blinked, so the TSRM says there is nothing wrong???

Fixed the problem with the dash lights always staying on. They only go on as req'd now. Found the ground wires and secured them to the intake manifold. Tested the fuel pump from the link you gave me in the TSRM and there was the noise it was describing. So that's a good sign. Still have to...

When you say stop it dead you mean just not start? Because it cranks still... I will check tomorrow. Thanks for all the help so far jdub, I appreciate it.

Okay thanks, I will check those things. I am really worried about the 3 grounds though, I dont see. Will making the CPS align fix most of the problem? I will check the fuel pump too. Thanks:)

May have found a minor problem; the ground for the coil pack was just dangling. Where does it connect to specifically? Or can I connect it anywhere it will reach? I will look for the spot in the meantime. Where are these ground(s) you are talking about on the upper intake manifold. I don't...