So I got a ticket a while back for a speed I wasn't even capable in my beater a '99 single cam saturn and lost. Now heres the thing postponed the ticket once came for consult on the forums and hired Peter Humblias, great guy by the way. We went to court THREE times no officer on top of I got...
I have both motors sitting in my basement down to bare block and with what I have read up on you can use either one and make the 700 range with proper machine work I myself like being unique and still run a twin setup but its all about the budget if you have a Non Turbo 7M and want to cruise...
I rebuilt everything as per TSRM I never go against that side gear play and everything was checked I just shimmed it a little bit more than what was recommended and I had it this way for close to two years now but like I said I have toped this out in 5th and the added drifting so I call stress...
goodyear eagle GT tires 225/50/16 no traction till 3rd on a 4.30 shimmed and locked ypipe combo 3in intake and exhaust 2degree ignition advance 4000-5500 3degree ignition advance 6000-7500 fuel 11.4afr boost 19lbs on OEM twins maintained by an Emanage blue and yes CT12A's
Hey everyone so I reshimmed my 4.30's a while ago and had a blast but after a while of fun and drifting I kept getting a bad clunk and felt like a dead axle so I cracked her open and the casing was ripped off on the gear side
I had a Y-pipe combo for 2 years on my 1J at 18lbs, I loved the concept and want to do it for the CT20s. Btw ct12s are a 4 bolt flange ct20s are like a 4in wide 5 bolt just bigger than GT28s which they will be anyways but if the pop up again I'd buy the drewgo manifolds to make life easier
I get bored really easily my other route was making a custom Y-pipe to go 3.5 to 3.75 or 4in all the way for upcoming 2012 disco potato upgrade and 20lbs I don't know already been planning for indoor winter season.
So I been looking around like a mad man seen them on forums and projects but never mention how. I am looking to get turbo exhaust housing flanges to do a custom setupbut noone seems to carry them,do I call up machine shops or a trip to home depot?
I have Stance and i'm dropped on stock wheels with a swap love it nice smooth ride sway bars would be nice though stock ones aren't up to the task I recommend them highly they will rub a little but give them about a month to fully settle and your good
WOW well I been looking and found adjustable arms for the rear, but the front I cant find anything. Are there any upper arms that we can use like IS300 or MKIV arms I saw some JIC ones but they we're crazy money.
I pulled my CT12's out after getting some time off from both jobs and I was looking at the back housings. It looks like the same waste gates are used I checked the specs but could I just have the back housings drilled out to accept a CT20 cartidge?
I was about to do the CT12a upgrade the guy at evergreen turbo sounded very unsure of himself so Im taking on the CT20 upgrade. I took the twins from 17psi which I ran for a year I hit 20psi they were done. I estimate that I made 370Hp and close to a low 12sec car since I came head to head with...
I don't know much about USDM turbos but the JDM 2JZ setup is alot more efficent than 1J. Bolting them up isn't much of a problem, it's how lazy you are I had both on my 1J
I have Stance GR+ coilovers stock sawblades are pretty much flush with the fender so I would say about a 3in. drop. I did the alignment myself at my job thats when I saw the space because jack stands never do you justice. Alignment specs are Camber 3.0, toe 0, caster around high 9's. I just hate...
I have a big drop but I read elsewhere that the bolt and or place where they sit may be bent but im maxed out. I just want a really nice drop and have levelish LCA's. Adjustable arms are ridiculous money I just need some length in my upper arms and level out the lowers thats all
I don't want to move them completely just raise it up a little bit as for the arms I meant the uppers I have 3.0 degrees of camber I wanted around a 1.5-2.0 degree its a daily project
I searched around some more still very little info out there. Something else that crossed my mind would MKIV arms match up and be longer? I wouldnt see why not I just want a flush and sexy MKIII on sawblades and a nice ride without a fight.
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