I'm not running a relocated oil filter.
I didn't reuse the oil pan. I bought a 2nd rear sump motor with a new oil pan. The original one was full of shavings.
The 2nd motor had good pressure from the start to the day I parked it. If it had an oil pressure issue, it wasn't registering on the...
I swapped a friends old 1jz engine into my current supra and it started acting up within 200 miles, the oil pressure was low and it the RPMs dropped when I hit the clutch. It was crankwalk. I attributed this to him running a really heavy clutch on the motor with no neutral start disable. The end...
I've had this argument before... but on the supra 1jz harness at least, the igniter is grounded through the harness itself. The car will run with the igniter hanging in the air. Hell, there's a youtube video of it.
If your harness ground is damaged somehow, that's another story.
As long as the crank timing gear spins with the crank then it sounds fine. Were either your cam or crank sensors rewired at some point? They are polar, so if the wires get swapped around the sensor won't work.
It's definitely slowed down around here. All the same, I have to applaud everyone who's still around and still working on and innovating for our cars. Over time some parts have gotten harder to get and more expensive, but there is also so much more aftermarket than there used to be 9 years ago.
I bet it can be done, I made 450hp on a 2jz with a hy35 at 14psi and just a rough tune.
I have a he351cw (basically a revised hy35) on a 1jz now, so we'll see what that can do.
Disable your clutch start switch, simple and effective. I have been able to run the RPS 3200 crank-walker supreme just fine on a healthy engine and just that simple mod.
With only 4 ignition channels you would have to run the 1jz in waste spark, and put the coils in pairs. The mk3 has no fuel pump controller so there's not much loss there, for the MK4 or SC it could be useful.
I personally don't recommend it, I have heard from others that it works though. The resistance values are too far off of the factory ones to be safe on a 2jz ECU IMHO. Your best bet is to go with the acura legend box, which has 6 resistors in it instead of 3.
They are not identical, but close enough. I ran both a JDM supra ECU and an aristo ECU on the same harness without changing anything. The JDM supra harness has a wire to the ecu for a tach output the aristo doesn't have, that's the only difference I know for sure.
Ran a hy35 on a 2jz and put down 450hp, full spool by 3k. I'm sure the hx40 will come on a little slower but put down more at lower boost levels. Pick the right one though (7 blade, billet wheel) and it will probably spool almost as fast.
What are the symptoms? Are you sure its not the wiring? Do you get a check engine light when you turn the key to 'ON' but don't start the car.
As for swapping to a 2jz ECU, its not plug and play. You'll need an adapter harness and then you need to run 3 new wires to convert the injection to...
It's hard to tell from the pic, but can't you just clock the compressor housing straight down and put an elbow on it? Or would it hit the exhaust manifold?
I ran a hy35 on a 2jz and didn't run a restrictor. I found conflicting information about it and decided I'd rather have too much flow than not enough. Never had any problems.
For the drain, just unbolt the stock tube on bolt on an adapter, any standard oil return flange will fit. It's the same...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.