It's not too hard to get a car running with a Stinger...there are a couple things to know, but it's pretty easy as standalones go.
When you get ready to get going, just PM me your number and I'll try to help you through the startup stuff. It's just process..and you should be able to pull it...
You don't need a wideband to know if your motor starts...and you already have a map. It WAS running previously on that map, correct?.
If you had it running previously..or if you know that it's a good map, just move the trim up and down until it starts and runs well on the new injectors. If...
I'm pretty sure he's talking about 200-240 RPM to ID the cell.
If it's too rich, it will never start...or blow out black smoke when it does start. He was saying that it would start after it cranked for a while...that means that it's just a little too lean deal, because it'll start with a...
Just add one or two at a time in that cell and try it. You'll know pretty quickly if it helps.
Just remember that you only get one truly cold start every 6-8 hours. Once you start it...or crank it for a while, it's not a cold start anymore. There's some heat and some fuel in the cylinder...
You don't add fuel where it's idling, you add it where it's cranking. It doesn't idle and crank in the same cells...it cranks at/near atmospheric pressure at a few hundred RPM and idles at a lower pressure at around 1000.
If you want to add cranking fuel, the main map is where you do it.
Does it start ok? What exactly is the problem?
If you want more starting fuel (while cranking), just add it to the appropriate cell(s) in the fuel map.
It's only that 40* range that it doesn't start in? That's pretty odd. What if you started it cold (starts fine) and you got it to 140 and shut it off? Would it fire right back up?
You might try and discern whether the hard start is a too rich or too lean condition. Most of the time I have a...
Sequential injection is a nice feature WHEN things are happening really fast. :)
It means that the injectors are opening and closing once -- for twice as long -- rather than opening and closing twice for half as long. It has the practical effect of stretching out the operating range of the...
It's about the same as the other case...-35% trim should be close enough to get it up and running. If you have a good tune already, I would run the trim up and down a bit -- a little above and a little below -- until it runs about the same as it did.
Different types of injectors aren't...
That's most likely why your idle is too high.
The motor would quit running long before you could hurt it. Really, at anywhere less than full throttle, a lambda sensor is close to useless as a tuning tool...even at full throttle, it has only limited use without a dyno. If you make the car...
I've said it a million times...and I'll probably be saying it a million more times.
STEP AWAY FROM THE LAMBDA GAUGE.
:)
Really...
For one...The idle being too high has nothing to do with the ECU. There's too much air getting into the engine. Either the IAC is partially open, you have a...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.