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It's not too hard to get a car running with a Stinger...there are a couple things to know, but it's pretty easy as standalones go. When you get ready to get going, just PM me your number and I'll try to help you through the startup stuff. It's just process..and you should be able to pull it...

You don't need a wideband to know if your motor starts...and you already have a map. It WAS running previously on that map, correct?. If you had it running previously..or if you know that it's a good map, just move the trim up and down until it starts and runs well on the new injectors. If...

I'm pretty sure he's talking about 200-240 RPM to ID the cell. If it's too rich, it will never start...or blow out black smoke when it does start. He was saying that it would start after it cranked for a while...that means that it's just a little too lean deal, because it'll start with a...

Just add one or two at a time in that cell and try it. You'll know pretty quickly if it helps. Just remember that you only get one truly cold start every 6-8 hours. Once you start it...or crank it for a while, it's not a cold start anymore. There's some heat and some fuel in the cylinder...

You don't add fuel where it's idling, you add it where it's cranking. It doesn't idle and crank in the same cells...it cranks at/near atmospheric pressure at a few hundred RPM and idles at a lower pressure at around 1000. If you want to add cranking fuel, the main map is where you do it.

Does it start ok? What exactly is the problem? If you want more starting fuel (while cranking), just add it to the appropriate cell(s) in the fuel map.

I never connect anything to the ECU, lambda-wise. I don't really see a good reason to do it.

It's only that 40* range that it doesn't start in? That's pretty odd. What if you started it cold (starts fine) and you got it to 140 and shut it off? Would it fire right back up? You might try and discern whether the hard start is a too rich or too lean condition. Most of the time I have a...

Sequential injection is a nice feature WHEN things are happening really fast. :) It means that the injectors are opening and closing once -- for twice as long -- rather than opening and closing twice for half as long. It has the practical effect of stretching out the operating range of the...

It's about the same as the other case...-35% trim should be close enough to get it up and running. If you have a good tune already, I would run the trim up and down a bit -- a little above and a little below -- until it runs about the same as it did. Different types of injectors aren't...

I would just do a 35% negative fuel trim...since the injectors are about 35% larger. That should get you in the ballpark.

Yep...most of the time, it's cheaper to fly a person out than it is to ferry a car out for sure...at least for some tuning. :biglaugh:

I work pretty cheap...LOL...and I like to travel. :D

That's most likely why your idle is too high. The motor would quit running long before you could hurt it. Really, at anywhere less than full throttle, a lambda sensor is close to useless as a tuning tool...even at full throttle, it has only limited use without a dyno. If you make the car...

I've said it a million times...and I'll probably be saying it a million more times. STEP AWAY FROM THE LAMBDA GAUGE. :) Really... For one...The idle being too high has nothing to do with the ECU. There's too much air getting into the engine. Either the IAC is partially open, you have a...

When you use a USB/serial adapter, you have to figure out which "port" the computer is using, then select that port in the stinger software. The way I locate it is to go to the Control Panel and "search for new hardware". The USB adapter will show up on one of the comm ports as a device.

You have to play around with the base duty cycle until you can manually control the valve. Just sweep it up (or down) a bit until the idle increases.

We already have an AEM tuning thread...and several other AEM-related threads, so I moved it to the most relevant one. It's right above where you posted...or at least for me it is. :D Let me try approving it and see if it shows up. I didn't think I had to do that if I merged it. I'm sorry for...

Dunno why this didn't bump up when I replied...

Pretty much...if it happens at light load, it's not gonna be an ignition problem. In my experience, they don't really disappear when you add load, they get worse. If you have a solid tach reading, it's not likely the crank trigger either. If I had to guess...it's a tuning deal. People...