Recent content by lifted

cruise can be deleted. acs, fuel pressure, and brake booster all should stay.

no, you can not get rid of the vacum system. try this. unhook the vacum to your brake booster. cap it off and drive around the block. then tell me if you want to work that hard to brake. also without vacum the fuel presure would be set. i can only imagine the problems that would cause. hitting...

syncros are going out. shift to reverse first and then to 1st. this happens from riding the clucth. instead of letting the clutch out evenly with the gas when starting out, your giving it more gas and slowly letting the clutch out hence the term riding the clutch. i know because ive done it to 3...

second on the apexi, they are pricey but the best always is.

i had this same problem, it ended up being a o ring on one of the injectors.

lets quit argueing and get to the info. i would like some pics of where you installed the feed and drain for the turbo oil.

if i just turn the door lock with the key it will deactivate mine. i bought my car with a aftermarket alarm, and they left the factory one installed. they dont work well together, sometimes when i hit the unlock button on my remote it sets off the factory alarm.

mine did the same thing, it was a blown head gasket.

i was wondering why the spelling was so bad.

it would make things alot easier if you just took the hood off. just remember to mark it before you take it off.

i have a pre 89( no air bag) burgandy one.

as far as i know you dont have to convert anything to run it off of used cooking oil. you just need to filter all the crap out of the cooking oil.

i would also think you might be getting a touch to much fuel.

someone told me that wasnt on the 86.5 oil pans, only 87 and later.

where is the factory oil cooler return at? if i understand you right it wasnt already open so you had to tap it?