Recent content by Bulkierzero

haha, nevermind I found it. When I was depinning the harness I accidently got rid of that connector. Went through my bag of wires and found it.

Pics of the connecter?

Theres a big connector that leads to where the knock sensors go and i figured that connector would have the trigger wire but it doesn't.

As the title states I am quite confused onto where the starter wire is. I believe it to be a larger gauge black wire. And i've looked through the whole harness and its not to be found anywhere. If anyone can give me some insight that would be great. The engine and harness is from a 91 soarer.

If your running high compression you dont need high boost to make power. running less than 10 psi can make a ge in the 400s which i consider high hp. And also if your running E85 or a stand alone ecu detonation isn't really a problem. I believe the reason for detonation being na the ecu pushes...

Hi thanks for getting back to me. So does the sc400 ecu pinouts match the soarer harness?

The gte and ge have different heads and pistons but they both will hold high hp.

Im pretty sure rods are the same. also the gte has oil squirters, and a different oil pump.

If its a non vvti 2jz the rods and pistons are the strength as the gte. If your in a place where E85 is readily available I would just get a ge turbo manifold and an intercooler and run it high compression. And you dont really need a ffim unless your running pretty high horsepower.

My bad the part number for my ecu is 89661-24220 the one in my original post I meant to say is the closest one I can find.

Ok so I bought a 1uz and its now sitting in my car and the guy I bought it from also sent me the ecu for this engine by mail. When I received it the ecu looked like it was ran over a few times by a forklift. Opened it up and the circuit board is cracked in half. The problem i'm having is I cant...

yea this is real late i know. but i had my old shop teacher who is basically a genius when it comes to cars to help me and we pryed the living shit out of it till it came off. There was no real cause on why it was so difficult to remove.

Nope I didn't forget the washers.

I don't think it was that much over torqued because i could use my pinky to loosen them. And after i got them fixed i planned on buying another torque wrench. I checked and checked and rechecked. all of the nuts are off except for the ones i put back in. And i spoke to three shops and they said...

So ive got a 2jz im putting together and the cam cap threads in the head stripped so I fixed all of them but they stripped again. Now I go to remove the head and it will not budge.I even flipped engine upside with the corner nuts on and a few threads up and proceeded to beat on it till my mallet...