Right, I knew which sensors you were talking about, was just unsure about the condition of yours. So no connectors at all? That sucks...you might be able to get those from Toyota (I know they sold CPS and KS pigtails, not sure about others), otherwise I'm sure someone with a part-out going on...
A disconnected coolant temp sensor won't keep your thermostat open...the thermostat is not electrically operated, it is a mechanical valve that opens at higher coolant temps as the wax within it is heated. Besides, a stuck-open thermostat doesn't make you lose coolant...it's a closed system...
His input was plenty useful...it is true that a faulty knock sensor will not cause your problem. I think "messing with it" in this context means "attempting to diagnose it and looking to it as a possible cause of the problem"...
The knock sensor contains a piezoelectric element that produces a...
Code 41 is caused by an open or short in the VTA signal...it can also be caused by VTA exceeding 1.5V while IDL remains closed, but the first case sounds most likely to me (the car bogs but it still revs to any RPM, right?)
You need to determine if it is the wiring or the TPS that is at...
Not that I've ever heard of, out of curiosity why do you think there would need to be a gap? There are several systems on the car which allow air to bypass the closed throttle plate and enter the engine...
OK, well since that is the only one out of spec (from looking at your other results posted in Scotty's thread), there must be an open between VC and the potentiometer. I couldn't copy the diagram but take a look at the 3rd page of this: http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h33.pdf...makes more...
It means throttle position doesn't matter - VC and E2 are at either end of the potentiometer (variable resistor) inside the TPS...so the resistance between them will be the same at any throttle position.
No, deflection is when the meter goes from a reading of resistance (continuity) to infinite resistance (open). On an analog meter, you would see the needle suddenly jump to the end of its range or "deflect" - that's where the term comes from.
So, your TPS is behaving just how it should.
Code 31 also points to the entire AFM circuit, not just the AFM itself, so check into that. Seems likely to be a wiring problem if it continued after swapping the AFM, although it's possible both of them were bad (the TSRM tells you a way to test them)...
I doubt running without the honeycomb...
If I remember right...there are two bolts holding it onto the block, then two nuts where it mates to the housing behind the water pump. Then on the intake side it just has a heater hose clamped onto it.
I had to take mine out (or just move it around some) to replace that gasket at the end of...
Ah yeah you're right, I didn't think about it that way. Of course engine speed has nothing to do with it. So if you revved up to 4k and then completely let off the gas, there should be an IDL signal at that time? Of course, like you said, that doesn't apply to his situation since he was...
Yeah, your boost gauge must be missing a wire, you have to have both power and ground...
And you want to wire them into the gauge cluster lighting circuit.
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