What are the options to get rid of the power steering reseviour/pump and make it manual steering?? What different racks are avaliable? Any write ups of rack swaps around?
Manual Steering.
- Thread starter Justin
- Start date
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bbaacchhyy
Guest
Justin said:
I have done it (as have others), and all you need to do is loop the lines around.
Cleans up the front of the engine as well !!!!!!
"I enjoy all of the room in my car now that the PS is removed. Ive received a few questions in regards of how to make a custom manual steering rack - here is my experience:
Step 1: Procure a manual steering rack from a late-80's RX7 (FC3, FS3 ) Im not sure on the nomenclature exactly.... I purchased mine for ~$20 at a u-pull-it. No, the supra tie rod ends wont fit on the rack.... the threads are one size too big. And no, the steering wheel input wont fit either, its too big. And no, no, no, the rx rack itself is too short end to end to bolt into the supra. Be sure to remove as much of the steering input shaft as possible from the donor RX - all the way up to the firewall. (Dont cut it, the farthest bolt linkage inside the engine bay will give you enough.) DONT FORGET THE BRACKETS FROM THE RX.
Step 2: Center your removed PS racks from the supra and the RX and place them parallel with each other. Measure the length of the SUPRA rack, and figure out at what point you will have to cut the ends off. Just so you understand what is going on, once you put the SUPRA tierod ends on the appropriately trimmed end of the RX rack, the RX rack should equal the length of the stock SUPRA rack, from end to end. (Use the bolts as a measurement point.) Once you have calculated the appropriate cutting point on the supra and RX racks, re check it, and then check it again once you sober up. Dont mess this up. The amount of material removed should be the same for both sides of the rack.
Step 3: You will have to cut the tierod ends off of the supra rack INSIDE of the adjustable, threaded portion of the rack. These ends will be welded onto the RX rack. This enables your car to be aligned (DUH) after you install.
Step 4: Acquire either a dowel nut (9/16"?????? I think this is what it was.) or a mild steel tube with an ID similar to the tie rod ends and the rack end. The dowel nut is a nut meant to hold threaded metal dowels together - its about 2-3 inches long. The idea here is to create a brace for the two ends that are about to connect together. With the dowel nut or similar tube, cut a channel down the middle with a bench grinder, and crimp it together. This will create a spring action that will hold the ends quite firmly while you weld them together. Be sure to measure the ends of the rack for the appropriate distance before you weld.
Ill finish this later, I have to go to work....
Step 5: Wrap a cold, wet cloth around the rack next to the protective boot so that you dont cook the rubber with the weld. Weld a bead up the center of the channel you ground out of the nut/tube and finish the weld around the ends. Take breaks after short welds to preserve the rubber by keeping it cool. This should leave you with a set of supra tierod ends that will properly adjust and align.
Step 6: You need to look at the brackets and see how they will fit together in order to properly hold the steering rack in place. I cut the RX rack brackets in half and welded them to the supra brackets. After some grinding and proper placement of the rubber in the bracket, it was securely held. A bench grinder is handy.
Step 7: Install your manual rack in the position of the old one. Before connecting the steering wheel, be sure to get it straight with the wheels. You will need to weld the shaft of the supra steering input to the rack itself due to the difference in size. Dont worry, its not permanent. You can still unbolt it near the firewall if necessary. With the car on jacks, give the input shaft a quick spot weld and check the play/turning to ensure it is satisfactory before you weld it up. While applying the final bead to the input shaft, have an assistant slowly turn the wheel so you dont have to stop the weld.
Step 8: After all assembly looks good, take your car out, park your wheel against a curb, and pull the dogshit out of the steering wheel in both directions. Make SURE that your rack is secure and that the welds arent going to break. Unless you hit something sideways, this is most likely the time that it will see the most stress. If it breaks, you are a sucky welder.
This project relies on your technical expertise and common sense. If you dont feel confident about altering your steering, dont do it. Other than that, good luck.
Not to forget - thank you PROJECTSUPRA for your insight and answers to my questions. He is the originator of this idea - as far as I know. Give him some credit."
ATTNETION!!!!!
I think I pulled this from a post by Figgie *apparently cred goes to p5150*
I personally run without p/s. I just disconnected all the lines and removed everything. I reinstalled the banjo bolts to help keep dirt out. I was originally going to plug them entirely but was told that it would make steering extremely tough. No p/s is a pain parking and I'm sure if I'm ever in need of an emergency manouver it will hinder me greatly, but I did it anyways. It also made more room for my i/c.
Step 1: Procure a manual steering rack from a late-80's RX7 (FC3, FS3 ) Im not sure on the nomenclature exactly.... I purchased mine for ~$20 at a u-pull-it. No, the supra tie rod ends wont fit on the rack.... the threads are one size too big. And no, the steering wheel input wont fit either, its too big. And no, no, no, the rx rack itself is too short end to end to bolt into the supra. Be sure to remove as much of the steering input shaft as possible from the donor RX - all the way up to the firewall. (Dont cut it, the farthest bolt linkage inside the engine bay will give you enough.) DONT FORGET THE BRACKETS FROM THE RX.
Step 2: Center your removed PS racks from the supra and the RX and place them parallel with each other. Measure the length of the SUPRA rack, and figure out at what point you will have to cut the ends off. Just so you understand what is going on, once you put the SUPRA tierod ends on the appropriately trimmed end of the RX rack, the RX rack should equal the length of the stock SUPRA rack, from end to end. (Use the bolts as a measurement point.) Once you have calculated the appropriate cutting point on the supra and RX racks, re check it, and then check it again once you sober up. Dont mess this up. The amount of material removed should be the same for both sides of the rack.
Step 3: You will have to cut the tierod ends off of the supra rack INSIDE of the adjustable, threaded portion of the rack. These ends will be welded onto the RX rack. This enables your car to be aligned (DUH) after you install.
Step 4: Acquire either a dowel nut (9/16"?????? I think this is what it was.) or a mild steel tube with an ID similar to the tie rod ends and the rack end. The dowel nut is a nut meant to hold threaded metal dowels together - its about 2-3 inches long. The idea here is to create a brace for the two ends that are about to connect together. With the dowel nut or similar tube, cut a channel down the middle with a bench grinder, and crimp it together. This will create a spring action that will hold the ends quite firmly while you weld them together. Be sure to measure the ends of the rack for the appropriate distance before you weld.
Ill finish this later, I have to go to work....
Step 5: Wrap a cold, wet cloth around the rack next to the protective boot so that you dont cook the rubber with the weld. Weld a bead up the center of the channel you ground out of the nut/tube and finish the weld around the ends. Take breaks after short welds to preserve the rubber by keeping it cool. This should leave you with a set of supra tierod ends that will properly adjust and align.
Step 6: You need to look at the brackets and see how they will fit together in order to properly hold the steering rack in place. I cut the RX rack brackets in half and welded them to the supra brackets. After some grinding and proper placement of the rubber in the bracket, it was securely held. A bench grinder is handy.
Step 7: Install your manual rack in the position of the old one. Before connecting the steering wheel, be sure to get it straight with the wheels. You will need to weld the shaft of the supra steering input to the rack itself due to the difference in size. Dont worry, its not permanent. You can still unbolt it near the firewall if necessary. With the car on jacks, give the input shaft a quick spot weld and check the play/turning to ensure it is satisfactory before you weld it up. While applying the final bead to the input shaft, have an assistant slowly turn the wheel so you dont have to stop the weld.
Step 8: After all assembly looks good, take your car out, park your wheel against a curb, and pull the dogshit out of the steering wheel in both directions. Make SURE that your rack is secure and that the welds arent going to break. Unless you hit something sideways, this is most likely the time that it will see the most stress. If it breaks, you are a sucky welder.
This project relies on your technical expertise and common sense. If you dont feel confident about altering your steering, dont do it. Other than that, good luck.
Not to forget - thank you PROJECTSUPRA for your insight and answers to my questions. He is the originator of this idea - as far as I know. Give him some credit."
ATTNETION!!!!!
I think I pulled this from a post by Figgie *apparently cred goes to p5150*
I personally run without p/s. I just disconnected all the lines and removed everything. I reinstalled the banjo bolts to help keep dirt out. I was originally going to plug them entirely but was told that it would make steering extremely tough. No p/s is a pain parking and I'm sure if I'm ever in need of an emergency manouver it will hinder me greatly, but I did it anyways. It also made more room for my i/c.
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holy shit, this looks like what I was wanting! Give me a year to read it and i'll post my thoughts. Thanks man! 
okay it only took me a minute:
excellent write up, but far more than I was looking to do. I thought i'd read about a straight swap with somthing else. Also, can someone elaborate more upon simply looping lines? (I don't know too much 'bout power steering)
okay it only took me a minute:
excellent write up, but far more than I was looking to do. I thought i'd read about a straight swap with somthing else. Also, can someone elaborate more upon simply looping lines? (I don't know too much 'bout power steering)
B
bbaacchhyy
Guest
Justin said:holy shit, this looks like what I was wanting! Give me a year to read it and i'll post my thoughts. Thanks man!
okay it only took me a minute:
excellent write up, but far more than I was looking to do. I thought i'd read about a straight swap with somthing else. Also, can someone elaborate more upon simply looping lines? (I don't know too much 'bout power steering)
I would be trusting welding a steering shaft in my car. Up to you though. Maybe it is a good solution, but a LOT of work.
To loop the lines, simply either do it with some rubber hose on the end of the sigots as they come out of the rack, or get a small custom line made up. There is no pressure in the sytem, and it does not affect the steering ability.
Much simpler.
1700kg car
150+ mph
welded rack
pass
Ask Ayrton Senna what he thinks of welded steering components......
150+ mph
welded rack
pass
Ask Ayrton Senna what he thinks of welded steering components......
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I think I read somewhere about a mustang (or mustang 2?) rack swapping in. I'm sure its not a direct swap, but may be easier than the RX. Also something to keep in mind when messing with the front suspension is "bump steer". The lower A arms and the steering arms(tie rods) must pivot on the same vertical plane. If the tie rod pivot point is different than the A arm, the wheel will steer in or out during suspension travel. I don't know the exact science of it so I would suggest doing some research before tackling it. If anyone knows about the mustang rack please chime in. I would like to go with manual steering also.
Justin said:
Seconding this, I am running into some clearance issues with my 3" piping due to the ridiculous design of the stock power steering lines and temporarily need to run without it while I gather the components needed to replumb the power steering. Thanks!
If you loop the lines how hard does it make it to steer the car? I drive with 1 hand all the time and don't like taking a hand off the shifter to turn.
B
bbaacchhyy
Guest
malloynx said:
No. By looping the lines, andy of the remaining oil is there for lubrication. The looping of the lines is merely taking away the hydraulic pressure to reduce the steering effort.
Pretty simple really.
I dont see why people are removing the powersteering??
if you are doing nothing other than drag, i can understand but if you are going to keep it a road car, wtf rally cars have a prog. sterring. dont see any point of removing it.
if you are doing nothing other than drag, i can understand but if you are going to keep it a road car, wtf rally cars have a prog. sterring. dont see any point of removing it.
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p5150 said:
I was going to ask you what setup you had but I've been too busy waiting for my damn rod bolts you convinced me to buy
so does anyone on SM have the looped hose setup? What about the fabled 5.0 rack? is it a litlte easier than the rx7 method?
northsupra said:
Weight reduction and better road feel at speed. Those are my goals. Have you seen how rally drivers drive? --the steering wheel is never straight. You would have to be the hulk to muscle the car around without it. This is my weekend warrior so I can put up with a little stiffer steering when parking it.
YoNkErS87t said:
TO All those who have commented on loving lack of P/S tell me how you did yours? Loop lines, RX7 or 5.0?
Regarding looping the lines...Does it really add alot of feel to the steering? Is it a nightmare as far as around town driving? Ive got 245's all around...do I need arms like Hulk Hoagan to park? Is it possible to loop the lines without removing everything first to see if it's gonna work for me? Didn't mean to hijack the thread...just caught my interest. Thanks!