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No need for a full kit, all the metal parts are perfect, just needs seals, frictions and a good clean. I'd recommend anyone doing a reco to pull the trans down first, could save some money buying a more basic kit rather than all the bells & whistles,

The A340 in my car died a couple of weeks ago, it started slipping under normal road load and had a noisy pump for several weeks beforehand. Faced with quotes for a rebuild that clearly indicated to me that all the local transmission rebuilders were engaged in price fixing ($2500 to rebuild an...

I didn't think GE's got engine oil coolers? I have an external cooler on my factory delivered GE car. All the pipes, brackets are factory and their age and the fact they've never been tampered with indicate the car came with it. I always thought the cooler was an external trans cooler, but...

Look, I've measured the temp of the cast aluminium intake and the intake ducting. Unless you can somehow reduce the heat in the cast parts, you are wasting your time trying to reduce heat. The cast parts run significantly hotter than the ducting. And to be honest, we are talking about a 1%...

Exactly. Again, you are wasting your money on pod filters etc. The exhaust manifold is nowhere near the AFM and the hot air is blown back away from it and the intake when the car is moving.

How about all the blowhards who have no idea about E85 stop commenting and let those of us who have actually used the fuel for a considerable time make, proper, unbiased comments? How about you stop regurgitating myths and try running the fuel for a while. You know, actually learn something...

No point shielding the intake ducting from heat, they remain cooler than the cast aluminium Y pipe and upper intake. If you want to cool intake charge, fabricate a phenolic spacer for lower intake and put a heat shield between Y pipe and rockers.

You DO NOT NEED any special lines to run E85. Have you read anything about it? Have you read this thread? It is NOT corrosive and DOES NOT damage stock fuel systems on anything made after about 1980.

No need for a water separator. I let my Volvo sit for a month or more over summer (when riding the bike to work) and had no issues. I don't think a water separator would work with E85, the ethanol will just absorb the water and pass it through the engine. Any properly functioning fuel system...

Actually, you should compare E85 to premium fuel at the pump. I am saving a lot of money running E85, it's about 30c/litre cheaper at my location. Ran the 7MGE Supra again today on E85, running faultlessly, but still really need to increase fuel pressure. I'm just staying below full throttle...

Oh no. I ran E85 in a 1990 Volvo 740 Turbo for over two years as a daily driver and all I did was put in larger injectors and use the performance ECU chips the car already had. It sure sucked that I could run 16psi on the stock turbo all day (for around 200-220hp out of a 2.3 litre four cyl)...

Full, conventional clutch plate with a slightly heavier pressure plate. Friction materials have made huge leaps in the past 10-20 years, ceramic/puck clutches are for bench wanking on a street car.

Do you US guys have the same plant number on your cars as ours (A53)? Wondering if they were all built in the same plant for the whole world.

I note it hasn't actually been done. And if you are using the stock air flow sensor, there is absolutely no point.

What do we win? Check out the compliance date on the right hand plate, 4/86. Which means it was complianced on that date, but built before, so maybe 2/86.

The stock filter outflows the stock AFM and already is cold air induction. Leave it alone and waste money on other bling.

As a noob, all you should do is wind up the boost to the max, don't check the rest of the engine and fuel system is OK, then beat the hell out of it. Then we can have another noob "It's not a BHG, but...." thread!

Stab him in the eye with a fountain pen.

I wouldn't do it unless the car was mechanically stripped. Way too heavy and you will crush body panels. What I've done with my Jaguar project is make a dolly that sits under the car. The two rear uprights lock into the rear jack points and the front two uprights are notched and capture the...

Aftermarket balljoints are always too long. It's not the split pin's job to stop the nut losing torque, that is the job of fastener stretch and thread friction. The split pin is merely there as a backup, it stops the fastener completely falling apart.