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For your GE, ARP bolts will do just fine, torqued to 75ft-lb. In fact, the stock head bolts will also be fine at 70ft-lb (IIRC). Studs are better than bolts, in general, giving a more predictable preload than bolts.

It's easy, so checking for codes is a good first step. How old is your gasoline? How old are the spark plugs? Checking for intake leaks between the turbo and throttle body is in order. That's most likely to leak under maximum boost. The TSRM troubleshooting chart can help with ideas of what to...

More information please. Is everything stock or are there any modifications? Has this been a problem since you got the car or did it suddenly appear? Did you check for codes?

They also used a hammer on it - you can see the dents in the first picture. That said, this driveshaft is tricky to get apart with a press and pullers because of the yoke shapes. I swapped u-joints on a Jeep driveshaft once and it was cake because the yokes had large flat areas for the press...

Wow. Just wow. Sorry you get to deal with the mess.

The easiest thing to check first is the alignment of the u-joints. If they're not pointing in the right direction, it will vibrate. Just changing u joints should not affect the balance. Next, check the runout at the joints. It should be 0.002" (0.05mm) or less. Weber State University has an...

Gee, the Mishimoto aluminum radiator I have in my GE works just fine. It does not overcool because my thermostat does its job properly. The best coolant for our Supras is Toyota Red. Read the label for mixing ratios, but for most people use 50/50 with distilled water.

Yea, it looks like it goes to the power steering pump idle-up valve. It needs to be hooked up or you get a large vacuum leak. Your pump leaking is a different problem.

You're in luck! These peeps make one.

That's all great stuff, @Bru , but I don't think there's Harbor Freight in Malaysia where the OP lives. Getting the inner race off the pinion 30 years after it was put on took all the 20 tons my press had to offer. It made quite a bang.

That press probably will do the side bearings and pinion bearing races. But, getting the rear pinion bearing off the pinion takes lots of force. I doubt that press will work.

I don't know what noise occurs when the spacer is too small. I will guess that if there's too much preload, the pinion bearing will wear out faster, and the pinion will be too far forward (away from the ring gear). There will then be too much backlash and the mesh pattern will be biased to the...

This one is for a 1967-1969 Camaro, but it's the same mechanically. There's a shim (item 23) between the bearing and pinion gear to set location. The crush sleeve or spacer (item 5) sets preload.

Weir Performance sells a solid pinion spacer kit for our differential. No need to make your own. It includes shims so you can get both bearing preload and position correct. McMaster is a good source for shim sets. The big side spacers are Toyota only. Time to find another rebuilder. Crush...

And be sure to upgrade to a solid pinion spacer. Don't waste your time with another crush sleeve.

My axles have always come out easily, but that doesn't mean yours will. Just don't beat on it so hard that you mess up the threads on the end. Splines can stick. I also suggest using a better penetrating oil, such as PB Blaster. If you have an air compressor, get an air hammer and a blunt-nosed...

I forget the size of the axle nut, but it could be 32mm. It's the highest torque of any fastener on this car, and I've never thought the handbrake sufficient to hold that large torque. It'd be best if you had a friend push the brake pedal hard while you torqued the nut if you want to do it while...

It's easier to remove the axle when it's straight, because the boots won't be pulling unevenly on the joints. It's still possible to get the axles out with the suspension drooped all the way, so it's not super-important. Don't worry about not making the match marks on the differential side...

In a rear-drive car, the rear suspension should be aligned to the centerline of the car so the net thrust from both tires pushing the car forward is aligned with the axis. If it's not aligned, the car will tend to steer to one side. It's most obvious when accelerating, but will show itself while...

Yea, centering the steering wheel should have been part of the alignment. If it pulls to one side under power, maybe they didn't get the thrust angle set to 0 like it should be. It seems unlikely that things are out of whack enough that the power steering is trying to pull the steering off...