The ecu is repeatably losing it's main power supply enough to complain and you don't think it's affecting your car? Yet you believe oil in plug wells affects idle? And you're jury rigging GM connectors to what could be critical sensors and not sure they're making contact?
That it needs to be explained at all is what's amazing.
Good posts btw. Shows a solid grasp of the issues associated with 51. The key is just what the book says: No IDL signal, NSW signal or A/C signal to ECU, during *diagnosis check*.
Check for injection. Use noid lights, meter, stethoscope, whatever you have. Does the engine fire when given a shot of ether? Check the + side of the injector circuit. This area is one of the few that'll stop fuel and yet not give codes.
The firing line should be 6-8kv for a .035 gap and a normal mixture. Plug gap effects the firing line, not the spark line. I find 1.5 kv hard to believe. If that's an average of firing line kv what is the average of the spark lines? What is the max firing line kv obtained during a snap throttle...
Um, since when is oil conductive? Especially at the lower voltage a properly gapped plug fires at? And since it's also used as a dielectric in high voltage transformers?
Oil in the wells won't cause misfiring, put an ignition scope on there and you'll see. Best way to get it out? Mop up what...
You gotta be kidding. There are many causes of detonation and in fact the vast majority of det events occur at other then WOT. You think your engine has knock sensors just for WOT use? How do you think the 7M makes the power it does on 188 cubic inches? Why does the owner's manual state 87...
Must be why they've been successfully used since the dawn of automobiles huh?
I've never had one leak and that includes the three I've put on 7Ms. It's a simple gasket, one that doesn't have to work very hard at being one. If it leaks it was put on wrong, over torqued, or the pan/block wasn't...
I don't know for sure but I assume so. Everything I've learned shows TCCS coding varies depending on where the car was intended to be sold. emissions, etc, and if the car didn't have EGR it seems logical the correction routines wouldn't be there.
The point is under load the ECU advances spark...
Hmmm....ECU programing in non-EGR cars is different. Those of you who pull the EGR off seem to forget the ECU was programmed for it. It still does things thinking EGR is there. These actions can easily be observed using a labscope and a gas analyzer.
As I've pointed out before, the use of EGR...
Fix the sensor, it's important. Still, the car should start. Pumping the pedal accomplishes nothing. Shoot some starting ether in it or otherwise check to see if you have spark and go from there. Don't hesitate to clear codes every so often and start from scratch.
About our sensors:
The ecu...
If you're no longer getting AFM codes you have the 5 volts. The temp sensor in the AFM broke off? Or the CTS broke off? Yes, the car will start with a shorted or open (or unplugged) CTS but it'll run poorly until it warms up. It'll run poorly all the time if the sensor has shifted calibration.
Bishop is correct, the CTS is important. Unplug the coolant temp sensor and the ecu will use a default of 176 degrees. Leaving it plugged in *may* make the engine stupid if it's gone bad but it shouldn't give you a code and act stupid at the same time.
The reason for this is the ecu can only...
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