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Hey, the pointy end is the best seat in the house. The downside is you're the first to arrive at the scene of an accident. ;) Since the regulator is integral to the alternator replacing the alternator fixes it if the regulator is leaky. Anyway, nice to know I'm on the right track.

Sigh....

SupraDerk, I'm impressed. And not only with that post. There may yet be some hope for this country...

Thank God. There was enough hot air dumped to invalidate the thread's title. This is why I normally stay outta OT, it gives too much insight into the kinds of people I'm dealing with here. The regular forums are bad enough at times....

Sheesh..is it me or is forum getting dumber by the day? Why even respond to such questions when they're worded like that?

The "KS part of the afm?" What does that mean? And what connection does it have to the knock sensors? This is why AFMs and other parts shouldn't just be swapped out. They should be troubleshot the correct way. You need to take the car to someone who knows what they're doing.

He's 16...basically a giant hormone with feet. One with an apparent mushroom habit who's looking for a "bang buddy" no less. Lol...

Lol, you're what? 16? How can 16 year old angst generate 9 pages of posts?

Hey, I know the feeling except I have to do more legs a day than you. How come you aren't down at the bar playing with the locals? Yes, the regulator is internal but not too much so. You access it by removing the alternator's rear cover. It simply screws on. Might as well replace the brushes...

So you want 4 pulses per rev with a max of 5 volts? 4 PPR on the speedo drive? I don't understand why your stock sensor would be outputing different voltages. It's nothing more than a contact closure. Without the stock ECU how are you powering it now? All you'd need to do is pull it up to 5vdc...

Ian, exactly what do you mean by 4x? One for every 4 or 4 for every one? Godspeed: Yeah, you need to put the exhaust back on. Sorry, I only deal with unhacked cars. From what I see there aren't many of them left these days ;)

You're welcome SH. Let me know if I can be of further assistance. Without going into all the technical ooga-booga the 7.5 amp charge fuse supplies power to the combo meter and warning lights but *does not* provide power to the regulator. Contrary to popular belief the type M regulator in the...

Well sure, you can check it power on too. The odd readings are because of the pull up resistors in the ECU. It's how the box monitors it, how it knows to set a code. Either that or the meter can't follow the frequency when the car is moving too fast. I just figured continutity would be easier...

How is it not the way it was? Is it all stuffed into #6? ;)

Eck, I keep forgetting you don't have a 7M. Shouldn't matter though, the codes mean the same. Test the speed sensor and if it's bad replace it. It's just a reed switch and a magnet unless you have a digital dash, then it's optical. How close is the O2 sensor to the exhaust outlet? To the...

Yes to the first question and no to the second. Search and ye shall become edjumacated.

One of the nice things about a good circuit analysis is the ability to use the car itself as a troubleshooting tool so that's what we'll do. That your alternator works has no bearing on the indicator problem because the Type M regulator's regulation and warning lamp circuits are independent...

Entertaining thread ;)

Ok, standby. Unlike others I'm not leaning towards a grounding problem for several reasons. I'm assuming the lights work normally during the lamp test ie; key on, engine off. I need to look at the other circuits but everything implies a problem with the charging system. The only way the...

When you say tailight are you refering to the light failure indicator? Again, the battery light is telling but I need to know for sure about the tailight to do some circuit analysis.