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No, I've just to be in a country where the internet isn't a novelty. Being in a nuclear wasteland didn't help either ;)

Sorry you're bummed but frankly I'm not surprised. I was going to stop you from buying another AFM last week. In fact I was so sure the old one was good I was going to ask you send it to me instead of trashing it. Why didn't I? Because I'm tired of pointing out the same thing again and again...

Not my stuff, I'm just repeating what I read. I figure the SAE types know more than I do. Lol, and if you saw me hand fly a DME ARC you wouldn't think I'm smart. Be quiet now or I'll report your ass to ALPA....we can't have the public finding out most of us are dummies you know ;)

Beaten to death indeed...but here's something a few may find interesting. I'm a member of the SAE: http://tinyurl.com/2qt8b While I've never been an automotive engineer becoming a member of this organization permits access to a wealth of data by experts in the field. I though some might be...

Just a pup....not even broken in yet. HB!

"Speed of stupidity"...lol. Man, that's gotta be hauling for some folks. Jdub, I wouldn't have even replied to this thread if you hadn't shamed me into it by taking pity on the guy. You probably give money to street people too ;)

Then why did you need new calipers? ;) Yeah, bleed them. Speed bleeders are nice, as is pressure bleeding. If you really want a hard pedal use an old motorcycle trick after bleeding: Find a way to jam the pedal down hard and keep it there overnight. The brakes will be rock solid in the morning...

Wow. You really need to do some research. A good place to start would be with the Downing Street Memo. Follow up with Paul Wolfowitz's and other's history advising W *before* he was Prez...

It's the Cam Position Sensor. A fairly critical part ;). Your eyes are gonna water when paying for that at the stealership. Go used.

How much will it cost to throw parts at it and still fail? You want to fly blind? OK...change your plugs and wires, replace the cat and O2 sensor, check to make sure the EFI system is in closed loop (with a midpoint O2 sensor voltage of 450 millivolts), the EVAP and EGR systems are working...

Hippy stuff? Lol, his car is dumping out a large amount of a lethal colorless, oderless, tasteless gas into the air. Try running a hose from the exhaust pipe into your car while it's running and see how "hippy" it feels. Not to mention he's burning more of that $3+/gallon gas than he should be...

Your engine is running rich, that's why the NOx is low and the CO high. HC is another issue altogether and can be associated with other than a rich mixture. It would've been better had you posted CO2 and O2 results but it's pretty clear you have a rich mixture. Bottom line: The car is broken...

I agree 3p. I've suspected that since hearing he used LEDs. Opening the L line will prove that's the source of the ground leakage but if I were him I'd put the lamps back in. I've never had a failure of any of my dash lights. The bulbs are the ones that came with the car. Jdub: Ok, lemme look...

You need to get away from regular LEDs and use Luxeons. They work better than incandescents in applications requiring high brightness. My other car has Luxeon based lighting, everything from tails to brakes. You can buy Luxeons all the way up to 5 watts, which are capable of putting out 100...

The Y-G is the lamp line. My car has a fuse inline with it, yours doesn't. I also don't see where it's connected to the combo meter in the same way as mine so I don't see how it can influence the other lights. Shoot, this entire thing was reasoned out based on circuit analysis. The problem is...

Are you asking me Colin? If so not usually but I have done it. I have a switch in the glovebox that I use. Code 51 is never set in memory and will not light the MIL, as won't several other codes. It's why codes should be checked on occasion even if the car seems to be running fine. Oh and...

Huh. Toyo changed stuff I guess. My 87 has a charge fuse under the hood. It's inline with "L" (lamp) output on the alternator. Look in your TSRM and see how that line is wired. I mentioned it because the charge fuse is an easy way to open the L line but if you don't have it you'll have to find...

LEDs and a different alternator? "Minor" details you failed to mention ;). Without going into all the technical ogga-booga the LEDs could very well be the problem. I didn't mean the IGN fuse, I meant the 7.5 charge fuse in the fuse box. Unplug it with the engine runnning and see if the lights...

Yeah, my bad. It's just that I recognized his handle. He's been around when the most recent 51 threads were done but I guess he missed them. You're right though, explaining the same stuff gets old....especially when you're as detail oriented as I am.

OK, I'll take your word for it....until I check ;)