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Yeah...I'm thinking that too, but if it happens to be a leak, maybe Loki can dodge the BHG bullet...this time ;)

Ok...couple of more things just to be on the safe side ;) - Throttle body, ISC, and cold start all bolted down tight - Crack in the fender pipe (assuming stock) - Known good intercooler...no leaks - Known good ISC...it's not sticking open This sounds like a re-build. Is the CPS...

I agree...it is low...leads me to think leak as well. Check the intake manifold vac connections, ISC gasket, cold start gasket, and brake boost line. A glowing turbo after a mild run is bad...timing can cause that, but so can a excessive rich condition. In either case, his EGT is probably...

That's great...brother-in-law deal huh :naughty: The most critical tolerances are the crank bearings, the RA, and torque spec for the head. You should be good to go.

I'd like to see it :icon_bigg Looks like a damn fine upgrade list to me!

Boost leak in the piping from the compressor to the IC to the throttle body. The AFM senses the air volume drawn in, but some of it escapes prior to reaching the intake manifold...makes fuel cut happen at a lower percieved psi on the gauge. The AFM is sensing the same volume as usual.

I read an article on this subject by an engineer type...had to do with the differences in thermal expansion of an aluminum head and iron block. Basically the premise was the heat generated by the motor combined with the thermal expansion characteristics of the different metals caused the stock...

Fuel cut as we started discussing does come from the AFM and where you hit it depends on the turbo you are using and depends if it's a stock AFM or with the Lex mod. The AFM sensor (used on both) senses volume...where that volume goes after that is not sensed by the ECU...that's why a small...

WOW! That makes Ron's FFIM a very good deal :icon_bigg BTW...I read your signature link on "Rice Burner". That was good :rofl:

If you have a good cross hatch on your cylinders, you probably will be able to get by with a hone and re-use your piston w/ new rings. Since you're going that far...here's what else I would do: - Close inspection of the crank and rod bearing surfaces..good to go..use new toyota bearings...

This has to be total BS...no one can be that dense :3d_frown:

I have a modified screw...it does help with idle at first, but I'm a believer that it's really the ECU that learns the new set up and controls the motor parameters accordingly. IMO, the $$$ you pay for the modified screw is better spent on supporting mods. If you install a Lex AFM, you can...

That will do it too...bad timing will shoot up your EGT up causing the motor to run hot. In this case you should see your coolant gauge above normal. Like I said, get the coolant system pressure tested....that will tell you if there are any leaks. If there are, it's a real PITA to find it...

Have your cooling system pressure tested. Any leak that allows air into the system will cause what you are experiencing. Check your heater hoses, the coolant hose/plug at the rear of the head, the small hose at the back of the water pump housing. It could be the radiator itself as well.

The fuel injectors or the fuel pump or the fuel line volume ("J" tube) has nothing to do with fuel cut. It's the volume of intake air sensed by the AFM...period. Fuel cut is there as a protection against an over boost...the ECU cuts fuel to prevent it and causing damage to the motor due to...

Dude...that's about the psi (16-18) any car will hit FC with a Lex AFM.

The TPS is the same on the auto and manual...it transmits info to the Auto ECU through the Engine ECU...the TPS in combo with the speed sensor on the tranny itself determines shift timing. That's why his tranny is stuck in 1st...the speed sensor can't tell the ECU when to shift. The one in the...

I didn't have to remove my half shafts...was able to get some wire and hold them up out of the way. It is difficult to get them back down over the differential output shaft studs...kinda had to work it a bit. Since this is a Supra...your milage may vary :naughty:

The are two speed sensors...the one in the speedo like JJ mentioned and another on the tranny, drivers side forward of the mount. That's the one you want to check...I had mine fail and got the exact same thing you have.

Idle Speed Control...looks like this: It's on the forward part of the upper intake manifold next to the throttle body...it has a connector going to the wiring harness.