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Ohhh...I get it. I apologize...thought you were calling me a pimp. I do pretty good, but I sometimes miss the subtleties in the tranlation from the written word. Sorry man.

What's your problem boy?

That's how you set your timing...yes, it needs to be set per the TRSM. If it was removed, it must bee reinstalled correctly or the engine will run very crappy (if at all).

Not near crowded enough...needs a couple Multi-function Displays, a HUD, and a bunch of hands-on controls. :naughty: The Viper looks like this:

Is your O/D light blinking on your Tach? You can determine if it's an electrical problem or mechanical by doing a manual shift test. Here's how: - Disconnect the ECT ECU (under the pass side trim panel)...make sur the ing key is off. - Test drive...start L, shift to 2, shift to D...keep...

If the long cable is too close to the downpipe...the inner plastic sheath will melt. Works fine until you stop and the plastic solidifies freezing the cable in place. The next time you move the car, the cable twists up and snaps.

Idealsupra did the led & display change over for me...it is a new red display.

The info has been posted...several times. Folks will believe what they want to believe.

Heat gun and a little persuasion? :naughty:

Based on that "A" plug diagram...How does the wiring going to the injectors look?

Yeah...the only reason I said do it now is it is a weak area on the head. Really common for the expansion of the hot iron exhaust manifold to weaken the aluminum threads and then they strip. It's easy to helicoil when you can walk around the motor ;)

Nicely done man! Now do all your exhaust manifold studs while the motor is outside the car ;)

Yeah...I thought about that. The problem is what I would have to charge for them to make it worthwhile....powdercoat would be the best for nice color (the ceramic colors are kinda gay :gaybar: ) and I don't do powdercoat. That's why I went with the chrome. I ended up coating and polishing...

Yep...:icon_cool

I'm with ya man ;) The only difference between a replacement and a re-torque is you don't completely remove the pressure exerted by the bolts on a re-torque. You crack the bolt just enough to get an accurate reading on the torque down.

Thanks man :icon_bigg It was a lot of work to get it to look like that...the 1st one I did didn't come out so nice. That's when I figured out there was nylon washers...melted them when I baked the ceramic on :3d_frown:

He might be able to get away with it, but I do know it will unload the head in the area where you pull the bolt. Depending on the condition of the HG (especially a stock one), it could induce a failure. The only way to find out would be to do it :naughty: IJ has a lot of knowledge on...

I have an '89 Auto...it came with a 3.73 differential. I swapped it out for the 3.90 for a little more off-the-line pick-up. It kinda sounds like you have a 4.10 or 4.30 in your '91. If a swap was done on either car, it was the '91.

Just adjust the TPS sensor per the TRSM...if it still throws a code after being adjusted correctly, replace it. Check the HAC sensor under the glovebox...you might just have forgot to connect it when you connected up the ECU. If it's already hooked up, you will probably have to replace it...

This is good...a must for a sticky! :stickpoke Mods?