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The offset is what's really important...if the center bore on the new wheels is larger, a set of concentric rings will match the wheel right up with your hub. Depending on the wheel style, you might need to spring for a set of tuner lugs too. Concerning used tires...you're taking a chance...

Make sure you check the offset on the new rims...stock is 35mm. You can get away with some +/- But installing one on the front with the worn out tire on it will tell you if it's going to rub....just turn the steering through full travel. How wide are the 17" rims?

That's the problem, people over torque a cork gasket and it fails. The gasket is then blamed for the failure. As JJ said, cork gaskets have been used for years on various motors...they will work fine, if you install correctly ;) I used Right Stuff on my pan...didn't have a cork gasket in...

So you're basically getting $100 for a set of sawblades and 2 nearly new tires...I'd jump on it :naughty:

You throwing any codes? You want to fix the high idle...there's the trouble shooting flowchart in the TRSM here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_018.html As you can see, there's several potential problems that could cause a high idle...3 of them have to do with fuel that...

Nick's right...simple things 1st. Check the sequence on the coil packs: Pass side 1 & 6, center pack 3 & 4, Drv side 2 & 5. Swap the plugs out from a good cylinder. Test the spark plug wires & coil packs. Make sure the packs have a good ground. If you're using RC 550's, you had to splice...

The CEL is coming on because the ECU has detected a problem...the TRSM outlines the procedure for pulling the code. That will get you pointed in the right direction.

Heehee...the wives just don't understand. I created a "Supra Slush Fund" that the wife has no clue exists...it makes parts magically appear!

Feel your pain man! You have to just laugh and say to yourself "it's a frigging Supra"!

JJ - would use of a JDM ECU negate this if your EGR was removed?

That would be a question for ARP...give them a call. Based on the note at the bottom, it looks like they are very specific on the lube used...I doubt you can interpolate the torque values based on a different lube. The bolts come with moly lube, why not just use it?

Always wanted a golf ball shooter :naughty:

During the 1st two weeks after installing the new motor, I had a thermostat that was sticking closed that behaved a lot like what you described. The temp gauge would go hot very quickly...it would only happen starting with a dead cold engine, then the needle would drop like a rock when the...

I think it should be wired up to a couple electrodes in the seat along with a capacitor so that it will shock the crap out of ya if you let your oil pressure get low! LOL!

If you're going over 350 HP...you def need the auto tranny built. Got mine done at IPT...SP can build one for you as well. Stay away from Level 10...everyone I know has had nothing but problems with them. I have the TRD LSD in a 3.90 differential. It's a 2 way, so it stays engaged on...

I may have misunderstood. If you're talking about the heat shield that mounts to the body below the brake line shield...yes you need it.

Those are the Venoms...mixed results from what I've read here. Some guys have no problems...some do. Do a search and you'll see what I'm talking about. Got RC injectors myself...top-notch product.

If ya got the coin...upgrade to a CSF radiator. You won't be disappointed.

I've had mine blocked off using a SP61GT turbo for the last 5000 miles or so...city & highway driving. Done a few hard runs too...temp gauge never goes above the 4 O'clock position...the motor has never over heated, even with it over 100 deg outside. The turbo coolant lines is a simple...

Should be fine...aftermarket pipes don't have a heat shield. The only concern is the CAT on the stock downpipe...CAT's get very hot. Make sure your speedo cable is well clear of it or the plastic inside will melt and re-solidify freezing/snapping the cable. Your under hood temps will go up...