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Good call ;) Consider a Cometic MHG...been used with great success and is a little more forgiving concerning surface RA.

Well...think about it getting into a cylinder...DOH! or into your oil...DOH! or into your turbo water seals...DOH! or into your radiator...DOH! This is a forced induction engine...it's probably not going to work due to the pressure put on the HG. Plus that stuff can get forced into any of...

You mean like 29 in/lbs for the cam covers? LOL :runaway:

IHI-RHC7 answered him on the 1st post. After that.... Our young buck went off on a tangent and didn't like the answer. Hey...it's his car...everyone has the right to blow a HG on a MK III. Or even melt their pistons...heck, he can even strap a couple JATO bottles to the sides and go...

:withstupi Veeerrry bad idea....

You can get the Right Stuff at AutoZone

Ok...here's how I see it. Pressure is rate, diameter of the pipe (oil channel or bearing clearance) is volume. Since we can't change the volume, we have to change the rate. That will work only to a certain point...the cross section of the channel will only support so much flow; as the...

Good radiator and pretty...should be for $400. The CSF is a dual core radiator...measures 2" thick across the core (fins). For the $$$, a lot of bang for the buck. Course it's not as pretty as the Fluidyne....

Hey Mike - the CSF radiator I've got is really holding up to the heat. When it hit 105 a few days ago, it didn't even sweat it...coolant bottle went to about 3/4 full and that was it. I haven't had it overflow yet. I am thinking about draining the coolant out of the rad and filling w/ water...

Pulling the oil pan and checking the clearances with a flexi guage should be no problem...easy with the motor out of the car.

Well Nash...I think you're down for the count ;) Take a look at the link Shaeff provided...it comes from the Emissions Control Systems section of the TRSM. The note above the table says (and I quote): "To reduce HC and Co emissions, when decelerating the dash pot opens the throttle valve...

Unless you're in a place where daily 110 deg temps is the norm :naughty:

I've got mine shimmed...I used 2 washers and it gives me 10-15 psi at idle and 35-40 psi at 3000 rpm using 0-30W synthetic with the motor at ops temp. I was thinking the same thing as you Mark...seeing 5 psi at idle makes me nervous. But the most important thing for the rod bearings is...

But it will help keep your motor cool...better than the stock rad, no doubt. And heat is one thing that kills the 7M. Personally, I think the CSF radiator is a better buy...about $320.

Tough crowd...LOL :2ar15:

The Dash Pot is part of the emissions system...it does more than just "sit there". Read the link Shaeff provided. Edit: LOL...beat me to it shaeff ;) And you're welcome Syris :3d_frown:

Here you go: :icon_bigg

Hmmm...I'd bore it .020 over. That means new pistons...take a look at Wisco. I just had a set in my hand a couple days ago and they are nice...don't cost an arm & leg either. Make sure your rod bearing surfaces are not damaged and get dressed properly. Rod bearing clearances are critical and...

Take a look at this for my suggestions on a re-build: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?p=216122#post216122 And what figgie said is very valid!

Actually the stock wheels are a 37mm offset. I've seen wheels in the 30mm - 50mm range work just fine. (Mk IV wheels are 50mm...a lot of guys use them on a Mk III) Larger offset moves the edge of the rim in toward the car...smaller moves it out. Either can cause a problem...that's why I...