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I've got Ross pistons and they don't slap at all. The manufacturers have tightened up the spec on piston clearances...slap is not the issue it once was. The only way you will be able to use your current pistons is if the cylinders are still in spec...i.e. not out-of-round w/ min wear on the...

Dude - if you got rod knock, that needs to be fixed. You could throw a rod after spending the cash on the above and it trash the motor...I've seen a rod come out the side of the block. If that happens, you won't have a bottom end to re-build.

Yeah...gonna look good ;) Going with silver? Where did you get the lip?

Take it to the shop with it all on there...you're getting a valve job done, right? They need to replace the valve seals and clean up the seats with a 3 angle. The cams need to be on there to check shim clearances...go for the middle of TRSM spec. If you stripped the exhaust studs (very...

You can get a valve job done for $500-600 depending on where you live...the key is to get the decking done to RA spec for a MHG. Even if you go w/ a Toyota composite, I would still get the head done to MHG spec while it's at the shop. You won't have to do it again later so it minimizes the $$$...

18 x 8 w/ 235/40 tires front, 18 x 9 w/ 275/35 tires rear...all are 38mm offset. That's on Eibach springs w/ Koni shocks...no rubbing issues at all.

Wow! That's a really good price :icon_bigg

Yeah...I'd have to pull that block just to paint it! BTW...originally from B'ham...mom still lives there :naughty:

That is a touch low...can you tilt the bottom of the IC aft and get a little more clearance? I'm just thinking about scrapes going up an incline Your car has a manual tranny, right? You could mount the oil cooler under the driverside well behind the fog light hole. I did that for my tranny...

Take a look at this thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15786&highlight=hardness If your head is soft, it's moot to try and have it straightened. Did you have the block decked to the RA spec on the last MHG? If not, that is very likely why it failed...you can't...

Much better! Is the bottom of the IC higher than the cross member? Kinda hard to see in the pics. Where you going to mount the oil cooler?

Much better! Is the bottom of the IC higher than the cross member? Kinda hard to see in the pics.

Concerning re-building the bottom end, you need to set your goals on what you want to do...an upgrade to the mid to high HP (400-500) numbers or leaning more modest close to stock HP (300-350). The turbo you choose will determine how stout a bottom end you need. Questions to ask yourself: -...

That's funny...I've got Ross .020 over pistons; no piston slap at all. And I've seen the JE's piston slap during warm-up myself. I had a set of Wisco's in my hand a few days ago...really nice looking piston and a good price too. A friend of mine (Toyota/Lexus Cert mechanic) who has has an...

Yep...as the Chinese would say: Wan Hun Lo

The wiring harness changed on the '89+ cars...grey vs yellow ECU plugs, and yes they are different. If you swap a pre '89 into an '89+ car, you will need to swap the ECU and main harness.

The stock plug gap spec is .031 for a turbo motor and should be fine if you are running stock boost. If you run boost above stock, gapping the plugs down a bit like IJ suggested will usually stop the studder. New plug wires like you're planning to do is a good idea, especially if your stockers...

You can, but you will have to remove the crank pulley and lower timing cover to do so. I would replace the cam seals and timing belt while you're there. You might need to replace the timing belt tensioning pulley as well. I'd use Toyota OEM parts here...Jeff Watson at Champion Toyota can help...

Got mine here: http://www.coolradiator.com/HPAToyotaSupraTurbo3.htm Might be cheaper somewhere else though. It does not have a built-in tranny cooler...you'll have to get one.

The surface RA on a Cometic is 50 or less...both the block & head will have to be decked to that spec for it. Get ARP head bolts or studs (studs are better). There's been a few re-build threads recently and there's more info in the reference section you probably want to read before you attack...