If you are going the MHG route, decking the head and block to the RA spec for the MHG used is required...otherwise the MHG will not seal properly. What MHG are you using?
Replacing the valve seals on the head is a good thing...consider having a 3 angle job done while it is off. Make sure...
Here you go: These are 275/35 Falkens on an 18 x 9 rim....the tire width is 11.5". There are no rubbing issues with Ebaich springs and Koni shocks. My rims are a 38mm offset...you can see in the 2nd pic that the rims take the tire right to the edge of the fender well...perfect :icon_bigg...
That is correct...been doing it for 4-5 tanks so far using Xylene, works good. BTW, Xylene is easier to get in the US than Toulene...the Meth heads use Toulene in their labs. That's why you read about them blowing up from time to time :nuts:
Take a look at this thread...
Yep...use a gal of Toulene or Xylene. It will raise 91 octane to about 94. This will correct a knock problem if your knock sensors is detecting knock and retarding timing on you.
Plug gap usually causes this problem...what psi boost you running?
MCD - Take a look at Bama's previous thread:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19533
The pics show the condition of the car when he got it.
Bama - If you asking should you pull the block or not...I'd pull the block out of the car just to paint over that god awful color...
I've noticed what you saying too IJ...I kinda slammed a guy for not saying "thanks" and it didn't even have an effect. Makes me wonder sometimes if the expectation is an "on-line Mk III tech hotline"
As far as rep goes...really doesn't matter here, just like to help and return all the...
Yeah...I thought I was going to put mine there too....that's an RX-7 oil cooler. I put my powersteering cooler there instead. The RX-7 cooler has an internal thermostat to regulate to boot. Ended up going with the one I showed you earlier though.
It's a pretty simple set-up Mark...stock...
Hmmm...check the torque and go from there. It could be a failure of the gasket itself...the new exhaust manifold gaskets Toyota sells (at least in the US) look a lot like a multi-layer steel MHG. Very stout...I used ARP stainless 12 point nuts/washers with new stock studs when I did my head...
Smart move on the helicoil ;) They still may have loosened up on ya and you may not be able to see it, especially on the bottom or rear end of the manifold. If you have an EGR cooler...that is another source.
Exhaust leak at the exhaust manifold...you may or may not get the visual indications depending on the severity. Check your torque on the manifold studs...say a quick prayer to the 7M gods that one or two are not stripped.
Ahhh...I so miss the days of being bullet proof :naughty:
And when I consumed enough alcohol, the gods bestowed the power of invisibility so no one could see how stupid I had become :eek3dance
The linkage is different...right hand drive on the Jspec :naughty:
Jspec ECU will work fine...it doesn't have the EGR programmed in either. If you have the EGR removed...I'm thinking that is a good thing. You do have to have the correct harness for your year group...pre-'89 or '89+
You might want to buy a JDM motor and swap the motors out using the USDM parts that are different from your car. That will keep it running. Do a search here on that, you will probably spend in the $1000 range...go for one that's been checked out from a vendor with a good rep & warranty...
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