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Bishop's post with the link is the only correct answer here ;) Nick - Right on man! FYI...the cable does have a huge impact on how firm the shift is, espeially on an auto with a mod'ed valve body. Having it mis-adjusted can really cause a pretty harsh shift :naughty:

If you do...use an electronics/contact cleaner...do not touch the inside with anything! I've seen several of these sensors after they were cleaned with carb or brake cleaner...they all failed.

A couple of things: - Did you get the front plate machined when you had the block decked? Did you use the silicon or RTV on the front, top corners of the front plate where it meets the head? - The rivet tha normally causes the seal issue is the forward one under the CPS. I'll have to...

:withstupi You can do far more damage than you think...and on an EFI car, that is a very bad thing. There was a thread by a guy that got an electrical fire under the hood doing re-wires :3d_frown:

Trust me...the ECU rarely fails (unless you hook up the battery backwards that is). Plus it's obscene expensive...you want to eliminate any other thing it could be. Now we know: - Your TPS is good - It's adjusted correctly - Your idle rpm is right on (650 is spec...but close enough)...

Come on man...did you do this exactly like I said? 700 rpm is normal...that is good. What code do you get when you do the above? Ignore code 51...it will appear every time if you touch the gas. The key is to let it idle on it's own. I need to know if it is throwing any other codes.

To quote Austin Powers...YEAH BABY! :runaway: Your code 51 problem looks like it's fixed to me...now do this: - Pull the EFI fuse again and reset the codes. - Start the car, let it idle, keep your foot off the gas. - What is the rpm - Do you get any other codes? <and you're welcome :) >

:withstupi Maybe it will help to for you to see what we know after a rather painful process...not a slam, but understand what all this has been about so far: - We know you have a good TPS...your numbers (Kilo Ohms) was in spec - We know you can clear the codes by pulling the EFI fuse -...

Congrats Jeff! Makes me feel good I was able to help with making that motor so nice lookin...you did a great job!

Ok...had to fix myself a margarita :naughty: Afterall, it is my birthday...heehee. Ok man...did you do this? It's important...it's the only way for me to know if you adjusted the TPS correctly.

On the CPS :rofl:

I'm just used to how my daughter talks....one loooong sentence. :aigo: Just selecting burner and unloading for airspeed between posts...I think he's getting close :x:

Ok...I think I follow that. Remember, anytime your foot is on the gas, you will get code 51. You did tighten the TPS good after adjustment, right? Clear your codes, plug in the TPS, turn on the ignition (don't start) and check for code 51....yes or no. Step on the gas, check for code...

Go Mike :bigthumb:

Yep...we know your TPS is good ;) You have to make sure on this stuff...it's a process of elimination. If you follow a logical order, which is what we're trying to get ya to do, it will be solved. Got it?

Ok...when you did this: You were actually checking the TPS, not adjusting it. BTW...JJ is correct...there is no way you can be reading ohms...based on the numbers, I'm betting you were reading Kilo Ohms. When I put the "Kilo" in front, your numbers make sense. When dealing with this stuff...

You mean "goddess"...wanna see my big boy BOV honey? :boink:

If this works out...this thread needs to be sticky'ed :wave: Mod's?

Who sells the Bosch? Is the theard size the same as the Delco?

I remember reading a month or so ago that someone on SM is using an ATI crank dampner vs the stock 7M. Any idea who that is?