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The Mk IV TT wheels are 17x8 front, 17x9.5 rear, both with a 50mm offset...they are used all the time on the Mk III. I still think he should try them (especially the rear)...a slightly wider tire (235) will help to cover the offset too. It's closer to 3/8" further inboard (25.4mm to the...

I bet you'll have no problem ;)

If I'm not mistaken, Mk IV rims are 50mm offset and fit fine...try them on the car (no tires) and see where the rim is relative to the shock and outside edge of the fender. What are the rest of the rim specs?

Damn! Don't see many of those...

Try the rad cap 1st...could be the hoses, radiator itself or thermostat as well. If any air gets into the system, it will displace coolant. Do the simple things first...get the coolant system pressure tested to determine if you have a leak some where. Edit: Beat me to it MDC!

Welcome Chet...the Mk III is both a headache and a passion. The one thing we all (at least most of us) have in common is a love for this car. Before you begin on the forum, you may want to read this thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19859

Got mine at IPT in New Jersey...they're about $500: http://www.importperformancetrans.com/ It's a 3000 rpm stall...wanted to keep a little better drivability for the street. That rpm is where the SP-61GT turbo spools...worked out great. And dbsupra90's comment on the line pressure cable...

What about it? In performance mode, you're going past 4000 rpm at the top of your boost curve...accelerating like a banshee. Of course, that on a built auto with a valve body mod. Kinda reminds me of that little machine in my Avatar :evil5:

You "messed" with the TPS???? There's a pretty specific procedure in the TRSM for adjusting the TPS...you might want to search this site for "high idle" and/or "TPS" and do a little light reading. After that, if you have more specific questions you might get some help. Here's the link...

Yep...a built auto keeps you in the power band through all the gears...I can keep the boost at a constant 18 psi through the shifts. The manual guys will not out-shift it. You do need a 3000-3400 stall though...that allows you to spool the turbo holding the brake. Makes for a great launch...

If you're using a MHG, also make sure they get the block deck surface to the correct RA spec ;)

It's not a sensor...the wheel is a check valve under the ISC valve; inserted the "spokes" show. Can't remember if the rubber seal goes on the top or bottom of the check valve.

What you did is fine...it's the electronics you don't want to use carb cleaner on.

Actually, it's really easy...especially when you got a 2 post 9000# capacity lift in your garage :naughty:

:withstupi Ditto RTFI

Be careful with the razor blade on the rear glass...remember you have the defog heating element on there ;) You don't want to accidently sever a line.

At idle, 15.5-16.0 is normal. Cruise should be 14.7. Boost should be 11.0-11.5. Try this...pull your EFI fuse and let the ECU "re-learn" your set-up.

That's correct...you don't have to have the front cover machined perfectly. Just enough to make it a tiny bit lower than the block deck. There is something that is holding the head off the block to have that many different oil leaks...I guess you will have to pull the head to find out. Let...

That's ok man...Shaeff said it all ;) No harm, no foul...in fact, I think you're showing a lot of character...you are welcome here in my book.

If you don't have the front plate machined when you deck the block, the top surface of the front plate will be higher than the top of the block. That will not allow the head to mate flat with the gasket/block surface...there is no way to get the HG to seal under these conditions. On a...