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Might have some oil leaking from the CPS O-ring (where it fits in the head) down to the manifold....those get dried out and crack. Where you described is about the right place.

The honeycomb is what sets up the vortex that our AFM sensor "sees"...if you want any kind of accuracy, you need the honeycomb.

Yeah...if the oil line is not tight on the bottom of the turbo, it will spray oil from the pressurized side.

I used an OEM pump and shimmed it with 2 washers (~3mm)...engine warm w/ 5W-30, that gives me 15 psi at idle and 40 psi at 3000+ rpm. My thought on a "hi-volume" pump is that there is two ways to get additional oil flow...volume or psi (or rate). With volume, you are still going to be...

Including the one above the CPS? I assume the Cometic is new...did you use a spray coating on it?

A little cheaper here: http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/toga_oilpumpstoyota.html A friend of mine got one...he said it was basically an OEM pump.

BTW...that's IJ not "one J" ;)

Read this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1092&highlight=maintenance There's a lot more topics in the reference section.

No...don't do it. Carb cleaner destroys the sensor. I just want to ask...simular problems have been caused by doing it.

Figure out what the ticking was?

Ever figure this out?

Yeah...that's what I said in post #5 ;)

Empera got a charcoal cannister ($8) in the for sell section. I've got a nice chrome 2 piece bracket for it...PM me if you're interested.

Ohhh...combine that with diamond paste and you got a mirror in no time! I do like your toys Ian! :bigthumb:

Did you happen to clean the AFM probe (the electronic parts that sticks down in the AFM)? With something like carb cleaner?

No offense taken...it's funny though cause I've personally seen two with the equipment that can do it and the RA meter to prove it. Both were in the 20-30 range.

The Blitx has 80mm (3") piping from the CAT to the muffler...the outlet pipe is 4 1/2"

Not too sure where you got this statistic, but there are several machine shops in my general area (dozens in the Phoenix Metro area) with modern machines...getting to the RA spec is no problem at all. And if you want it really smooth, a machinist with a lapping table can make it like a mirror.

Yeah...I agree. A 3000 rpm stall would be just about right. The ones I've seen fail were past the 350 crank HP point. Doing burnouts with it will hasten the demise ;)

Yep...and you'll vent gas fumes out next to a hot turbo. Can you say "flame on"? If you block the vent line from the tank, pressure builds up...not good either...you would have to drill a vent hole in the gas cap. The charcoal cannister has no effect on gas milage...it's actually part of...