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Yep...learned this one the hard way many years ago. ;)

Yep - that's what it looks like to me. This is why you want to chase your head bolt holes before you install that shiney new ARP hardware ;)

When you put your cams back on there's a specific sequence to tighten down the bearing cap bolts ;)

You don't want to use a spray sealer on a new MHG (starting to sound like a broken record...LOL) New MHG's come pre-coated. If you're using a stock type composite HG, I've seen spray sealer used with good results....however, the TRSM does not mention using one. With either gasket, use the ARP...

Yeah - don't forget the grommets for the valve cover bolts too!

Dude...that's not what I said. I said that NEW MHG's come pre-coated and do not require nor recommend a spray sealer....and that using a spray can destroy the factory coating making it useless. Based on what I've seen (and what I've read at every site I've been to on the subject), I said you...

IJ is right about the HKS stopper...it's probably the best...and it should be for the price tag attached to it ;) Bang for the buck? I like the Cometic. But if you're gonna go for the upper stratosphere on HP numbers, I'd go for the HKS stopper just to protect my investment!

He was trying to quote me in rebuttal...that's word-for-word what I said in post #15 ;)

I donno...I was going off this: Looks like a recommendation to spray it to me.... :dunno: His reply to me included my quote from an earlier post on the 1st few lines.

Blowing a HG twice is not a problem? :aigo: You can do whatever you want man...I'm sure you and your friends are a lot smarter than the engineers that designed the various MHG's. I do know if you read the manufacturer (HKS, Cometic, etc) recommendations/installation instructions, they say...

It's smoking from the exhaust manifold side? I'll bet your valve covers are leaking and dripping oil in your back two spark plug wells and on to the exhaust manifold.

There is no MHG that is plug-and-play...proper prep is the key to installing a MHG. The Cometic is a very good MHG, but here are a few things you need to do: - You check the head for warpage with a machinist straight edge and a set of feeler gauges...0.1mm (0.0039") is the max. The TRSM...

Look at this: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/sr/SR_46.html Just loosen the bolt marked 590 and the tensioning bolt marked 375. You will probably have to move the P/S Res out of the way to get the the 1st bolt. With the pump loose, the belt should come right off.

I picked up a set almost just like these for $280 from Jarco (eBay)...got really lucky :naughty:

Pull your EFI fuse and reset the ECU. Make sure all your intercooler hoses are clamped tight. Run the stock AFM electronics (I think the Lex electronics are the same though). I'm running about 30 psi on the FPR w/ vac line off on the same set-up.

Are you showing any codes?

Check your timing...don't forget to jumper the diag block. The TRSM has more detail.

Yeah...I wanna see that Z when you get it up and running again :naughty:

:withstupi Pulls up a lawn chair...wanna a beer?

Hey Man...I've got one. I can FedEx it out to ya tomorrow 2 day for $9.50. PM me your info and it will be NP...I gotta go to FedEx anyway.