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LOL...that would be an outstanding idea :aigo: And I'd check your oil level if I were you...like right now.

LOL...now that look would be priceless! Especially if the wife was driving :yelrotflm

I'd order moly from ARP and torque to 75 ft/lbs since we have aluminum heads.

I've heard that DSS makes them short...well, here's the proof. Sure am glad I got mine from Jaws :x:

Agreed! The 7M crank is better balanced from the factory...I used a 6M crank (had it fully balanced) and got the same results as IJ.

I'm with DrJonez on this one and just finished a post on the subject. Read this: http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb70228.htm A bit long, but good info on HG failures...the following part on using a sealer is a direct quote: "Another installer error is using a sealer on a coated...

Hey, try the fuel sending unit gasket first...who knows, that might be it and it will save dropping the tank. If you do end up dropping the tank it's really not that difficult, but get someone to help you...it's awkward to move around. Disconnect the pump and sending unit from the hatch access...

Sounds like it's not getting power...check both the pos lead and ground to the guage. If it's fused, (to state the obvious) check that too.

if you're smelling it in the cabin, that would be the most likely culprit...but, gas leaks can be maddening to find ;) Replace it 1st and if it works...you got lucky! It experiences the most stress since it goes to the body where the cap is. I replaced all 4 gaskets when I did my Walbro...

Here's the diagram of the gas tank: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/fi/FI_092.html Note there are 4 places on the top of the tank that can cause what your problem is...all are a rubber type gasket. Unfortunately, they all require you to drop the tank to get to, except perhaps...

Stock pump: ~5 psi at idle warm.

Here's the torque spec for the bolts...note the value (circled in red) for use on aluminum heads (like the 7M). Chase the bolt holes prior to installing the HG & ARP bolts. Since you're using a stock HG, do a re-torque after 2-3 heat cycles. Consider using a spray sealer like Brake Quiet...

Here's the spec sheet for the ARP head studs...note the difference in torque value for moly vs motor oil for lube. Chase the block head bolt holes before you install the studs.

I bought a complete set from NAPA...cover gaskets and grommets.

Disconnect the Vac line from the VSV to the FPR...you should get an increase. If you don't, bypass the VSV with a vac line from the TB source directly to the FPR and see if it decreases. If it does, you have a leak somewhere in the VSV loop or the VSV is stuck closed. The TRSM has a procedure...

Have you had your rear tires balanced? Did this start when you replaced the stovk driveshaft with the DSS single piece AL shaft? Could be it's out of balance as well. Wheel and differential bearings come to mind too.

Yep...all of the above ;) Your EGT's look normal for the speeds. If your radiator is FUBAR, consider getting a larger volume one. The CSF is very good...especially for the $$$ and it's a direct fit. If you have an auto tranny though, you will have to get a tranny cooler.

Look...you can use spray sealer if you want. What you should not do is make it sound like it's the recommended way to do it...that is just flat wrong. Did you read the MHG link I posted? Here's a quote: "Another installer error is using a sealer on a coated composition head gasket. "Some...

Yeah - you're right...it's the idle up valve...had a brain fart.

The '89 has progressive powersteering. Check to make sure the vac line from the accordian hose is hooked up to the vac switch on the P/S pump. It has two nipples, the other runs from to the vac hard line across the top of the lower timing cover. Trace both to make sure they are hooked up and...